Dme overrev report?
#1
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Dme overrev report?
Looking for some advice on a car I’m considering buying. Can someone advise on this DME report?
#2
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With Range 5 Overrev I would pass, especially as it appears to have happened recently.
#3
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And hammered again <5 hours ago. The range #1s are also almost at the max.
#4
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Yeah, but how do you "over rev" an 'automatic' transmission? I have never heard this explained. Going up, it should hit the rev limiter before over revving, and going down, it shouldn't change gears until it can shift without over revving. ???
#6
It's a manual Cayman - no PDK
#7
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Thanks for all of your feedback. The car has had track time.
This is the seller’s response..
“DMEs aren't very useful except where an engine starts misbehaving after an overrev event. Then they point to something having bent, broken, or stretched, etc. If the car runs fine after the event, then the parts didn't bend, break or stretch and the DME is pretty much irrelevant. The number on the left in each range is the number of ignition events. To translate that into seconds, divide by 7000 and you will overestimate the time by a little. This will give you the total time the engine operated in that range. The number on the right is the engine hours when the last event occurred. That may have been a short event, and all of the events much longer ago--there is no way of knowing. You can get a sense for street/track balance by dividing the miles by the hours to give you an average speed. Here, that will tell you that the car was predominantly driven on the street. Sorry for the long explanation, but some people think that DMEs have almost mystical predictive powers, but they don't--unless an engine has failed right after an event.”
This is the seller’s response..
“DMEs aren't very useful except where an engine starts misbehaving after an overrev event. Then they point to something having bent, broken, or stretched, etc. If the car runs fine after the event, then the parts didn't bend, break or stretch and the DME is pretty much irrelevant. The number on the left in each range is the number of ignition events. To translate that into seconds, divide by 7000 and you will overestimate the time by a little. This will give you the total time the engine operated in that range. The number on the right is the engine hours when the last event occurred. That may have been a short event, and all of the events much longer ago--there is no way of knowing. You can get a sense for street/track balance by dividing the miles by the hours to give you an average speed. Here, that will tell you that the car was predominantly driven on the street. Sorry for the long explanation, but some people think that DMEs have almost mystical predictive powers, but they don't--unless an engine has failed right after an event.”
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#8
I've lost track of Porsche's requirements for CPO but I believe in the past (and possibly today) they'll refuse to CPO a car with any level 4 overrevs. So, logical or not, Porsche considers it a sufficiently "bad thing" to not believe the return on investment will be there, on average, with a car that exhibits that condition.
#10
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The 987.1 used forged rod bolts. Cheap forged rod bolts. A friend with a heavily tracked 987.1 was having routine work done when the wrench heard something amiss. About $25,000 later the motor is ready for the track. That is reality. Reality sucks, and is not what the seller is saying. Most of the owners of cars I see on the track take better care of their car than the general population (and general Porsche population). The people who know how to drive their car on the track don't hit zone 5 on a regular basis. Unless the car is being sold at a significant discount which will give you a chance to weigh the pros and cons, you may end up paying less in the long run if you pay the outrageous asking price the dealer in IL wants for the lightly optioned black 987.2 Cayman S manual with 9k miles. At least you wont need a motor, and it has a CPO.
I would pass on the one you posted.
I would pass on the one you posted.
#11
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Thanks all. Will pass on this car.
#12
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A really bad DME report should be treated the same as a salvage title IMHO. If the car is offered at a discount to cover the potential cost of an engine rebuild then it can be an acceptable purchase. Assuming $18k for a rebuild you should discount half or more off the price and assume you’re on the hook for the remaining in the coming year or two. The unfortunate part of this is that the DME report will follow the car and it may make it more difficult to sell at a later date unless the engine rebuild is fully documented in the listing.
#13
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My understanding is that overrevs in an "unsafe range" can be ok if >300 hours has passed since that time. This one is nowhere near that. Pass.
#14
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No it doesn't. If you drove a car 150 MPH for 20 hours (3000 miles) and 1 MPH for 20 hours (20 miles), your average speed ((3000+20)/40) would be 75.5 MPH which is indicative of nothing. Dude needs to retake STAT 101 and learn the limitations of using a simple mean as a descriptive statistic.
#15
No it doesn't. If you drove a car 150 MPH for 20 hours (3000 miles) and 1 MPH for 20 hours (20 miles), your average speed ((3000+20)/40) would be 75.5 MPH which is indicative of nothing. Dude needs to retake STAT 101 and learn the limitations of using a simple mean as a descriptive statistic.