Car care
#16
Chemical Guys is my go to
Like everyone else said though, almost all the brands offer similar results. My pet peeve is to not mix and match brands of product when you're doing something similar, like one brand soap to wash and then a different to wax, but that's just me.
Like everyone else said though, almost all the brands offer similar results. My pet peeve is to not mix and match brands of product when you're doing something similar, like one brand soap to wash and then a different to wax, but that's just me.
In the stupid money I've wasted I've only found two things which were a significant improvement and worth the change.
1.) Rupes dual action buffer is worth the money over the entry level Porter Cable 7424. More power, better ergonomics, and less motor vibration so your hands don't go numb after an hour of buffing.
2.) The Rag Company "Creature" microfiber towels...of the four brands and dozen different "models" of towels I've tried they are the best, and good enough that I boxed up all the other towels and ordered 50 more "creature" towels in various colors for various tasks.
Last edited by Scooby921; 02-06-2019 at 12:19 PM.
#17
Rennlist Member
I agree it's the wild west out there in the universe of cleaning products. a lot depends on what P-car you are taking care of, a '60's 356, a 70's 911, a 80's-90's 911 , early 2000's, late model car? A Coupe a Convertible and the wheels, etc.... I've used the majority of what's available. I remember some unhappy outcomes, some OK outcomes and some outstanding outcomes. I've evolved recently to Ammo in New York City and The Chemical Guys. Ammo blew me away with their wheel care protocol for my 2011 Boxster Spyder 19" babies. And The Chemical Guys have great microfiber towels and quick detailers. I was also impressed with Wurth Foam Auto Glass Spray Cleaner. And yes, Griots has good stuff. I think it's been said and probably most of you guys here know and I'm learning, the towels, sponges, brushes, applicators, etc. are the most important components of the process.
#18
Addict
Rennlist Member
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The microfiber is without question the most important part of the equation. Spend the extra to buy high quality microfibers, a few for glass, a few for paint, cheap ones for wheels, cheaper ones yet for engine and wheel wells, medium grade for interior. Yeah I have tons of MF’s on hand and I relegate them to specific parts of the car so there’s little risk of damaging the most sensitive parts of the car, the cars paint.
#19
Instructor
Adam's Polishes, smell great. work as advertised and always very easy to use. Plus their videos are detailed and helpful. I have it them on all 3 of my cars for years and they still look awesome!
#20
Three Wheelin'
I try and clay bar my 2009 Boxster once a year and then wax. While most of the new stone chips are on the bumper it helps find the others. You can see and feel the difference when you wax. I clean the convertible top once a year and then water proof using 303. Similarly a good leather cleaner on the seats. I bought someones black trim restorer especially for the trim at the bottom of the windshield around the wipers. Mine was beginning to "gray". Mothers VLR for the dash. Anybody have a recommendation for hardened brake dust? Left my track pads on the front from last year when I drove to get a service. I normally use a wheel wax for the track and wash the next day. Did not realize how much dust I had generated for the short maintenance trip. Tried wheel cleaner and removed most of it, but several spots I can't even scratch with my finger nail.
#21
Highly recommend a paint sealant. Will last much, much longer than any wax.
I'm a huge fan of Power Lock Plus, but have not tried a more simple product like P&S Bead Maker.
Occasionally I'll throw on some Griot's Spray On Wax or Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish after a wash. Great for maintenance.
I'm a huge fan of Power Lock Plus, but have not tried a more simple product like P&S Bead Maker.
Occasionally I'll throw on some Griot's Spray On Wax or Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish after a wash. Great for maintenance.
#22
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I try and clay bar my 2009 Boxster once a year and then wax. While most of the new stone chips are on the bumper it helps find the others. You can see and feel the difference when you wax. I clean the convertible top once a year and then water proof using 303. Similarly a good leather cleaner on the seats. I bought someones black trim restorer especially for the trim at the bottom of the windshield around the wipers. Mine was beginning to "gray". Mothers VLR for the dash. Anybody have a recommendation for hardened brake dust? Left my track pads on the front from last year when I drove to get a service. I normally use a wheel wax for the track and wash the next day. Did not realize how much dust I had generated for the short maintenance trip. Tried wheel cleaner and removed most of it, but several spots I can't even scratch with my finger nail.
