pbedrosi

I really messed things up on the 2006 Boxster I just bought for my son. I may have mixed up / relocated fuses, its late and i'm pulling my hair out.

When we bought the car I knew the top was not working. Since having it home and only driven it a few times the rear spoiler no longer goes up, and the rear truck would not open. Tonight I went to the fuse panel and caused more damage than fixing anything.

I could not find much of a definitive fuse panel diagram - the owners manual has nothing. I did find few 987 Cayman diagrams, but I'm not certain if it's applicable. Found the fuse panel list for 987 Boxster (image below).

1. 1) n the first step, I started to remove each fuse to check out the condition. I found 15A fuse in position A3 to be blown, I replaced this and the rear trunk opened. Success was short-lived. As I was pulling a fuse on row A, my yellow fuse puller cached and pulled out a 7.5A fuse in Row B...don't know where it came from.
2. Using the fuse diagram I checked and relocated the now lose 7.5A fuse to B6 position (CU Onboard Computer/network/Actuator tank cover)
3. I start the car an all seems normal until PSM error appears with the yellow traction triangle error icon
4. i start to check rows C and D - all seems ok
5. I drive the car after reading that PSM error can happen after power is cut to the system (new battery install, etc..) and should reset after driving
6. During the drive rear spoiler error comes back up (will not raise), and PSM amber icon is still lit
7. Back to driveway, rear trunk won't open, checked all the 15A fuses and nothing....back to the diagram, I move a few based on the diagram and now the car won't start, just cranks.
8. Back to the diagram, check a few positions...now "press clutch to start car" error...
9. At this point, not having an original photo of the panel to work with (I know), I may have completely mixed fuses.
10. See attached photo of how my fuse panel looks now

Can someone take a photo of their fuse panel??? My car is base Boxster, Manual Transmission, heated and power seats. I don't have Triptronic and I don't have Bose (subwoofer).

Row A: Matches the diagram
Row B: Position 4 - Missing, but I don't have headlamp washer - Otherwise it matches the diagram
Row C: Position 5 - should be empty, I don't have Tiptronic. Position 6 - should I have 15A fuse here? Position 9 - should be empty, I don't have PASM? Position 10 - 25A for PSM and it looks ok
Row D: Position 1 and 2, fuel pump, I think only Position 1 is needed? Position 3 - should be emply, Tiptronic again. Position 10 - should be empty, I don't have Bose/Subwoofer.

Any thoughts? could pulling and re-inserting the fuses during my check pushed out the pins/wires from the rear of the panel?

pbedrosi

Nobody has a 987 Boxster to take a pic?

Dave in Chicago

Here's mine. '05 Boxster S with Bose, heated memory seats, manual trans, etc. Hope this helps!

pbedrosi

Thanks so much! heading home now to check it out.

pbedrosi

Thank you for the picture, it helped a lot.

The dealer didn’t have a diagram but gave me a baggie full of fuses.

i first measured the battery voltage at 12.4v, is this low? I then disconnected the battery, checked every single fuse and even used emery cloth on the fuse posts as extra measure. I matched the image provided.

2 questions: I don’t have Bose so I don’t think D10 needs a fuse, and B4 for headlamp washer. I don’t have this function. Anyhow, I added the fuses anyhow, I don’t think there is harm in this if there is no circuit behind it?

i reconnected the battery. The engine will not turn over, same warnings in center display....ABS failure, press clutch to start, PSM error. There is also a high pitch chime I haven’t heard before.

What options do I have other than towing the car to dealer?

NJR1986

All those warnings are pretty common any time disconnecting and reconnecting the battery...

Unfortunately, when messing with amperage in different locations, any number of things could have shorted out. Do you hear any fuel pump priming before starting? 12.4 on start is normal.

Im going to just assume you're pressing the "clutch to start?" correct?

What symptoms are you getting when you go to turn the engine over? Cranking? Clicking? Anything?

pbedrosi

I left the car disconnected overnight....but forgot not to close the hood. Used jumper cables in the morning to the red post in the fuse panel to unlock the hood and reconnect the battery.

I borrowed some really unsavory looking jumper cables from my friend to provide some charge to the battery before I cranked it over. The terminal ends of the cable on my wife's car and Boxster started to smoke...I quickly removed from both cars, cables hot as heck. I blame the janky cables. I get in the car and it starts, no issues other than PSM error, but the car runs. All is well and I'm in a good mood so I spent the next 5 hours removing the cowl trim to clean the gunk, leaves, and clogged drain holes lurking underneath the cover ncluding one nasty looking cabin filter...very satisfying cleanup.

