Battery Charger Connector Question
#1
Battery Charger Connector Question
I have a new CTEK MUS 4.3 charger and plan to connect the pigtails to the battery. Problem is that I purchased the 8mm pigtail that fits over the bolts (angled up from the battery connector), but cannot for the life of me find a hex nut that will secure the pigtail in place. The 8mm nut is too large, and 6mm too small. Seems like I need a 7mm nut with a thin thread to fit, but can't find it anywhere. Any suggestions?
#2
When I did my pigtails I cut out a small portion of the connector to slide it on to the main bolt so instead of connecting it on the end I slipped it into the middle. It requires you to loosen the main bolt just enough fit the pigtail in between.
The following users liked this post:
981KMAN (01-04-2020)
#3
#4
#5
So you cut the o-ring on the pigtail, loosen the nut slightly and separate the pigtail to fit between the nut and the main bolt, then simply tighten the nut down to ensure solid contact? If I can't find a nut to screw down atop the main bolt, that's what I'll do. Thanks. Good tip.
#7
I thought of doing what Marine Blue did, and the OCD in me decided to do it right, but I regretted it. Since Porsche deforms the end of the battery posts, you can't remove the nuts to install the pigtail the right way. So I cut the bolts, but found out later they're only sold as part of the harness, so several hundred each. Anyway, one of my other vehicles have identical posts so I call to order them, and same crap: only the entire harness. Oh well. I ended up removing the posts from the other car and bought S/S ones from Lowe's for it, so the Porsche looks OEM but now with removable nuts (like most other cars), and pigtail was installed without being modified (perfect fit). And yes, I used the waterproof one, which seals a lot better than the Battery Tender one.
If I was to do it again, I'd much prefer cutting and splicing a proper round (larger) terminal for the larger bolts upstream of the battery terminals, than cutting it, since it could come loose. But either way is fine, I guess. I routed it around the airbox, secured in several places, and thru the windshield base at the passenger side, thru a perfectly-sized opening there (also visible in the pic below). It securely pushes against the very edge completely out of sight (pic attached). As a final comment, I much prefer the Optimate6 charger than the CTEK Mus4.3 (have both), and the pigtail is the much common SAE type (like Battery Tenders), and not the larger and proprietary CTEK one. But to each his own. Hope this helps.
If I was to do it again, I'd much prefer cutting and splicing a proper round (larger) terminal for the larger bolts upstream of the battery terminals, than cutting it, since it could come loose. But either way is fine, I guess. I routed it around the airbox, secured in several places, and thru the windshield base at the passenger side, thru a perfectly-sized opening there (also visible in the pic below). It securely pushes against the very edge completely out of sight (pic attached). As a final comment, I much prefer the Optimate6 charger than the CTEK Mus4.3 (have both), and the pigtail is the much common SAE type (like Battery Tenders), and not the larger and proprietary CTEK one. But to each his own. Hope this helps.
Trending Topics
#8
And now for the obvious question....wouldn't it have been easier to use a connector that fits into the cigarette lighter (of course, assuming the cigarette lighter is "live" without turning the ignition on)?
#9
That's the problem. The cigarette lighter it the 12v connectors in the console and the passenger well lose power after 10-15 minutes. I've tried everything. My old 996 4S charged beautifully using that method. Not the Boxster. The option I'll likely use is to simply charge it using my CTEK charger and the alligator clips on the battery itself. Not as clean as using pigtails, but I just can't secure them.
#10
Not for every Boxster...my 2016 Spyder and 2011 Spyder never have had an issue with using the cigarette lighter....we could start a poll...I'm betting most people do not have an issue.
#11
That's the problem. The cigarette lighter it the 12v connectors in the console and the passenger well lose power after 10-15 minutes. I've tried everything. My old 996 4S charged beautifully using that method. Not the Boxster. The option I'll likely use is to simply charge it using my CTEK charger and the alligator clips on the battery itself. Not as clean as using pigtails, but I just can't secure them.
Dealer is Paul Miller Porsche in NJ. The lead tech there knew exactly what to do.
#12
Very good info to know - I will contact my dealership and see if they can replicate it for my car. Thanks.
#13
That's the way Porsche chargers (a rebadged CTEK) connect, but I don't like leaving a window or door open for that. Or worse, eventually messing up the door's weatherstripping if you close it over the cable. It shouldn't be an issue installing a pigtail by modifying it, and much cleaner and useful than any other alternative. PLUS if you ever face a dead battery, with an external pigtail you can open the car and frunk in seconds. Otherwise it's a PITA to mechanically open the door, and then search the manual to learn how to 'jump' the fuse box to be able to open the frunk to get to the battery. Not to mention the risk of causing a short circuit with so cramped of a space. Something to think about. He he.
#14
The cable is really so thin there is little to no chance of harming the weatherstripping if you close the door over the cable. Never had an issue on my 987 BS after doing this for over 8 years and don't expect it to be any different on this Spyder.
#15
That's the way Porsche chargers (a rebadged CTEK) connect, but I don't like leaving a window or door open for that. Or worse, eventually messing up the door's weatherstripping if you close it over the cable. It shouldn't be an issue installing a pigtail by modifying it, and much cleaner and useful than any other alternative. PLUS if you ever face a dead battery, with an external pigtail you can open the car and frunk in seconds. Otherwise it's a PITA to mechanically open the door, and then search the manual to learn how to 'jump' the fuse box to be able to open the frunk to get to the battery. Not to mention the risk of causing a short circuit with so cramped of a space. Something to think about. He he.
I think your points are valid. However, I keep the car in my locked garage, lock the car's doors, and keep one window open maybe 1/4 to 1/2 inch to pass through the "Battery Tender" cord to the cigarette lighter. I can't think of anything easier, and I don't feel that I've sacrificed the security of the car. I've been doing this for several years and haven't had any problems. Knock on wood!