So what is "normal oil operating temperature"?
08-15-2013, 07:15 PM
#1
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So what is "normal oil operating temperature"?
I have looked around quite a bit and haven't satisfied myself with an answer that tells me how soon after cold I can start driving the car hard. What I see has been noted before: the water temp rapidly rises to 194 or so and pretty much stays there. The oil temp doesn't budge at first and then slowly rises from around ambient temp. At what oil temp are you comfortable with full throttle and redline shifts?
When I had the car in for it's first oil change at 1000 miles, I had a talk with the service manager about this. He basically said that the modern management system of the 3.4 engine had the car ready to drive hard within a couple minutes of starting up. Well, in my car the oil temp is under 100 at that point. I have been waiting till around 180-200 to increase the throttle and this takes at least 5-6 minutes with temps in the 70s.
What say the rest of you? I'm trying to treat this car like I'm going to keep it (which I may). My initial plan was to drive this until the 991 targa came out and trade for one, but this car is more impressive every time I drive it. But, even if I don't keep it, I want to treat it right for the next owner without sacrificing any enjoyment unnecessarily.
I would appreciate anyone's thoughts or concrete knowledge on the subject. "Search" was not very helpful...
When I had the car in for it's first oil change at 1000 miles, I had a talk with the service manager about this. He basically said that the modern management system of the 3.4 engine had the car ready to drive hard within a couple minutes of starting up. Well, in my car the oil temp is under 100 at that point. I have been waiting till around 180-200 to increase the throttle and this takes at least 5-6 minutes with temps in the 70s.
What say the rest of you? I'm trying to treat this car like I'm going to keep it (which I may). My initial plan was to drive this until the 991 targa came out and trade for one, but this car is more impressive every time I drive it. But, even if I don't keep it, I want to treat it right for the next owner without sacrificing any enjoyment unnecessarily.
I would appreciate anyone's thoughts or concrete knowledge on the subject. "Search" was not very helpful...
08-15-2013, 08:14 PM
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I have looked around quite a bit and haven't satisfied myself with an answer that tells me how soon after cold I can start driving the car hard. What I see has been noted before: the water temp rapidly rises to 194 or so and pretty much stays there. The oil temp doesn't budge at first and then slowly rises from around ambient temp. At what oil temp are you comfortable with full throttle and redline shifts?
When I had the car in for it's first oil change at 1000 miles, I had a talk with the service manager about this. He basically said that the modern management system of the 3.4 engine had the car ready to drive hard within a couple minutes of starting up. Well, in my car the oil temp is under 100 at that point. I have been waiting till around 180-200 to increase the throttle and this takes at least 5-6 minutes with temps in the 70s.
What say the rest of you? I'm trying to treat this car like I'm going to keep it (which I may). My initial plan was to drive this until the 991 targa came out and trade for one, but this car is more impressive every time I drive it. But, even if I don't keep it, I want to treat it right for the next owner without sacrificing any enjoyment unnecessarily.
I would appreciate anyone's thoughts or concrete knowledge on the subject. "Search" was not very helpful...
When I had the car in for it's first oil change at 1000 miles, I had a talk with the service manager about this. He basically said that the modern management system of the 3.4 engine had the car ready to drive hard within a couple minutes of starting up. Well, in my car the oil temp is under 100 at that point. I have been waiting till around 180-200 to increase the throttle and this takes at least 5-6 minutes with temps in the 70s.
What say the rest of you? I'm trying to treat this car like I'm going to keep it (which I may). My initial plan was to drive this until the 991 targa came out and trade for one, but this car is more impressive every time I drive it. But, even if I don't keep it, I want to treat it right for the next owner without sacrificing any enjoyment unnecessarily.
I would appreciate anyone's thoughts or concrete knowledge on the subject. "Search" was not very helpful...
08-15-2013, 08:19 PM
#4
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I have the same concern as you. I'm assuming operating / normal readings are in the middle of their respective scales. Oil pressure reaches normal pressure immediately (around 33 psi I wanna say)....coolant temperature reaches about 194 in a couple of minutes...my engine oil takes about 10-15 minutes to reach about 180-200. It's 70s here too...but I take back roads to work that are amazing. If I were to take the highway, it would take me about 10 mins...my back roads curvy way takes about 30
08-15-2013, 09:13 PM
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It's 12 minutes to my hospital and it's up to temp about 1/2 way there, so my oil is definitely heating to 180-200 in less than 10 minutes. Have you actually timed it? 10-15 minutes sounds a little long to me, based on my real world experience. Service Manager was saying 2-3 minutes and let her rip (I smiled and ignored him, at least so far).
08-15-2013, 09:14 PM
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08-15-2013, 09:39 PM
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Wow that is great to see that Porsche finally added the oil temperature and pressure back into the standard features.