1. While doing the cleaning I did disconnect the battery and removed it from the car.
2. I reassemble everything and I go to open the trunk...nothing. 15A fuse was blown again, position A3, the spoiler will not work either.
3. replaced the blown fuse, the trunk release works
4. I go to start the engine and its mayhem again...the strange buzzing from the meter, ABS error, and clutch to start.
5. During the warning messages and buzzing I try the trunk release and it works, I was even able to move the spoiler up

So that's where I left it for tonight. I've discoonected the battery again and I'll give it a shot tomorrow morning...but I'm suspecting the battery.

TMc993

Take your battery to AutoZone, Advanced Auto Parts or somewhere similar and have them load test it. If it's even close to being weak, replace it with a battery that meets or exceeds factory spec. If it's good, put it on a trickle charger and get it fully charged before putting a load on it again.

Before you reconnect the battery, take the fuse panel diagram for your year/model and make sure the appropriate fuses are in the appropriate slots. Don't put any extra ones in. That only increases the potential for error. Since you know the top isn't working, remove that fuse and don't put it back in until you've resolved the other issues.

Turn off everything electrical that can be turned off, install the battery and attempt to start the car. From this point, change only one condition at a time until you're sure you know what the problem is.

pbedrosi

I just tried to connect a battery charger and it blew the 3 25A Fues on the charger. I'm just in the process of removing the battery to have it checked as suggested.

TMc993

Usually caused by an internal fault in the battery overloading the charger and blowing the fuse. Can also be the result of touching the alligator clamps together while the charger is on or attempting to charge the battery with the charger cables attached to the wrong battery posts.

pbedrosi

You are right about one thing, too many variables and changes at once.

I took the battery to PepBoys (They had the original Bosch in Stock) and it passed...here is the print out.


I notices the state of charge to be just more than 1/2. So I went back to the charger and noticed the cables were not firmly in the post and hanging by handful of strands (too many variables). Fixed this, replaced the fuses on the charger (not a cheap charger actually, industrial smart charger used to power up cars during autoshows). Wile battery out of the car I put the charger on it with no issues. measured 13+ V coming from the charger and I let of charge overnight.

1) I believe the issues of charger blowing the fuse was that negative cable on the battery was still connected to the car, while the positive lead was not (quick disconnect installed by previous owner)
2) I am going to pull the fuses that are not needed tonight (Bose Subwoofer, Headlamp Washer, and Convertible top (including relay)).
3) I'm still not sure if the fuse list is applicable to my car. Look at Row D list of fuse and what is on Dave from Chicago's car. Only variation on my car was missing D10 fuse for (Subwoofer/AMP) and 25A vs. 15A D7 (ignition coil)

1. 25A - Replay / Fuel Pump Compartment -
2. Blank (My car and Dave's car has 15A here)
3. 7.5A - CU DME (My car and Dave's car is empty)
4. Blank (We both have 7.5A here)
5. 25A - Long list of items / Fuel pump / Vent Valve / A.C CU DME . Engine Compartment Blower
6. 25A - Oxygen Sensor Heater
7. 15A - Ignition Coil / Fuel Injectors (I had 25A here, I switched to 15A)
8. Blank
9. 10A - E Box HANDY / CD-charger / PCM 2.1 / telephone / DVD Player
10. 25A - Amplifier / subwoofer (I will remove this from my car)

I will install the battery tonight and see how it goes.

pbedrosi

As you say TMc993, too many variables.

I took the battery to PepBoys, they had the OEM Bosh battery in stock. The battery checked out...see below.


I fixed the issue with the battery charger, and while out of the vehicle I charged it overnight. The printout showed roughly 60% charge.

Prior to installing the battery I cleaned the posts and terminals and applied grease from the "wire brush" battery installation kit. Voltage ok.

I removed the unnecessary fuse for the Top, the 30A fuse in row E3, Amp/Subwoofer in D10, headlamps washer in B4. I also removed the relay on top right, I was told this is also for the top, but the ignition was completely dead, meters and key completely off. So this one is back in.

After all this the car will still not crank over, same error messages. I have a video at home that I will upload later.

What I'm not convinced of, and can't believe the dealer does not have, is the fuse diagram. The Row i'm having difficulty is D.

1. I know D7 should be 15A on mine and I have updated this.
2. D3, D4, D5 match between my car and Dave's car, but does not match the fuse panel chart. See attached below.

I left the car alone for a day....I will try to crank it over tonight.

pbedrosi

Here is a 2 minute video

TMc993

Move the 7.5 A fuse in D4 to D3. Don't move anything else. Attempt to start.

carlucci9

Dave, Hoping you can help. New member, so not sure if I'm responding to the thread correctly. I have a *new* 2006 Boxster. The seat heaters lights don't go on. have not waited to see if they warm up...assuming not. I've checked the fuse map and don't see a code (that I understand) for the seat heater fuse. since you are in this thread and have seat heaters, can you help me out?