Any way to make the car's oil warm up quicker?
#16
You're likely talking about 2 very different things here. Your last car took "5 minutes" because you were looking at WATER/coolant temperature, not oil temp as in the 981. Oil temperature ALWAYS lags behind water temp (up or down). Also, Porsches carry a lot of oil (8+ quarts) vs. 4-5 quarts in many other cars. More oil means longer to warm up.
Next time, observe your water and oil temps simultaneously. You'll see that oil temp comes up slower EVEN WITH the new thermal management of 981/991 (brings things up to temp quicker and keep it hotter than 987/997).
Unfortunately in your scenario where it's your daily driver and you go 2-10 miles at a time, your block and oil won't reach operating temps unless the car had recently been driven (already warm). Your call as to whether to punch the gas and go higher RPM. I wouldn't though.
Again, you're talking about water/coolant temperature. Yes, your 986's gauge says 175-180 but it's water temp it's talking about. Your oil temp will be much lower - depends on many factors but likely less than 150 (can be far lower than 150). 986 and 987 have ONLY water temp gauges. 981 has both water and oil temp (and oil pressure).
Next time, observe your water and oil temps simultaneously. You'll see that oil temp comes up slower EVEN WITH the new thermal management of 981/991 (brings things up to temp quicker and keep it hotter than 987/997).
Unfortunately in your scenario where it's your daily driver and you go 2-10 miles at a time, your block and oil won't reach operating temps unless the car had recently been driven (already warm). Your call as to whether to punch the gas and go higher RPM. I wouldn't though.
Mine's usually up to temp (over 180F) with just 5-10 minutes of idling, isn't yours? I do this extremely frequently at autocrosses when my car's been sitting for 4+ hours and gotten stone cold but I only have a few minutes to get it back up to temperature before my turn to run (and babying it during competition is not an option).
#17
Drifting
Neither oil nor water temps really matter in and of themselves; they're just tools to help you see what the engine is doing. What really matters is that the engine block and pistons are at operating temperature, and thus have achieved adequate thermal expansion to push the engine to full power. If your water temp is up, you've done that. If your oil was properly selected for your climate, it should be protecting your engine from the moment the engine starts, no matter the temp.
#18
You're likely talking about 2 very different things here. Your last car took "5 minutes" because you were looking at WATER/coolant temperature, not oil temp as in the 981. Oil temperature ALWAYS lags behind water temp (up or down). Also, Porsches carry a lot of oil (8+ quarts) vs. 4-5 quarts in many other cars. More oil means longer to warm up.
Next time, observe your water and oil temps simultaneously. You'll see that oil temp comes up slower EVEN WITH the new thermal management of 981/991 (brings things up to temp quicker and keep it hotter than 987/997).
Unfortunately in your scenario where it's your daily driver and you go 2-10 miles at a time, your block and oil won't reach operating temps unless the car had recently been driven (already warm). Your call as to whether to punch the gas and go higher RPM. I wouldn't though.
Again, you're talking about water/coolant temperature. Yes, your 986's gauge says 175-180 but it's water temp it's talking about. Your oil temp will be much lower - depends on many factors but likely less than 150 (can be far lower than 150). 986 and 987 have ONLY water temp gauges. 981 has both water and oil temp (and oil pressure).
Next time, observe your water and oil temps simultaneously. You'll see that oil temp comes up slower EVEN WITH the new thermal management of 981/991 (brings things up to temp quicker and keep it hotter than 987/997).
Unfortunately in your scenario where it's your daily driver and you go 2-10 miles at a time, your block and oil won't reach operating temps unless the car had recently been driven (already warm). Your call as to whether to punch the gas and go higher RPM. I wouldn't though.
Again, you're talking about water/coolant temperature. Yes, your 986's gauge says 175-180 but it's water temp it's talking about. Your oil temp will be much lower - depends on many factors but likely less than 150 (can be far lower than 150). 986 and 987 have ONLY water temp gauges. 981 has both water and oil temp (and oil pressure).
My Jeep was a 3.6L and took 5 quarts as opposed to my Boxster's 2.7L's 8 quarts, but would that really make that much of a difference for warm up time?
