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987S vs. 981 Base

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Old 02-01-2013, 08:32 PM
  #16  
clutchplate
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I got the base due to the ever growing number of Highway Patrol and ridiculous ticket costs here in California. That said, I bought the base with PSE so although I'm not going fast, it sounds like I am. Still a lot of fun without the S power.
Old 02-01-2013, 10:58 PM
  #17  
fast1
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Originally Posted by perfectlap
if you test drive that 981 S. You will buy that 981 S. Those sales guys are very good at what they do and frankly selling the latest and greatest Boxster to an enthusiast isn't exactly like selling ice to an eskimo. STAY AWAY!

There's a guy in the 997 forum who is selling his car after six years with a grand total of 81 miles. Yes 81. The car has a top bluebook of low $40's and there's probably $90K into it on purchase and mods. 81 miles....
Point is there will always be Porsche people who have to have the new Porsche and then hand it off to you with barely any mileage, a warranty and a steep discount to boot. Which makes it a screaming deal. And the kicker, on the time sheets the 981 S Boxster and 991 Carrera are basically equal. Performance and value simply for waiting a couple of years. What could be better?? I certainly can't think of anything.
The problem is that for every pristine car cited in your example, there are probably ten others, where the owner experienced a significant problem, and decided to trade the car in for another car, notwithstanding the huge depreciation hit. The rule of thumb is that when something appears to be too good to be true, in most cases it is.
Old 02-02-2013, 02:33 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by fast1
The problem is that for every pristine car cited in your example, there are probably ten others, where the owner experienced a significant problem, and decided to trade the car in for another car, notwithstanding the huge depreciation hit. The rule of thumb is that when something appears to be too good to be true, in most cases it is.

It's not that a "too good to be true" deal needs to be on the table for buying a car with mileage to be represent a significant savings. I bought my Spyder with 3K on it, was the first to title it and have found it to be free of any defects thus far. The savings off list was much more attractive than if I had purchased one without mileage at least in my opinion anyway.
Old 02-02-2013, 04:03 PM
  #19  
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ok - your moving from picking a car to the cost of driving a car in this thread.

Take some advice- if you want a reduced cost of ownership - draw a line through purchasing a new Porsche. Plz take it from someone who learned from the inside (sales) & now on the outside i've owned a 911 C2 for a year '09-10 bought 10k miles $38500 sold next year nov '10 $42500 (in-out) '07 997 TT CPO 17k $78900.. that's about what they are going for now- mid $70's.

The sweet spot on the depreciation curve is years 3-4 & can drive for a couple if done right and flip out to the next sweet spot up the line.

Car suggestion: buy the S.

My suggestion buy the Boxster Spyder. I was just reading about it and that's how I got over here-
Old 02-04-2013, 03:15 AM
  #20  
Gripster
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Originally Posted by German_Saint
ok - your moving from picking a car to the cost of driving a car in this thread.

Take some advice- if you want a reduced cost of ownership - draw a line through purchasing a new Porsche. Plz take it from someone who learned from the inside (sales) & now on the outside i've owned a 911 C2 for a year '09-10 bought 10k miles $38500 sold next year nov '10 $42500 (in-out) '07 997 TT CPO 17k $78900.. that's about what they are going for now- mid $70's.

The sweet spot on the depreciation curve is years 3-4 & can drive for a couple if done right and flip out to the next sweet spot up the line.

Car suggestion: buy the S.

My suggestion buy the Boxster Spyder. I was just reading about it and that's how I got over here-
Seems like a good plan. Decent low mileage CPO 987.2S examples can be had well under budget. It amazes me that these cars stickered for over $70k 3-4 years ago and can now be for around $40k. This makes them a hell of a deal when you factor in that CPO provides a warranty too.
Old 02-09-2013, 09:51 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by German_Saint
i've owned a 911 C2 for a year '09-10 bought 10k miles $38500 sold next year nov '10 $42500 (in-out) '07 997 TT CPO 17k $78900.. that's about what they are going for now- mid $70's.

The sweet spot on the depreciation curve is years 3-4 & can drive for a couple if done right and flip out to the next sweet spot up the line.
I'm really interested in this idea, and it gives some credence to what I've been seeing as I look at used Caymans and 911s. There seems to be a real flattening of depreciation of cars between 2 and 5 years old. I see TONS of 2007 and 2008 Caymans at around the $30K price, but I can buy a 2011 Cayman right now for $39K.

