Apex SM-10 vs OEM Cayman R
#1
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Apex SM-10 vs OEM Cayman R
Trying to find a wheel for my 2012 base that has the looks and lightness of the Cayman R wheel. Apex SM-10 looks close and the 18" availability is appealing as my car will be about 20% track and the rest street driving. Any other suggestions for a similar wheel? Plan is to eventually go with the R Suspension setup but looks like I may have to add camber plates if I go with the wider Apex wheel.
#2
Other option would be OZ Alleggerita, 9 spoke, very light. Tirerack quotes something like 18.5lbs front, 20lbs rear, which is about 10% lighter than the Boxster Spyder 19" wheels. The OZ are not forged, so might not be as strong as the Apex. On the flip side they are quite a bit less $, and are made in Italy if you care about that sort of thing.
https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/o-z-...lt-star-silver
https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/o-z-...lt-star-silver
#3
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The OZ is nice and light but the price is actually the same as the Apex. I've also seen a few used 981 and 718 wheels as options. Wheels are a difficult decision.
#4
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You’ve probably seen the Apex fitment guide.
I’ve got the SM-10s in 18x9 and 18x10 on my 987.1 Boxster S. Running 245/40R18 front and 275/40R18 rear with no rubbing issues, though my car is not lowered.
I’ve got the SM-10s in 18x9 and 18x10 on my 987.1 Boxster S. Running 245/40R18 front and 275/40R18 rear with no rubbing issues, though my car is not lowered.
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#9
Three Wheelin'
FWIW, I run 18x9 and 18x10 Apex SM-10 with Nankang 245/40 front and 275/40 in the rear. I've got GT3 control arms in the front with 2.7 degrees of negative camber and about -2.1 in the back.
I get a ton of rubbing in the front, I don't know if it's the tires themselves or my ride height but it's pretty bad. I've worn through both fender liners.
I get a ton of rubbing in the front, I don't know if it's the tires themselves or my ride height but it's pretty bad. I've worn through both fender liners.
#10
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Trying to find a wheel for my 2012 base that has the looks and lightness of the Cayman R wheel. Apex SM-10 looks close and the 18" availability is appealing as my car will be about 20% track and the rest street driving. Any other suggestions for a similar wheel? Plan is to eventually go with the R Suspension setup but looks like I may have to add camber plates if I go with the wider Apex wheel.
Camber plates are useful for tire clearance when you want to run a really wide 245/40-18 like a CR-S or A052 at an alignment those should have for track use or a 255/35-18. Camber plates are going to be one of my next modifications so I can get closer to -3° and still have plenty of clearance.
FWIW, I run 18x9 and 18x10 Apex SM-10 with Nankang 245/40 front and 275/40 in the rear. I've got GT3 control arms in the front with 2.7 degrees of negative camber and about -2.1 in the back.
I get a ton of rubbing in the front, I don't know if it's the tires themselves or my ride height but it's pretty bad. I've worn through both fender liners.
I get a ton of rubbing in the front, I don't know if it's the tires themselves or my ride height but it's pretty bad. I've worn through both fender liners.
Behind the radiator: If you are getting the full -2.7° from the lower control arms and you do not have a way to adjust caster, than that makes sense. As we shim our GT3 LCAs, it brings the wheel and tire assembly forward, causing this to happen (happened to me on my 987). You will need either caster pucks in the LCA or adjustable caster arms to push the wheel and tire back to where it should be at around this camber value.
If you are rubbing the top of the liner, then it could come down to the width of those CR-S (they are quite wide for a 245) and getting all your camber from the LCA. Camber plates would solve this as it would pull the top of the wheel/tire inboard away from the fender's edge instead of what LCA do which is push the wheel and tire assembly outward.
- Brandon
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#11
Three Wheelin'
Different wheel design but the same wheel and tire specs you are likely looking at, 18x9"ET46 and 18x10"ET36 with 245/40-18 and 275/40-18. This is my Cayman R on OEM R struts and springs with GT3 lower control arms front and rear, -2.5° front and -2° rear camber and front caster pucks to push the wheel back in place from the longer LCA's. If you have stock control arms then you do not need to install camber plates to get the fitment to work without rubbing. I ran the same setup on my old .1 S with Nitto NT01's and it did not rub with OEM suspension.
Camber plates are useful for tire clearance when you want to run a really wide 245/40-18 like a CR-S or A052 at an alignment those should have for track use or a 255/35-18. Camber plates are going to be one of my next modifications so I can get closer to -3° and still have plenty of clearance.
First off your car looks great, love the color combo. I don't know where on the liner you are rubbing but I will address both options for you.
Behind the radiator: If you are getting the full -2.7° from the lower control arms and you do not have a way to adjust caster, than that makes sense. As we shim our GT3 LCAs, it brings the wheel and tire assembly forward, causing this to happen (happened to me on my 987). You will need either caster pucks in the LCA or adjustable caster arms to push the wheel and tire back to where it should be at around this camber value.
If you are rubbing the top of the liner, then it could come down to the width of those CR-S (they are quite wide for a 245) and getting all your camber from the LCA. Camber plates would solve this as it would pull the top of the wheel/tire inboard away from the fender's edge instead of what LCA do which is push the wheel and tire assembly outward.
- Brandon
Camber plates are useful for tire clearance when you want to run a really wide 245/40-18 like a CR-S or A052 at an alignment those should have for track use or a 255/35-18. Camber plates are going to be one of my next modifications so I can get closer to -3° and still have plenty of clearance.
First off your car looks great, love the color combo. I don't know where on the liner you are rubbing but I will address both options for you.
Behind the radiator: If you are getting the full -2.7° from the lower control arms and you do not have a way to adjust caster, than that makes sense. As we shim our GT3 LCAs, it brings the wheel and tire assembly forward, causing this to happen (happened to me on my 987). You will need either caster pucks in the LCA or adjustable caster arms to push the wheel and tire back to where it should be at around this camber value.
If you are rubbing the top of the liner, then it could come down to the width of those CR-S (they are quite wide for a 245) and getting all your camber from the LCA. Camber plates would solve this as it would pull the top of the wheel/tire inboard away from the fender's edge instead of what LCA do which is push the wheel and tire assembly outward.
- Brandon
I'm getting rubbing behind the radiator, and no I do not have a way to adjust caster on my arms. That's good information to have, how much caster do you suggest running on a car that is 80% track driven? I measured mine and I think it was around 7.5 degrees.
#12
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Hey Brandon, thanks for replying.
I'm getting rubbing behind the radiator, and no I do not have a way to adjust caster on my arms. That's good information to have, how much caster do you suggest running on a car that is 80% track driven? I measured mine and I think it was around 7.5 degrees.
I'm getting rubbing behind the radiator, and no I do not have a way to adjust caster on my arms. That's good information to have, how much caster do you suggest running on a car that is 80% track driven? I measured mine and I think it was around 7.5 degrees.
- Brandon