I typically see my engine reach normal operating temperatures after about 7 minutes unless it is cool outside, then it takes maybe 10 minutes for that to happen. But as already noted by Fred, 987.2 only had a coolant temperature gauge and it is analog so it likely isn't as accurate. Still the manual states to wait until the gauge reaches normal operating temperatures before placing heavy load on the engine so I have to assume the coolant temperature is acceptable as a reference. Hope that makes sense....had a couple of IPA's that may be clouding my writing skills.
I typically see my engine reach normal operating temperatures after about 7 minutes unless it is cool outside, then it takes maybe 10 minutes for that to happen. But as already noted by Fred, 987.2 only had a coolant temperature gauge and it is analog so it likely isn't as accurate. Still the manual states to wait until the gauge reaches normal operating temperatures before placing heavy load on the engine so I have to assume the coolant temperature is acceptable as a reference. Hope that makes sense....had a couple of IPA's that may be clouding my writing skills.
08-15-2013, 11:15 PM
#9
Everything I have read in all the different automotive related forums I visit say wait until the oil temp. reaches 160 before hard driving. That is the temp. I use. I don't put my 981 in sport mode until then and just drive "normal" until the OIL temp. hits 160. At that point, drive er like you stole er.
08-16-2013, 07:46 AM
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Everything I have read in all the different automotive related forums I visit say wait until the oil temp. reaches 160 before hard driving. That is the temp. I use. I don't put my 981 in sport mode until then and just drive "normal" until the OIL temp. hits 160. At that point, drive er like you stole er.
08-16-2013, 10:39 AM
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08-16-2013, 11:24 AM
#13
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While I don't know the exact temperature because it varies depending upon climatic conditions if you want to be fairly conservative drive the car until the coolant or oil temperature if you have this have reached some plateau and have remained there for some minutes.
The instant the coolant temperature reaches some arbitrary number is not reliable as there can be a considerable amount of colder coolant just waiting to rush past the t-stat when it fully opens and then of course causing this to close.
With the oil believe it or not -- I've observed larger reservoirs of oil -- without any real agitation it take some time for the oil to become fully warmed up through and through.
The risk it sudden and hard usage increases oil demand. The "warm" oil is almost instantly pulled into the oil pickup followed by the cooler oil as the oil demand by the higher rpm operating causes more oil to be in the engine vs. in the oil sump/tank.
As a result relatively cold oil gets ingested and with the engine spinning at high rpms this cold oil may not flow as promptly to where it needs to be.
So, what I do without the benefit of an actual coolant or oil temperature gage is wait until the coolant temp gage needle is at the point where the engine is "warmed" up and then continue to drive the car 10 or so minutes longer.
By this time the engine, the coolant, and the oil are if not 100% guaran-damned-teed to be fully up to temp they are close enough.
Don't fool yourself. I have used in my Boxster a scan tool to read and monitor in real time coolant temperature and even though the needle is on the 180 mark the coolant temperature is less than that. And even 180F is not that warm. The t-stat is a 190F unit so the coolant wants to be hotter so the t-stat is open and there is full circulation of coolant.
And this wants to be going on long enough the engine temperature is as homogeneous as possible. With as few and large temperature gradients as possible.
Also, it takes time -- 10 or even 15 minutes depending upon ambient temperature -- for the coolant to even get up to the 180F-190F- range. These are very cold blooded engines that require considerable run time to get fully up to temperature.
The instant the coolant temperature reaches some arbitrary number is not reliable as there can be a considerable amount of colder coolant just waiting to rush past the t-stat when it fully opens and then of course causing this to close.
With the oil believe it or not -- I've observed larger reservoirs of oil -- without any real agitation it take some time for the oil to become fully warmed up through and through.
The risk it sudden and hard usage increases oil demand. The "warm" oil is almost instantly pulled into the oil pickup followed by the cooler oil as the oil demand by the higher rpm operating causes more oil to be in the engine vs. in the oil sump/tank.
As a result relatively cold oil gets ingested and with the engine spinning at high rpms this cold oil may not flow as promptly to where it needs to be.
So, what I do without the benefit of an actual coolant or oil temperature gage is wait until the coolant temp gage needle is at the point where the engine is "warmed" up and then continue to drive the car 10 or so minutes longer.
By this time the engine, the coolant, and the oil are if not 100% guaran-damned-teed to be fully up to temp they are close enough.
Don't fool yourself. I have used in my Boxster a scan tool to read and monitor in real time coolant temperature and even though the needle is on the 180 mark the coolant temperature is less than that. And even 180F is not that warm. The t-stat is a 190F unit so the coolant wants to be hotter so the t-stat is open and there is full circulation of coolant.
And this wants to be going on long enough the engine temperature is as homogeneous as possible. With as few and large temperature gradients as possible.
