Too poor for a Clubsport, so...
#1
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Too poor for a Clubsport, so...
Clubsport wheel
Last edited by A432; 02-01-2019 at 11:39 AM.
#3
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Thanks, I did it fixed because for a road car I like a little more distance to the wheel. If you decided to go detachable, I'd use a shorter hub adapter than the Momo I used to keep the distance adjustable.
The smaller dia. wheel also blocks the very top of the gauges (since it was basically designed for the curved Motec) but you still see digital/tach 5500rpm+/fuel etc
(the pic is full up and full forward which gives a moderate bend at 9/3)
The smaller dia. wheel also blocks the very top of the gauges (since it was basically designed for the curved Motec) but you still see digital/tach 5500rpm+/fuel etc
(the pic is full up and full forward which gives a moderate bend at 9/3)
#5
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Looks nice! Profi's are good seats too.
#6
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Thanks. Yup the Profi has been a great track/street seat
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#8
#9
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#11
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Thanks Paul, here's the only pic I have of the seats while I was installing them. The driver seat is a Profi and the pax seat is a Pole Position.
The reason for using two different ones was that I wanted to do instruction demos and many people can't comfortably fit in a std. Profi, so the PP is a little more roomy/less aggressive.
This pic shows the difference in width/aggressiveness in the seats. It's still strongly recommended that you go sit in what you're considering because everyone's shape suits seats differently. (The Profi was perfect for me)
The reason for using two different ones was that I wanted to do instruction demos and many people can't comfortably fit in a std. Profi, so the PP is a little more roomy/less aggressive.
This pic shows the difference in width/aggressiveness in the seats. It's still strongly recommended that you go sit in what you're considering because everyone's shape suits seats differently. (The Profi was perfect for me)
#12
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Will be doing a 991 Cup switch horn retrofit next week sometime when I have time to drill the wheel.
#14
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