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Old 04-19-2019, 05:44 PM
  #16  
garfunkle
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All clean. Decontaminated, optimum MDR, Coated and sealed:


Old 04-19-2019, 05:48 PM
  #17  
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Parts to be installed:
Numeric SSK and cables
FF1 engine mounts
Plugs
FVD headers
Spark plugs
thermostate
Water pump
Belt
Girodisc 340mm 2 piece rotors
SS Brake lines
GT3 Brake Booster
Stainless lines
Old 04-19-2019, 06:42 PM
  #18  
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Assuming you plan on racing...

https://www.tarett.com/items/986-987...sba-detail.htm

https://www.tarett.com/items/986-987...lnk-detail.htm

https://www.tarett.com/items/986-987...sba-detail.htm

https://www.tarett.com/items/986-987...lnk-detail.htm
Old 04-19-2019, 06:58 PM
  #19  
garfunkle
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Just mountain fun. Maybe a few track days with an instructor just to learn.

I thought long and hard about sway bars and still may. On a scale of 1 to 10 and 5 being an average driver... I'm a solid 6 or maybe even a weak 7. I actually want the body roll to "feel" the car more. My 911 with PDCC, SC, PASM, Coilovers, etc stays so flat that its almost too boring. I may get flamed for this.... but part of the reason the Miata is so fun os the body movement. YMMV.
Old 04-19-2019, 07:44 PM
  #20  
Kitc2246
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Originally Posted by garfunkle
I went to do the top fix tonight...

to do it RIGHT there is actually a torx screw holding the back of the elastic. There are what looks like button holes, similar to tightening the elastic on a toddler’s pants that can be tightened. I did t have the right size torx(small) so will finish this weekend. It’s best I think to cut from the cloth and staple/sew to that and I’m going to double up on some thick elastic and make a washer with super gluing a 1/2” spot on both sides and drill a hole through that for the torx to go back in the frame.

With manual I intervention I did get it to lay right though until I actually fix it right.
Suggest putting a small piece of colored tape below or above the torx screw before you remove it. Its on the backside of the frame. I had to go to the other side to find the hole location. Mine had been repaired before and just the passenger side was loose. I suggest at least doubling the elastic tape.
Old 04-19-2019, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MidEngineRules
First and foremost, you need to get your top fixed. Your elastic loop has failed. lol Common issue unfortunately. You'll ruin the top if you don't get it fixed.

Have you thought about brakes? First rule to make something faster is to make it brake stronger. 987 brakes (less PCCB) aren't the best. Not saying you need to go ceramic. Can anything bigger be added from the Carrera lineup (997 perhaps?).
I've found that my front brakes with Hawk DCT-60s have all the stopping power my Michelin PS4s and my track skills can handle. I switch back to OEM pads because the DCT-60s are really dusty and squeak on the street. Many do upgrade the brakes, but suggest a more aggressive brake pad first.
Old 04-22-2019, 07:54 PM
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Old 04-22-2019, 07:55 PM
  #23  
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The numeric shifter is an absolute work of art!

Old 04-22-2019, 09:07 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by garfunkle
The numeric shifter is an absolute work of art!
I'd be interested in having your opinion on it. I've read varying things, and can't filter out confirmation bias.

Are you changing out the cables too?
Old 04-22-2019, 11:27 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by andy7777
I'd be interested in having your opinion on it. I've read varying things, and can't filter out confirmation bias.

Are you changing out the cables too?
I am.

I can tell you that this is a much notchier setup than most. The GT3/Porsche SSK is a lot more approachable for the average driver. I test drive a few before pulling the trigger. OEM is actually easier to drive. That being said, this is the most "snick, snick" precise option available for our cars but takes being intentional about shifting until it gets broken in a little. It has the most robust construction I've seen and is aligned with my build. I.e. FF1 engine mounts and 400/460 spring rates on Ohlin R/T DFV.
Old 04-22-2019, 11:29 PM
  #26  
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The Zunsports were crazy easy to install... but the trade off is poor fitment. I know many will argue that but look at my pics. The Rennsport grills are a PITA to install on my 991 but look much more OEM. I'll swap these when I add a third radiator.
Old 04-24-2019, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by garfunkle
In the process of sorting out my new 987.2...

Ordered parts:
1. Ohlins R/T Coilovers (installed)
2. IPD Plenum (installed)
3. GT3 Throttle Body (installed)
4. FVD Sport headers
5. FVD Tune
6. FF1 Engine Mounts
7. Clear side markers (installed)
8. OEM Strut mounts (shot) (installed)
9. BMC filter (installed)

Considering/shopping
1. Short shifter (deciding between Numeric and GT3)
2. Short shifter cables

Car is a 2012 with 38K miles. I'll do the plugs and cabin filter soon - it should have been done due to time by now but I'd rather be safe. Any other common maintenance or preferred by the community items I should be considering? I'm not looking to do the exhaust quite yet.
Nice list of mods ! Did the plenum result in noticeable gains ? It probably works best with a full exhaust setup and tune but I'm curious to see if there's much of a difference with the plenum alone.
Old 04-25-2019, 09:47 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 604IS350
Nice list of mods ! Did the plenum result in noticeable gains ? It probably works best with a full exhaust setup and tune but I'm curious to see if there's much of a difference with the plenum alone.
More noticeable than my 991. Mostly because of the GT3 Throttle Body. I mean it's still a high strung NA engine so its not crazy but I can tell.
Old 04-25-2019, 10:21 AM
  #29  
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Thanks for the view on numeric.

What did you think of the OEM SS or GT shifters?
Old 04-25-2019, 10:51 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by andy7777
Thanks for the view on numeric.

What did you think of the OEM SS or GT shifters?
I think they are a fine upgrade but they still have a lot of plastic in them Most people I think would be happy with them. I just thought the increase in quality was more substantial than the price delta.


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