Also, it takes time -- 10 or even 15 minutes depending upon ambient temperature -- for the coolant to even get up to the 180F-190F- range. These are very cold blooded engines that require considerable run time to get fully up to temperature.
Last edited by Macster; 08-16-2013 at 11:25 AM. Reason: Spelling...
08-16-2013, 11:39 AM
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keadog, I made some observations this morning. The times below started the moment I started my engine in my garage which was at ~73F. I let it run for a couple of minutes before I pulled out. My commute (although backroads) does involve getting stuck behind slow pokes until I reach the secluded areas.
* It took about 6 minutes for my coolant temp to reach 194F
* It took about 12 min for my oil temp to reach 194F. At this point, I was 6.7 miles into my commute with an average speed of 32 MPH
* It took about 15 min for my oil temp to reach 214F which appeared to be the normal temperature
* It took about 6 minutes for my coolant temp to reach 194F
* It took about 12 min for my oil temp to reach 194F. At this point, I was 6.7 miles into my commute with an average speed of 32 MPH
* It took about 15 min for my oil temp to reach 214F which appeared to be the normal temperature
08-16-2013, 11:43 AM
#15
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While I don't know the exact temperature because it varies depending upon climatic conditions if you want to be fairly conservative drive the car until the coolant or oil temperature if you have this have reached some plateau and have remained there for some minutes.
The instant the coolant temperature reaches some arbitrary number is not reliable as there can be a considerable amount of colder coolant just waiting to rush past the t-stat when it fully opens and then of course causing this to close.
With the oil believe it or not -- I've observed larger reservoirs of oil -- without any real agitation it take some time for the oil to become fully warmed up through and through.
The risk it sudden and hard usage increases oil demand. The "warm" oil is almost instantly pulled into the oil pickup followed by the cooler oil as the oil demand by the higher rpm operating causes more oil to be in the engine vs. in the oil sump/tank.
As a result relatively cold oil gets ingested and with the engine spinning at high rpms this cold oil may not flow as promptly to where it needs to be.
So, what I do without the benefit of an actual coolant or oil temperature gage is wait until the coolant temp gage needle is at the point where the engine is "warmed" up and then continue to drive the car 10 or so minutes longer.
By this time the engine, the coolant, and the oil are if not 100% guaran-damned-teed to be fully up to temp they are close enough.
Don't fool yourself. I have used in my Boxster a scan tool to read and monitor in real time coolant temperature and even though the needle is on the 180 mark the coolant temperature is less than that. And even 180F is not that warm. The t-stat is a 190F unit so the coolant wants to be hotter so the t-stat is open and there is full circulation of coolant.
And this wants to be going on long enough the engine temperature is as homogeneous as possible. With as few and large temperature gradients as possible.
Also, it takes time -- 10 or even 15 minutes depending upon ambient temperature -- for the coolant to even get up to the 180F-190F- range. These are very cold blooded engines that require considerable run time to get fully up to temperature.
The instant the coolant temperature reaches some arbitrary number is not reliable as there can be a considerable amount of colder coolant just waiting to rush past the t-stat when it fully opens and then of course causing this to close.
With the oil believe it or not -- I've observed larger reservoirs of oil -- without any real agitation it take some time for the oil to become fully warmed up through and through.
The risk it sudden and hard usage increases oil demand. The "warm" oil is almost instantly pulled into the oil pickup followed by the cooler oil as the oil demand by the higher rpm operating causes more oil to be in the engine vs. in the oil sump/tank.
As a result relatively cold oil gets ingested and with the engine spinning at high rpms this cold oil may not flow as promptly to where it needs to be.
So, what I do without the benefit of an actual coolant or oil temperature gage is wait until the coolant temp gage needle is at the point where the engine is "warmed" up and then continue to drive the car 10 or so minutes longer.
By this time the engine, the coolant, and the oil are if not 100% guaran-damned-teed to be fully up to temp they are close enough.
Don't fool yourself. I have used in my Boxster a scan tool to read and monitor in real time coolant temperature and even though the needle is on the 180 mark the coolant temperature is less than that. And even 180F is not that warm. The t-stat is a 190F unit so the coolant wants to be hotter so the t-stat is open and there is full circulation of coolant.
And this wants to be going on long enough the engine temperature is as homogeneous as possible. With as few and large temperature gradients as possible.
Also, it takes time -- 10 or even 15 minutes depending upon ambient temperature -- for the coolant to even get up to the 180F-190F- range. These are very cold blooded engines that require considerable run time to get fully up to temperature.
Makes sense about increased oil demands, but my oil temp shows 180-200 in less than 10 minutes. The Service manager was adamant that the 3.4 heats up very quickly. I asked him basically the same question as many different ways as I could think but he wouldn't budge on his answer. He basically said as soon as the oil temp moved past the line on the left, it was ok to drive at full throttle (I still wait).
Thanks for the input.