986 to 987 upgrade; need advice
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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986 to 987 upgrade; need advice
So I’m thinking of upgrading my 896 to a 987. I’m approaching retirement and want to get something with 60-70k miles around the $15-17,000 range. I’ve seen several good ones but have not begun to do any real research yet. I’m struggling with the idea of having to do the same kind of work on a 987 that I have had to do on my 986. Perhaps I just need to keep my 986. What do you think?
I did a complete financial analysis on my personal history of my car excluding gas, cleaning, and insurance. It is scary to say the least. If I show it to my wife I’m DEAD! Anyway, can anyone give me some feedback on this? Is this normal, above or below what you would expect.
Here is a short history (4 years) of my 986 ownership. It may prove interesting and helpful if you are considering a 986 in your future. I have a MY2000 986 base, Ocean Blue Metallic with grey interior. It had 86000 miles when I purchased it. I have owned it for 4 years and I have put on an additional 47,000. It sits at 133000 right now. It is a mix of around town and highway. Some all out on winding canyon roads. It is my daily driver rain or shine and I usually take it out about 1-2 weekends a month to carve canyons in the mountains near Sacramento where I live. I would consider myself a very spirited driver. That’s why I bought a Boxster. I bought it in 2012 off Craig’s list for 10,500 from the 2nd owner. A fair deal at the time. The records show an engine replacement in 2004 by the original dealer at 46,000 miles with the 1st owner. I figured the IMS blew out, but not certain. I considered the engine replacement a good deal when I purchased it as the IMS issue had probably been dealt with. When I bought it, it seemed like near perfect shape. Very clean, no leaks, and ding free. The driver’s seat was showing wear, but the interior was otherwise near perfect. I flew to Southern California, drove the car, had a PPI done, it checked out and I drove it home. It had slotted and drilled rotors but original brakes. Unbelievably I have not had to change brake pads in 47k miles and they are still good. It needed an alignment and front tires which I replaced immediately. It came with a nice OEM car cover, plastic wind screen, but no headrest windscreens. It needed an alignment and front tires immediately. I received some maintenance documentation but not complete. Since I purchased the car I have completed all regularly scheduled maintenance, including belts and filters. I change the oil (Mobil 1 synthetic 5w40) and filter every 5000 miles. Early on I was very intimidated by working on a Porsche and had to go to the shop. Now I am much more confident and seem to be able to diagnose and fix almost anything. Furthermore, I now have a part time job working at a NAPA parts store so I can get parts very cheap.
So here’s my story:
1st year of ownership; 86000-98000 miles (12K miles)
• I-phone cable; rear speakers, magnetic oil, drain plug, front tires, alignment, RF wheel bearing, spark plugs, Battery,
• Total cost Parts; $1335.00; Labor; $673.00
2nd year of ownership; 98000-111000 (11K miles)
• Rear trunk shocks, license plate mounting bracket, rear tires and alignment, water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt, (did the work myself)
• air/oil separator, alternator, complete clutch failure, (replaced clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, clutch fork, dual mass flywheel, IMS bearing) Outside shop did all work
• Total cost Parts; $4502.48; Labor; $1473.14
3rd year of ownership; 111000-121000 (10K miles)
• Convertible top replacement; parking brake switch, purge valve, fender liner, several intermittent problems with temp gauge, erratic idle, parking brake switch
• Total cost Parts; $1176.38; Labor; $1430.84
4th year of ownership; 121000-132000 (11K miles)
• O2 sensor, both door latches, front and rear tires and alignment, used seats. Outside shop did the work, I installed the seats.
• Total cost Parts; $3121.83; Labor; $969.35
5th year of ownership; 132000-133000 (1K miles)
• Under body panels replaced, dip stick tube; I did the work.
• Total cost Parts; $596.52; Labor; $00.00
I did a complete financial analysis on my personal history of my car excluding gas, cleaning, and insurance. It is scary to say the least. If I show it to my wife I’m DEAD! Anyway, can anyone give me some feedback on this? Is this normal, above or below what you would expect.
Here is a short history (4 years) of my 986 ownership. It may prove interesting and helpful if you are considering a 986 in your future. I have a MY2000 986 base, Ocean Blue Metallic with grey interior. It had 86000 miles when I purchased it. I have owned it for 4 years and I have put on an additional 47,000. It sits at 133000 right now. It is a mix of around town and highway. Some all out on winding canyon roads. It is my daily driver rain or shine and I usually take it out about 1-2 weekends a month to carve canyons in the mountains near Sacramento where I live. I would consider myself a very spirited driver. That’s why I bought a Boxster. I bought it in 2012 off Craig’s list for 10,500 from the 2nd owner. A fair deal at the time. The records show an engine replacement in 2004 by the original dealer at 46,000 miles with the 1st owner. I figured the IMS blew out, but not certain. I considered the engine replacement a good deal when I purchased it as the IMS issue had probably been dealt with. When I bought it, it seemed like near perfect shape. Very clean, no leaks, and ding free. The driver’s seat was showing wear, but the interior was otherwise near perfect. I flew to Southern California, drove the car, had a PPI done, it checked out and I drove it home. It had slotted and drilled rotors but original brakes. Unbelievably I have not had to change brake pads in 47k miles and they are still good. It needed an alignment and front tires which I replaced immediately. It came with a nice OEM car cover, plastic wind screen, but no headrest windscreens. It needed an alignment and front tires immediately. I received some maintenance documentation but not complete. Since I purchased the car I have completed all regularly scheduled maintenance, including belts and filters. I change the oil (Mobil 1 synthetic 5w40) and filter every 5000 miles. Early on I was very intimidated by working on a Porsche and had to go to the shop. Now I am much more confident and seem to be able to diagnose and fix almost anything. Furthermore, I now have a part time job working at a NAPA parts store so I can get parts very cheap.