But I have a question. I don't fully follow what you are saying above. What car did you buy in 2009 that you sold in 2010. Are you saying you bought a 2007 997 TT in 2009 for $38K that is now, in 2013 worth $79K? That can't be right. Can you clarify?

thanks!
Old 02-09-2013, 10:34 PM
  #22  
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I have a write up in this forum of a week with a 981 base 6-sp. Like the looks, the stereo and the fully automatic top. Other than that, the experience from the driver's seat was rather lacking. Given the choice between a 981 base and 987.2 S, the 987.2 S wins without a second thought. I find the new smaller 2.7l engine in the 981 base lacking even a lot of the mid-range punch of the old 987.2 base. Combine that with the complete lack of steering feel, disconnected shifter and the terrible parking brake; this is enough I would stay with the 987.2. There is also a huge performance difference between a base and an S. Drive both and you'll see.
Old 02-10-2013, 01:40 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 10 GT3
I have a write up in this forum of a week with a 981 base 6-sp. Like the looks, the stereo and the fully automatic top. Other than that, the experience from the driver's seat was rather lacking. Given the choice between a 981 base and 987.2 S, the 987.2 S wins without a second thought. I find the new smaller 2.7l engine in the 981 base lacking even a lot of the mid-range punch of the old 987.2 base. Combine that with the complete lack of steering feel, disconnected shifter and the terrible parking brake; this is enough I would stay with the 987.2. There is also a huge performance difference between a base and an S. Drive both and you'll see.
+1
In another thread (https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=68981), I described it similarly.
Old 02-10-2013, 11:52 AM
  #24  
zirrah
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Guys, whats the main complaint with the electronic parking brake? I just am struggling to see where it would be something to complain about?
Old 02-10-2013, 11:55 AM
  #25  
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The issues I have read about seem to dance around the reliability of the system. If you have a manual, leaving it in first or reverse should be fine, I never used the parking brake on my 986 or 944 or the spyder for that matter, then again I don't live in San Francisco either.
Old 02-10-2013, 12:00 PM
  #26  
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Other than reliability I'm not sure there are many complaints on the electronic hand brake. Personally I lean towards simplicity and would prefer the manual hand brake for this reason only. I guess that makes me old fashioned and not in tune with technology. I'm fine with that.
Old 02-10-2013, 01:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Marine Blue
Other than reliability I'm not sure there are many complaints on the electronic hand brake. Personally I lean towards simplicity and would prefer the manual hand brake for this reason only. I guess that makes me old fashioned and not in tune with technology. I'm fine with that.
Right that I'm with you on.
Old 02-10-2013, 01:58 PM
  #28  
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No e-brake turns! And, when you turn the car off, you need to look for the button to push, rather than just reach for it without thinking. Normally, you would also use it to assist launch on a steep hill, but given the hill-hold clutch (suck), maybe it's time has past. The hill-holder feature is dangerous. The other day I was on a hill at a stop light behind an old beetle. When the light changed, the beetle began to roll back, so I got off the brake, but my car did't roll back! It was close... the beetle pulled forward, but I was freaking out. I HATE that feature, it's for lame asses that can't drive a manual.
Old 02-10-2013, 02:20 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Schmidts Cat
No e-brake turns! And, when you turn the car off, you need to look for the button to push, rather than just reach for it without thinking. Normally, you would also use it to assist launch on a steep hill, but given the hill-hold clutch (suck), maybe it's time has past. The hill-holder feature is dangerous. The other day I was on a hill at a stop light behind an old beetle. When the light changed, the beetle began to roll back, so I got off the brake, but my car did't roll back! It was close... the beetle pulled forward, but I was freaking out. I HATE that feature, it's for lame asses that can't drive a manual.
+1000
I've spent the better part of a year trying (unsuccessfully) to get that killed. Why is that not defeatable like daylight running lights?
Old 02-10-2013, 04:52 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Schmidts Cat
No e-brake turns! And, when you turn the car off, you need to look for the button to push, rather than just reach for it without thinking. Normally, you would also use it to assist launch on a steep hill, but given the hill-hold clutch (suck), maybe it's time has past. The hill-holder feature is dangerous. The other day I was on a hill at a stop light behind an old beetle. When the light changed, the beetle began to roll back, so I got off the brake, but my car did't roll back! It was close... the beetle pulled forward, but I was freaking out. I HATE that feature, it's for lame asses that can't drive a manual.
I thought you could disengage it by pushing in the clutch and putting it into neutral? I realize it's another step and I agree it's a pain and not intuitive but at at least it could save your front bumper.


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