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987.2 Spyder - intake & header install - before/after dyno

Old 01-21-2017, 12:07 PM
  #31  
66mustang
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Well then I am sorry for my statement about the size.
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Old 01-21-2017, 12:16 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 66mustang View Post

OP, I would love to hear your car sometime

I am sure we can make that happen. I will PM you to follow up.
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Old 01-22-2017, 02:20 PM
  #33  
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Thanks for the info on the PSE difference, always good to know the specific details and how they are set apart.
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Old 01-25-2017, 11:20 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Marine Blue View Post
Thanks for the info on the PSE difference, always good to know the specific details and how they are set apart.
Just makes your car that much more awesome haha
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Old 01-28-2017, 07:02 PM
  #35  
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I just wanted to stop in here to tell you how perfect your Spyder looks. Usually I'm not a fan of black wheels but the contrast between PCCB / Black / White is perfect...
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Old 01-30-2017, 09:51 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by idk_alex View Post
I just wanted to stop in here to tell you how perfect your Spyder looks. Usually I'm not a fan of black wheels but the contrast between PCCB / Black / White is perfect...
Thanks for the compliments. Looks sharp - drives even sharper

...when it drives...I had a lesson the hard way over the weekend. Weather was nice so what's better than taking the garage queen out for a spin. BUT: Car was entirely unresponsive and utterly dead - windows didn't even pop down to clear the roof when opening the door!

It turned out I had left key in car's ignition while it was parked in garage since the previous weekend. Well - it is a big No No...it drains battery bigtime. And the dead battery is hidden in the fronk...which is battery operated to open - a perfect catch 22!

Well, if not for anything else, it meant that I learned all about the emergency procedures required to breathe life into the car again,

- firstly fix emergency 12V from donor car to the fuse box in P-car. Then fronk can be opened with key remote (but not door latch!).

- secondly, open fronk and install jumper cables which provides the boost of electrons needed to get the starter turning

So, save yourselves for at ton of trouble - don't leave key in ignition!
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Old 02-04-2017, 11:50 PM
  #37  
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Great post and nice write up

Had my 987 Spyder (LWB, short shifter, AC & radio delete) out for a spin earlier today. Man I love this car. This is thing is so good it makes an amateur like me feel like a professional. Its just so fun and easy to drive.
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Old 02-28-2017, 11:10 AM
  #38  
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A few fellow Rennlisters have politely reminded me to provide an update after having lived with the IPD Plenum/GT3 TB, Fabspeed Sport headers, Cobb + custom tune modifications for a few months. Goals were: Prio 1: More sound and only Prio 2: Added WHP/WTQ. So where do we stand?


- Super happy about the sound. I retained the tone of the OEM PSE exhaust but took overall sound volume quite a step up. With PSE 'Off', levels are ductile and fine for normal cruising. PSE 'ON' creates the screaming I was looking for starting a low RPM and building for a loud crescendo. No drone in either mode and still sounds OEM Porsche flat 6. Very pleased overall and met my goal.


- Butt dyno, power, well, added power was secondary ...expensive mods for limited gains, around additional 11% more peak WHP as documented OP. However, the engine feels more torquey from 2,500 RPM and up which adds to the fun factor of being able to better control the car in corners using the throttle - if one is so inclined. I attribute this to the flattened torque curve which makes the car feel more lively (-;


Overall I am very pleased that I took the jump and highly recommend the setup. The WAF is still high but added thrill is available at the push of the PSE button (WAF = Wife Acceptance Factor) (-;
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Old 03-01-2017, 04:59 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Gbboenda View Post
A few fellow Rennlisters have politely reminded me to provide an update after having lived with the IPD Plenum/GT3 TB, Fabspeed Sport headers, Cobb + custom tune modifications for a few months. Goals were: Prio 1: More sound and only Prio 2: Added WHP/WTQ. So where do we stand?


- Super happy about the sound. I retained the tone of the OEM PSE exhaust but took overall sound volume quite a step up. With PSE 'Off', levels are ductile and fine for normal cruising. PSE 'ON' creates the screaming I was looking for starting a low RPM and building for a loud crescendo. No drone in either mode and still sounds OEM Porsche flat 6. Very pleased overall and met my goal.