So here’s my story:
1st year of ownership; 86000-98000 miles (12K miles)
• I-phone cable; rear speakers, magnetic oil, drain plug, front tires, alignment, RF wheel bearing, spark plugs, Battery,
• Total cost Parts; $1335.00; Labor; $673.00
2nd year of ownership; 98000-111000 (11K miles)
• Rear trunk shocks, license plate mounting bracket, rear tires and alignment, water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt, (did the work myself)
• air/oil separator, alternator, complete clutch failure, (replaced clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing, clutch fork, dual mass flywheel, IMS bearing) Outside shop did all work
• Total cost Parts; $4502.48; Labor; $1473.14
3rd year of ownership; 111000-121000 (10K miles)
• Convertible top replacement; parking brake switch, purge valve, fender liner, several intermittent problems with temp gauge, erratic idle, parking brake switch
• Total cost Parts; $1176.38; Labor; $1430.84
4th year of ownership; 121000-132000 (11K miles)
• O2 sensor, both door latches, front and rear tires and alignment, used seats. Outside shop did the work, I installed the seats.
• Total cost Parts; $3121.83; Labor; $969.35
5th year of ownership; 132000-133000 (1K miles)
• Under body panels replaced, dip stick tube; I did the work.
• Total cost Parts; $596.52; Labor; $00.00
#2
Rennlist Member
Hi, Pastor. I can't say anything about 986 ownership, but I have owned a 2005 987 S since 2007, and the odometer just reached 90,000 miles. I have owned and did most work on 914, 944, and 911 models I owned before, and the Boxster has been the least troublesome. I bought it CPO, and had the RMS replaced while still under warranty. I paid the high fees for the required 40k, 60k, and 80k at the dealer, and did additional oil changes myself, along with brake fluid changes and a recent complete brake job with new pads and disks. The surprise problems were little things like a convertible top bracket ball joint.
BTW, this car will be for sale soon. I have ordered a new 991 to celebrate my retirement and relocation.
BTW, this car will be for sale soon. I have ordered a new 991 to celebrate my retirement and relocation.
#3
Rennlist Member
Most of that work is what I would call sorting. Any used car, unless you buy an exceptional one from an enthusiast, will require some sorting. In this case it's a "devil you know" scenario, because any new car will be the purchase price plus the sorting price. I've owned multiple 986s and 987s, and while I do prefer the 987 styling they are really not superior cars in my opinion. I could easily list pros/cons for each. In this case I think you would be way better off sticking with your 986, unless you just have a serious itch for something new.
#5
Rennlist Member
Ditto all the comments above. A sorted car is just that, sorted. Doesn't mean you won't get a surprise, but the likelihood drops off pretty dramatically. None of these cars is particularly cheap to run over time.
That said, your experience puts you in a superior position to evaluate. You know the cars, you have deep experience in maintaining them, and know that none of the options is without risk. Will your current ride meet your needs well into the future or will it fall short? If it will fall short, then you're kinda forced to look at options.
If the option is a good used 987, they are wonderful cars (I'm a little biased). But, the path through ownership will likely be similar to your experience with the 986... sorting, maintenance, etc. That's been my experience with my 944, my 968, and now this 987S. They all need (or should get) some 'sorting'. Heck, their old cars, right?!
By example, I found a perfect 987S, but I still dropped an IMS upgrade, RMS, WaterPump, etc. into it, mostly as PM. No free ride there, unfortunately.
Hope this helps.
Dave
That said, your experience puts you in a superior position to evaluate. You know the cars, you have deep experience in maintaining them, and know that none of the options is without risk. Will your current ride meet your needs well into the future or will it fall short? If it will fall short, then you're kinda forced to look at options.
If the option is a good used 987, they are wonderful cars (I'm a little biased). But, the path through ownership will likely be similar to your experience with the 986... sorting, maintenance, etc. That's been my experience with my 944, my 968, and now this 987S. They all need (or should get) some 'sorting'. Heck, their old cars, right?!
By example, I found a perfect 987S, but I still dropped an IMS upgrade, RMS, WaterPump, etc. into it, mostly as PM. No free ride there, unfortunately.
Hope this helps.
Dave