2016 Spyder trickle charger
12-08-2016, 12:27 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
2016 Spyder trickle charger
My Ctek with lighter plug attachment will not charge the battery from any of the outlets in the interior of the car. Changing over to the clamp on attachment directly to the battery posts itself works fine. Anyone have a clue why this will not work from an interior source? Swapped out lighter plug attachment same issue. Funny this works with all my other cars but not here
12-08-2016, 12:39 PM
#2
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Others have had similar issues, most notably Phil. See this thread for background:
https://rennlist.com/forums/987-981-...-question.html
The vast majority have no issues using Porsche's charger in the cigarette lighter, but there are exceptions and it unfortunately appears you are one of them.
https://rennlist.com/forums/987-981-...-question.html
The vast majority have no issues using Porsche's charger in the cigarette lighter, but there are exceptions and it unfortunately appears you are one of them.
12-08-2016, 02:43 PM
#3
Just install an exterior pigtail and call it a day. I routed mine to the base of the windshield by the passenger side (completely invisible), and if my battery ever dies, no need to jump the fusebox to open the frunk. Plus no need to leave window or door open, or chew wire with door closed. And 100% reliable
.
.
12-08-2016, 10:16 PM
#6
Both Battery Tender and Optimate make them with SAE connectors, but make sure to buy the 'weatherproof' ones. They're plentiful online; bought mine on eBay. I chose the Optimate since it seals better... along with their longest extension, since I had to route it around the HVAC housing, to be properly secured, and invisible (nowhere where to secure it behind the housing, and I wanted it secured to avoid pulling it or stretching it out). The bulkier connector barely fitted thru the windshield shroud, but went in fine; that hole looks like it was meant to be for exactly that purpose
. And it actually locks in place when pushed down in that crevice, so awesome. I pull it up from the rubber cap's 'loop', as you can see it in my pic.
Finally, a word of caution. The eyelets on the pigtail only fit the battery posts... but you cannot remove the nuts on Porsches. Why is beyond me (all VW group cars are like that). So you have 2 choices. First, cut the posts, like I did, and look for replacement posts. BIG MISTAKE. Nobody makes them. You have to buy the entire cables, which would have cost over $500. Thankfully my daughter's car had an identical posts, and were removable, so put those on the Porsche (for a factory fit), and bought S/S bolts at Lowe's for her car. The second option is to install them on the larger connector bolts, but you'll have to cut the eyelets and install the appropriate terminals. I suggest that approach. Good luck.
. And it actually locks in place when pushed down in that crevice, so awesome. I pull it up from the rubber cap's 'loop', as you can see it in my pic. Finally, a word of caution. The eyelets on the pigtail only fit the battery posts... but you cannot remove the nuts on Porsches. Why is beyond me (all VW group cars are like that). So you have 2 choices. First, cut the posts, like I did, and look for replacement posts. BIG MISTAKE. Nobody makes them. You have to buy the entire cables, which would have cost over $500. Thankfully my daughter's car had an identical posts, and were removable, so put those on the Porsche (for a factory fit), and bought S/S bolts at Lowe's for her car. The second option is to install them on the larger connector bolts, but you'll have to cut the eyelets and install the appropriate terminals. I suggest that approach
. Good luck.
12-09-2016, 11:00 AM
#7
Race Car
Others have had similar issues, most notably Phil. See this thread for background:
https://rennlist.com/forums/987-981-...-question.html
The vast majority have no issues using Porsche's charger in the cigarette lighter, but there are exceptions and it unfortunately appears you are one of them.
https://rennlist.com/forums/987-981-...-question.html
The vast majority have no issues using Porsche's charger in the cigarette lighter, but there are exceptions and it unfortunately appears you are one of them.
Trending Topics
12-09-2016, 11:06 AM
#8
Race Car
Both Battery Tender and Optimate make them with SAE connectors, but make sure to buy the 'weatherproof' ones. They're plentiful online; bought mine on eBay. I chose the Optimate since it seals better... along with their longest extension, since I had to route it around the HVAC housing, to be properly secured, and invisible (nowhere where to secure it behind the housing, and I wanted it secured to avoid pulling it or stretching it out). The bulkier connector barely fitted thru the windshield shroud, but went in fine; that hole looks like it was meant to be for exactly that purpose. And it actually locks in place when pushed down in that crevice, so awesome. I pull it up from the rubber cap's 'loop', as you can see it in my pic.
Finally, a word of caution. The eyelets on the pigtail only fit the battery posts... but you cannot remove the nuts on Porsches. Why is beyond me (all VW group cars are like that). So you have 2 choices. First, cut the posts, like I did, and look for replacement posts. BIG MISTAKE. Nobody makes them. You have to buy the entire cables, which would have cost over $500. Thankfully my daughter's car had an identical posts, and were removable, so put those on the Porsche (for a factory fit), and bought S/S bolts at Lowe's for her car. The second option is to install them on the larger connector bolts, but you'll have to cut the eyelets and install the appropriate terminals. I suggest that approach. Good luck.
. And it actually locks in place when pushed down in that crevice, so awesome. I pull it up from the rubber cap's 'loop', as you can see it in my pic. Finally, a word of caution. The eyelets on the pigtail only fit the battery posts... but you cannot remove the nuts on Porsches. Why is beyond me (all VW group cars are like that). So you have 2 choices. First, cut the posts, like I did, and look for replacement posts. BIG MISTAKE. Nobody makes them. You have to buy the entire cables, which would have cost over $500. Thankfully my daughter's car had an identical posts, and were removable, so put those on the Porsche (for a factory fit), and bought S/S bolts at Lowe's for her car. The second option is to install them on the larger connector bolts, but you'll have to cut the eyelets and install the appropriate terminals. I suggest that approach
. Good luck.