- Butt dyno, power, well, added power was secondary ...expensive mods for limited gains, around additional 11% more peak WHP as documented OP. However, the engine feels more torquey from 2,500 RPM and up which adds to the fun factor of being able to better control the car in corners using the throttle - if one is so inclined. I attribute this to the flattened torque curve which makes the car feel more lively (-;


Overall I am very pleased that I took the jump and highly recommend the setup. The WAF is still high but added thrill is available at the push of the PSE button (WAF = Wife Acceptance Factor) (-;
What a lovely write up! Thanks very much for this, I am very happy to see that you are enjoying the setup as much as I did. I firmly believe our headers with the factory PSE is the golden ticket setup for sound on our platform. However as much as I preach it, it's nice to see someone else confirm it every now and then haha.

Love that "Wife Acceptance Factor" by the way, I hope you don't mind me using that for the rest of my life
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Old 03-01-2017, 08:15 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Fabspeed Motorsport View Post
Love that "Wife Acceptance Factor" by the way,

Yep, WAF is key to understand,

- WAF > 1 : Smooth sailing
- WAF between 0 - 1 : Trouble ahead
- WAF < 0 : Run and hide...and take your new mods with you

It is OK if Short-Term-WAF dips below 0.2 once in a while but try to stay above 0. However, strive to keep Long-Term-WAF above 0.8 if you want to keep spending on relationship counselling on a minimum

Last edited by Gbboenda; 03-01-2017 at 08:37 PM. Reason: __
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Old 03-02-2017, 03:41 AM
  #41  
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nice. i DO really wonder what longer primaries would do for the torque curve. those primaries seem to be fairly close to stock in length.
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Old 03-02-2017, 02:40 PM
  #42  
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Nice to know.
I'm halfway there with my Cayman R - have the IPD plenum & GT3 throttle body with Cobb tune. Headers go on next month!
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Old 03-06-2017, 10:03 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Gbboenda View Post
Yep, WAF is key to understand,

- WAF > 1 : Smooth sailing
- WAF between 0 - 1 : Trouble ahead
- WAF < 0 : Run and hide...and take your new mods with you

It is OK if Short-Term-WAF dips below 0.2 once in a while but try to stay above 0. However, strive to keep Long-Term-WAF above 0.8 if you want to keep spending on relationship counselling on a minimum
Very well said

Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
nice. i DO really wonder what longer primaries would do for the torque curve. those primaries seem to be fairly close to stock in length.
Its quite the science and it varies for car to car, but on the 987.2 in particular we found a longer primary design to offer a bit more bottom end but sacrificed the top end greatly. A shorter primary tube design was the clear winner for maximum performance potential.

That being said, add the increased backpressure of HJS 200cell cats into the mix and we found that the shorter primary tubes provided maximum low end/mid range with the high flow cats. This is ideal for street use as it targets that 3200-3800rpm performance dip on our cars.

Originally Posted by Dr.Bill View Post
Nice to know.
I'm halfway there with my Cayman R - have the IPD plenum & GT3 throttle body with Cobb tune. Headers go on next month!
Pleasure working with you Bill, I appreciate the business
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Last edited by [email protected]; 03-06-2017 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 03-06-2017, 03:17 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Fabspeed Motorsport View Post
Very well said

That being said, add the increased backpressure of HJS 200cell cats into the mix and we found that the shorter primary tubes provided maximum low end/mid range with the high flow cats. The is ideal for street use as it targets that 3200-3800rpm performance dip on our cars.

I appreciate that info. very good to know. i don't get over 5k as much as i'd like...
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Old 03-08-2017, 02:02 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by FactoryMatt View Post
I appreciate that info. very good to know. i don't get over 5k as much as i'd like...
No problem Matt. Although the Sport Headers are tailored to the low end/mid range performance dip, keep in mind our Catless Race Headers do offer the most performance under the curve by a decent margin. If you are looking for maximum performance overall, cats have got to go
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