Tom Tweed

A little cheaper at ToolTopia: http://www.tooltopia.com/search.aspx?find=C4D600F36H

And don't forget the grease, although you can just spread the leftover from the last application before re-setting the centerlock in a pinch: https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/04302000.html

If you're on the road and need to plug a tire, it's a lot easier to find the leak and plug it if you can jack the car up and spin it rather than driving forward and back a bit at a time. I carry an old 928 jack kit for that. You can find them on Ebay and/or a dismantler for < $100. Google Porsche 928 jack

You could definitely use one of SmokingGTS alignment tools to save your calipers and rotors from dings when putting the wheels on and off.

As far as the procedure, you can watch YouTube videos, but you need to read the manual starting on p. 203 if you're going to mess with mounting wheels yourself.










HTH,
TT

Tom Tweed

If the wheels have been mounted with the proper 443 ft. lbs. of torque and the important last step has been taken of insuring that the spring-loaded center safety locking bolt in the hub has extended flush with the center of the nut, there is no way for them to loosen subsequently. You can pry off your center caps and visually inspect that they are flush if you think this might have been overlooked. See step 16 on p. 206 of the manual posted above.

TT

robgts

I would not worry about losing a wheel. At approximately 500 ftlbs and the safety lock hub I can't see how you would lose a wheel. The only way would be to snap off the hub entirely. Race cars only tighten to about 300fp with an air gun impact wrench. Don't get hung up with all of the directions written by german lawyers "the car must be elevated, you must back off the nut approximately 20 degrees and re-tighten...." blah blah. If you really look at the physics involved with center locks, they are very safe. That's why all race cars (except nascar and other domestic series) use center locks. Where is the greatest force as a wheel rotates...you guessed it...as you move away from the center. The least centrifugal force force is in the center of the wheel. BUT what you trade off is lateral and torsion strength of the hub itself.

Bottom line...don't worry, Be happy and race "the wheels off"

ezinternet

A list I put together for my RS ...

Tools:

(1) Porsche collapsible breaker bar - 997.361.161.00

(2) Torque wrench - Precision Instruments C4D600F - tooltopia
http://www.tooltopia.com/precision-i...s-c4d600f.aspx

(3) Discussion ==> https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...ue-wrench.html

(4) brake pedal holder - http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDi...ookup=LIS21520

(5) Grease - https://www.suncoastparts.com/product/04302000.html

(6) Ed's (SmokinGTS) Delrin centering tool

disden

Thanks for the info. At the track last weekend a car lost a wheel in front of me. Started me thinking about fact that I never check if wheels are tight as did cars with conventional lugs. Makes sense.

Wild Weasel

I did mine for the first time on Monday night, swapping my wheels from left to right to prepare for my next track weekend.

I'd read at least once or twice the opinions about pulling up on the breaker bar or torque wrench rather than pushing down to avoid stress on the suspension.

I did that for the front wheels. After doing that, it became pretty obvious that if I stuck to that procedure I wouldn't be able to get out of bed the next day and if I made it a regular habit then I'd be on the path to permanent back injury.

I did the back ones by pushing down on the bars.

Firstly, it's worth mentioning that the manual says absolutely nothing about this and the pictures show the bar near vertical with the "push" going either forward or back depending on loosening or tightening. I might try that next time but I have a feeling there won't be enough friction between my shoes and the ground to make that work.

Thinking further about the forces involved (and maybe a little to justify my decision regarding self-preservation) I've decided that it doesn't really make much difference no matter how you slice it. You're not pulling down the suspension when you push down on the bar. You're applying torque to the center no matter which way you do it. It's a turning force, not a straight force in any direction. When pulling up or pushing down I didn't get the impression I was putting much stress on the suspension one way or the other.

If someone has some good reason to have a strong opinion on this, I'd love to hear it. In the meantime, I'm satisfied that I am comfortable enough with this procedure to do it again and again going forward.

And I still think the whole bloody system is idiotic for a track car.

I was ridiculously cautious with the pieces to ensure they didn't get any dirt on them as getting grit into the paste and then grinding it into the system seems like a terrible idea. Just one more thing you don't need to worry about with normal reliable lug nuts or bolts.

robgts

astolfor

Is this what you are talking about?

https://store.snapon.com/Geared-Head...--P634900.aspx

your link is not working for me.
TIA

mikex25

Mech33

mikex25

montoya

st600r

Rest easy, ITS not the center lock torqueing that's going to kill you, ITS the wheel HUB failure. My friends 991 at Mid Ohio this weekend CRACKED all the spokes but one on his center locks. Evidently the Porsche wheels are only good for street use if you VALUE your life.

reidry

How many miles on the wheels, how many of those were track miles? Aluminum does not have an infinite fatigue life.

Ryan

GrantG

Which model 991 and which wheels? Would be interested if GT3 forged wheels (occasionally bent, but haven't seen a catastrophic failure posted).