#19
Basic Sponsor
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It makes 105psi of oil pressure on the neighborhood freeway on-ramp at full boogie. She's protected, fear not!
#20
Race Director
Good point. Yes, on my Jeep it was coolant I was looking at. But you know what, I had that Jeep for almost 5 years (bought it new with 7 miles on it) and didn't have one single mechanical problem with it whatsoever and during those 5 years I did nothing except change the oil every 5,000 miles. I only had 25K miles on it when I sold it (I only drive about 5k miles/year), but I would redline it as soon as the coolant gauge needle got the center position and never had a single problem with it over 5 years of ownership. Perhaps that's telling. And these Boxer engines are supposed to be the epitome of durable so I don't see any reason my 981 couldn't handle it just as well.
My Jeep was a 3.6L and took 5 quarts as opposed to my Boxster's 2.7L's 8 quarts, but would that really make that much of a difference for warm up time?
My Jeep was a 3.6L and took 5 quarts as opposed to my Boxster's 2.7L's 8 quarts, but would that really make that much of a difference for warm up time?
The engine contains over 8 quarts of oil. Its cooling system carries 2 maybe nearly 3 times as much coolant as the Jeep engine.
Both engines produce about the same amount of horsepower if the car is not being pushed hard, just normal driving.
So which engine do you think is going to take longer to warm up?
Frankly, I would not use your history with the Jeep and its engine as a way to treat the Porsche engine, other than the oil change every 5K miles. And just 25K miles? Heck my 02 Boxster went over triple that miles without any problems and none were engine related and none were were due to any oiling issues. In fact the same engine now has over 273K miles and still runs great.
If you want to thrash the engine while it is still cool it is your call.
#22
Oh man then I guess you're going to hate my modified Dialysis machine which both heats, filters and replenishes volume. All you need is another fitting off of the
Chattahoochee canal system known as the IMS solution...
Chattahoochee canal system known as the IMS solution...
#23
Rennlist Member
I have to agree with OrthoJoe -- what's the hurry to heat up the oil?
For the street, drive gently until it's hot enough.
If you're about to go onto the track with cold temps run the engine long enough that they aren't cold.
For the street, drive gently until it's hot enough.
If you're about to go onto the track with cold temps run the engine long enough that they aren't cold.
#26
Burning Brakes
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Neither oil nor water temps really matter in and of themselves; they're just tools to help you see what the engine is doing. What really matters is that the engine block and pistons are at operating temperature, and thus have achieved adequate thermal expansion to push the engine to full power. If your water temp is up, you've done that. If your oil was properly selected for your climate, it should be protecting your engine from the moment the engine starts, no matter the temp.
#27
I've got a 981 2.7 Boxster and it usually takes quite a long time for the oil to get to operating temperature. Usually 15 to 20 minutes of driving. My last car only took about 5 minutes each time. I'd really like to be able to wring it out a lot sooner each time I drive it so I'm wondering if there's any hardware anyone knows about that I could install that would decrease warm-up time?
Does something like an oil warmer exist that turns on automatically when you start the car but then automatically deactivates after the oil reaches operating temp or after a certain number of minutes?
Does something like an oil warmer exist that turns on automatically when you start the car but then automatically deactivates after the oil reaches operating temp or after a certain number of minutes?
#28
Instructor
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Our 11 Boxster S does not have an oil temperature gauge...so it must not be important LOL
My Fcar has tire pressure and temperature readouts...it takes much longer for the tires to heat up to a safe operating temperature (over 100F) than it does for the engine oil to heat up. At least another 5 miles in warm weather. It may never get warm enough in cold weather such as 41F.
My point is tire temp is more important for your safety...if your tires are warm enough your oil will be as well.
Best
My Fcar has tire pressure and temperature readouts...it takes much longer for the tires to heat up to a safe operating temperature (over 100F) than it does for the engine oil to heat up. At least another 5 miles in warm weather. It may never get warm enough in cold weather such as 41F.
My point is tire temp is more important for your safety...if your tires are warm enough your oil will be as well.
Best
#29
Burning Brakes
I was going to ask if there's any way to see oil pressure or temperature in the Spyder. Used to be part of my scan in the 968. Maybe master caution goes on if either get out of whack ?
Donn
Donn