#23
Many people actually end up damaging their car exterior/interior with chemicals and improper cleaning.
I would use a light PSI pressure washer (40 degree white tip and no more than 2000PSI with pref 2+ GPM) to remove loose dirt/debris, then bucket/microfiber mitt/sponge with high lube, PH neutral, soap that has no extra 'protection' etc. Start from the top and go down. If you want to clean wheels, do that before anything with completely separate tools. Rinse off with soft water preferably distilled and air dry off with leave blower (don't towel dry unless you want swirls). Then you need to add some protection.
I'm a big fan of ceramic coatings. They prevent dirt from sticking too hard, stop light swirl marks, and even prevent tiny paint chips from rocks (at the right angle). A high end coating is basically a thin clear coat and it actually fixes light clear coat imperfections after paint correction. You can DYI a more temporary coating, including a wax. If don't have any kind of protection including bare film (suntek ultra has a coating), stuff sticks and is hard to remove.
Hard water spots is the worst thing to deal with...can really do damage to a finish.
I wouldn't get too OSD about it though... its a car and its going to get some marks from usage. Don't be like that guy on Obsessed Garage on youtube who adds protection on protection, stresses over dirt on the car, keep it in an airtight bubble etc.
I would use a light PSI pressure washer (40 degree white tip and no more than 2000PSI with pref 2+ GPM) to remove loose dirt/debris, then bucket/microfiber mitt/sponge with high lube, PH neutral, soap that has no extra 'protection' etc. Start from the top and go down. If you want to clean wheels, do that before anything with completely separate tools. Rinse off with soft water preferably distilled and air dry off with leave blower (don't towel dry unless you want swirls). Then you need to add some protection.
I'm a big fan of ceramic coatings. They prevent dirt from sticking too hard, stop light swirl marks, and even prevent tiny paint chips from rocks (at the right angle). A high end coating is basically a thin clear coat and it actually fixes light clear coat imperfections after paint correction. You can DYI a more temporary coating, including a wax. If don't have any kind of protection including bare film (suntek ultra has a coating), stuff sticks and is hard to remove.
Hard water spots is the worst thing to deal with...can really do damage to a finish.
I wouldn't get too OSD about it though... its a car and its going to get some marks from usage. Don't be like that guy on Obsessed Garage on youtube who adds protection on protection, stresses over dirt on the car, keep it in an airtight bubble etc.
#24
I would NOT clay anything. You will add swirls... its should only be used on bad paint that you're going to polish anyway. Or glass maybe.
#25
Addict
Rennlist Member
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And yes the wheels will need a light polish after the clay to remove the swirls, this can be done by hand using a product like Meguiars 205 and a Microfiber applicator.
#26
The clay will definitely cause swirls but if a wheel cleaner isn’t removing the surface contaminant I’m not sure what else you could use to remove hardened brake dust. None of what you suggested would likely remove the hardened brake dust.....
And yes the wheels will need a light polish after the clay to remove the swirls, this can be done by hand using a product like Meguiars 205 and a Microfiber applicator.
#27
Rennlist Member
I'm sold on anything 3M, or Meguiars, now owned by 3M. They research and produce the top automotive products in the industry, and have for decades. I just don't trust guys who repackage stuff from unknown sources and put their name on it. 3M put on a detailing seminar for local Porsche club. They have not seen the benefits of ceramic coating, so I would stay away from that. I may use their Hybrid Ceramic Wax, but nothing too "permanent". Go with a high quality synthetic polish. One thing I learned at said seminar was that carnauba wax, which produces a great shine, will evaporate in higher heat environments.
#28
Rennlist Member
What's the latest on removing visor warning labels? The last time I used Goof-Off, it was just a bit too aggressive, but after three days with my "new" '14 Cayman, I have memorized them.