12-09-2016, 12:26 PM
#9
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Both Battery Tender and Optimate make them with SAE connectors, but make sure to buy the 'weatherproof' ones. They're plentiful online; bought mine on eBay. I chose the Optimate since it seals better... along with their longest extension, since I had to route it around the HVAC housing, to be properly secured, and invisible (nowhere where to secure it behind the housing, and I wanted it secured to avoid pulling it or stretching it out). The bulkier connector barely fitted thru the windshield shroud, but went in fine; that hole looks like it was meant to be for exactly that purpose. And it actually locks in place when pushed down in that crevice, so awesome. I pull it up from the rubber cap's 'loop', as you can see it in my pic.
Finally, a word of caution. The eyelets on the pigtail only fit the battery posts... but you cannot remove the nuts on Porsches. Why is beyond me (all VW group cars are like that). So you have 2 choices. First, cut the posts, like I did, and look for replacement posts. BIG MISTAKE. Nobody makes them. You have to buy the entire cables, which would have cost over $500. Thankfully my daughter's car had an identical posts, and were removable, so put those on the Porsche (for a factory fit), and bought S/S bolts at Lowe's for her car. The second option is to install them on the larger connector bolts, but you'll have to cut the eyelets and install the appropriate terminals. I suggest that approach. Good luck.
. And it actually locks in place when pushed down in that crevice, so awesome. I pull it up from the rubber cap's 'loop', as you can see it in my pic. Finally, a word of caution. The eyelets on the pigtail only fit the battery posts... but you cannot remove the nuts on Porsches. Why is beyond me (all VW group cars are like that). So you have 2 choices. First, cut the posts, like I did, and look for replacement posts. BIG MISTAKE. Nobody makes them. You have to buy the entire cables, which would have cost over $500. Thankfully my daughter's car had an identical posts, and were removable, so put those on the Porsche (for a factory fit), and bought S/S bolts at Lowe's for her car. The second option is to install them on the larger connector bolts, but you'll have to cut the eyelets and install the appropriate terminals. I suggest that approach
. Good luck.
12-09-2016, 04:05 PM
#10
.
12-09-2016, 05:12 PM
#11
Banned
Smart chargers are designed to be hooked directly to the battery, not a chassis ground. You're not jumping it, or charging it at a high amperage rate, which would necessitate a chassis ground indeed. The difference might be small enough to ignore, but I've never had any issues doing it the recommended way, so will continue to do it that way.
.From the CTEK manual (since the OP and Phil both are using CTEK):
"16. FOLLOW THESE STEPS WHEN BATTERY
IS INSTALLED IN VEHICLE. A SPARK
NEAR BATTERY MAY CAUSE BATTERY EXPLOSION. TO REDUCE RISK OF A SPARK NEAR BATTERY:
4 • US
a) Position AC and DC cords to reduce risk of damage by hood, door or moving engine part.
b) Stay clear of fan blades, belts, pulleys, and other parts than can cause injury to persons.
c) Check polarity of battery posts. POSITIVE (POS, P, +) battery post usually has larger diameter than NEGATIVE (NEG, N, -) post.
d) Determine which post of battery is grounded (connected) to the chassis. If nega- tive post is grounded to the chassis (as in most vehicles) see (e). If positive post is grounded to the chassis, see (f).
e) For Negative-grounded vehicle, connect POSITIVE (RED) clip from battery charger to POSITIVE (POS, P, +) ungrounded post of battery. Connect NEGATIVE (BLACK) clip to vehicle chassis or engine block away from battery. Do not connect clip to carburetor, fuel lines, or sheet-metal body parts. Connect to a heavy gage metal part of the frame or engine block.
Charger connection.
1. Connect positive charger clip (red) to positive battery terminal.
2. Connect negative charger clip (black) to a good metal engine ground away from
the battery. Do no connect clip to fuel lines or sheet-metal body parts.
3. Connect the AC cord to the socket. The red alarm indication light will indicate
a battery which is connected to reverse polarity."
12-09-2016, 05:28 PM
#12
Race Car
Bob, you are correct. The other issue is that the post on the driver's side of the battery is designed not to accept a standard nut. It took my tech about 2 minutes to connect the pigtail to the ground on the chassis, nearly adjacent to the battery - and it works fine. Before I knew this, I did connect the alligator clips to both battery posts, and that worked fine as well. However, CTEK makes it clear that although the chance of an explosion is miniscule if connecting either the alligator clips or the pigtails directly to both poles of the battery, it's not recommended. I did the configuration described simply due to the nut not fitting over the negative pole of the battery on the driver's side. As noted, it charges fine as configured.
12-09-2016, 05:41 PM
#13
Banned
I do agree that the chance of an explosion is miniscule. I was just responding to the incorrect point made and the tone.
12-09-2016, 09:01 PM
#15
Tone? A little sensitive here. First of all, there's basically zero chance of an explosion due to negative cable connection choice, if battery is not being charged, FYI. Explosions can occur during charging (especially high current) without proper ventilation, not when hooking them up (assuming proper hook-up, of course). Chassis ground is to avoid electronic component damage with high-current. And as I said, the correct way to jump-start a dead battery, and to charge it with more than 5A of current. A pigtail for a <=5A charger is best if installed directly to the battery, and what most smart chargers recommend (even on motorcycles), but if you're afraid and your system works, all power to you. The reason is electronics are so sensitive that the extra resistance of chassis ground can lead to overcharging your battery, but it's less of an issue on a larger car battery, so you should be safe. Don't want this to be a pissing contest, especially with a sensitive guy, so ignored and out of this thread. Have a great weekend folks.