Boxster S 987.1 Won't Start - Does not seem to recognize key is in?
Usually over in the 997 Turbo Forums..But my wife's Boxster S has presented a strange issue I am hoping the experts on this forum can assist with....
So car is tucked away for winter, but I keep it on a maintainer in a warm garage and start it and move it every few weeks or so...Last time was about 3 weeks ago...started it, backed it out, let it run for a bit...revved it, pulled it in and parked and put the cover and maintainer back on. Went to start it today and NOTHING....When I put the key in the ignition I do not here the normal clicking and engagement of the dash. Tried the other key..NOTHING...changed key battery...NOTHING....Used key to pop frunk and trunk and worked fine...radio on, all lights on...opened top latch and windows rolled down partially as expected.... Hooked up my Durametric pro cable and since it does not know it is on...the cable is not live. Checked the fuses in the driver rear trunk of the car and the connections...all looked good. Checked all the fuses in the front panel...all look good. Disconnected battery and shorted Pos & neg for 10 minutes (Porsche mechanic taight me that....to discharge all the modules/memory)....Reconnected....NOTHING. Put a charger on with digital readout....says 13.2 voltss and 95%+ charge..Tried jumping it...NOTHING. IT IS DEAD??? I have read about the ignition barrell and/or immobilizer, but not sure where or how to test that, and not looking to start replacing parts guessing if possible. Also, I think the keys have to be recoded with PIWIS if I change the ignition switch... So any ideas will be appreciated! I am at a loss and cannot even diagnose the issue with no live OBDII...I also jiggled the key and tapped etc on the cyclinder but never recognized it...Also ensured the clutch switch under the dash was seemingly working???confused.gifmad.gif Thanks in advance! |
Two words: Arctic Vortex. The poor thing is afraid you'll take it out in the freezing cold.
Be sure you have the battery connected properly. That is the connections are nice and tight. Be sure the other ends of the battery leads are secure. Techs have told me to just loosen the bolts and move the connection a bit then snug the bolt down to remove some corrosion that can interfere with the electrical power flowing. Long shot the bad battery connections can be the cause but you have to be sure they are not. Last but not least… 3 weeks parked up? Check for mice sign/damage in the car. |
Originally Posted by Macster
(Post 11044601)
Two words: Arctic Vortex. The poor thing is afraid you'll take it out in the freezing cold.
Be sure you have the battery connected properly. That is the connections are nice and tight. Be sure the other ends of the battery leads are secure. Techs have told me to just loosen the bolts and move the connection a bit then snug the bolt down to remove some corrosion that can interfere with the electrical power flowing. Long shot the bad battery connections can be the cause but you have to be sure they are not. Last but not least… 3 weeks parked up? Check for mice sign/damage in the car. Thanks....And you are right..maybe when it warm sup it will start...Like Herbis the Love Bug...:) DC |
Almost sounds like it is in sleep mode.
Lock it. Activate the alarm. Unlock with key and within 30 seconds insert key into ignition and turn to first position. Does it wake up? |
Originally Posted by LexVan
(Post 11044680)
Almost sounds like it is in sleep mode.
Lock it. Activate the alarm. Unlock with key and within 30 seconds insert key into ignition and turn to first position. Does it wake up? I will give it a shot today to be sure, but think I went through that..We'll see! Thanks Again, DC |
Originally Posted by therock88
(Post 11045006)
Hi...I think I tried that, but will check again. Thanks for the suggestion. Are you suggesting lock it with the remote button, then unlock with key in door, then within 30 seconds try to start?
I will give it a shot today to be sure, but think I went through that..We'll see! Thanks Again, DC Tip or manual? Are you sure the clutch microswitch is working properly? |
Originally Posted by LexVan
(Post 11045027)
Yes. But if the car "sees" the remote, and recognizes it, it's not likely in sleep mode, but worth a shot.
Tip or manual? Are you sure the clutch microswitch is working properly? Too bad I cannot get any recognition or I could use my Durametric Pro to check coding even...but the dash just goes off after the usual delay, and acts like no key is present?? I am thinking maybe the immobilizer or ignition barrell unfortunately...or some hidden known defect :) May end up having to flat bed it an hour away to the nearest dealer :icon501: |
Possibly the aerial around the ign barrel which senses the key. This is common on VAG cars and sometimes is just a bad connection at the micro plug
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Its the steering lock. Had the same on one of our race cars. Usually a swift bonk under the steering wheel will fix it. Did you hear the "shuuuc" of the the lock disengaging when you put the key in and turn? They stick all the time. New ones are about $200 and requires a trip trip the dealer to have married to the rest of the security system. Don't buy a used one they are a write only one time part, don't ask how I know that :(
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Follow up to help others perhaps..
OK...I had time today so.... I went through every single fuse in all locations and they were all good. NOTHING Different I took the back end apart and got to the DME and disconnected every plug....waited and connected again. NOTHING Different...Still would not see the key. I jacked around with the key(s), switched ignition on and off, banged the steering wheel, banged the lock cyclinder...NOTHING. I decided to remove the seat, and pull out the immobilizer Part# 997.618.260.04 for those interested... I umplugged it and took it apart and just blew on it and cleaned it...put it back together and reconnected it....and BINGO...Car started right up...recognized the key and all was good!. I connected my Durametric Pro cable... read out all the faults, created a log file and cleaered everything...Also went through the coding feature and made certain all settings looked correct and changed a few...then reset the DME with the tool....Have started and stopped it a dozen times and no issues. When it warms up out, I may take it to the dealer and have a new module installed so my wife is not left stranded....I will let them do it, as I think they have to code the keys and I do not see that function in the Durametric coding?? Anyway....I wiped it down and put it away...Will likely start it more often now to hopefully avoid this drama again :) Thanks to all those that had suggestions...and even those that read it and wished they did :) I attached a couple of photos just for interest in what they look like etc.... Hope this helps! DC |
holy crap, dc, quite a trial just to park it, good info though... Donn
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Originally Posted by blue44
(Post 11046267)
holy crap, dc, quite a trial just to park it, good info though... Donn
DC |
So what is an immobilizer, what is its function ?
What is a good source for the Durametric Pro ? |
Originally Posted by perretar
(Post 11050402)
So what is an immobilizer, what is its function ?
What is a good source for the Durametric Pro ? Buy a Durametiurc right from their web site. |
Originally Posted by perretar
(Post 11050402)
So what is an immobilizer, what is its function ?
What is a good source for the Durametric Pro ? |
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