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Caragraphic header install prep

Old 01-11-2019, 03:41 PM
  #1  
djm68
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Default Caragraphic header install prep

I am preparing to install Cargraphic race headers on my 2012 Cayman R. I want to make sure I have the bases covered before I dig in:

Cobb Accessport since cats are being eliminated
New gaskets for exhaust manifold/head and from headers to catback portion of exhaust
Penetrant oil for existing header bolts
Anti-seize for header botls on install
I am planning to buy all new bolts for headers and for headers to catback portion of exhaust

Big question is: I am planning to have the headers either ceramic coated or wrapped by http://headershield.com. Pros/cons on either approach?

Anything I am missing?

Thanks,
DJM
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Old 01-11-2019, 06:37 PM
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gman3280
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Interested in your experience as I will be doing this to my 2010 CS. Seems like you are prepared. In the past I've had my headers Swaintech coated but I've heard good things about the Headershield other than how expensive it is...
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:25 PM
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Some titanium raps may reduce overall engine heat which could affect your JRZ coilover even with the remote canister. I will be installing the Cargraphic headers /cats with the wrap to assure my Ohlins are not impacted by the exhaust heat.. Both good stuff as the muffler can give enough engine noise. The wrap will also reduce heat around the bottom of the engine if stationary.

Last edited by Apex1; 01-15-2019 at 01:40 AM.
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Old 01-11-2019, 09:31 PM
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My '14 Cayman has both coating and wrap. If weight is not an issue, do both. However, there is one web site warning that if you wrap or coat the exhaust, in order to protect welds from rotting, coat the interior of the exhaust as well. Insulation on the outside increases the temperatures on the inside and welds can melt over time. The coating on the inside of the tubes insulates the welds from seeing too much heat.

V6
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Old 01-11-2019, 10:38 PM
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djm68
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Originally Posted by Apex1 View Post
Lovetoturn used a ceramic wrap from the beginning of the header to the muffler. He claims reduced heat which could affect your JRZ coilover even with the remote canister. I will be installing the Cargraphic headers /cats with the wrap to assure my Ohlins are not impacted by the exhaust heat. Also he claims less exhaust noise from the wrap. Both good stuff as the muffler can give enough engine noise. The wrap will also reduce heat around the bottom of the engine if stationary.
Hey Apex!

My primary reason for wanting to wrap my headers in reducing radiant heat from soaking the engine/gearbox and also the shocks. It is a 'best practice' according to most track prep shop. My R has PSE which I find too quiet, excited to hear her with real headers!

I have a bunch of business travel on the horizon so probably will not get to this until February, but will certainly follow-up with my impression.

Cheers,
DJM
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Old 01-13-2019, 10:28 AM
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What program do you plan on putting in the Cobb? The off the shelf maps do not eliminate the cel for the lack of cats. I had this issue even with a fabspeed protune which ultimately led to me uninstalling the headers. Would love to put them back on.
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Old 01-13-2019, 11:22 AM
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I installed (or tried to) Cargraphics headers (2nd cat delete; still have primary) about 3 months ago on a 2015 BGTS. Swaintech coated. Had new manifold and catback gaskets, as well as new bolts for both sides (engine and catback).

I don't have a lift so had the buggy up on jackstands. Primary issue I had was awkwardness of working on my back and positioning header for install. Disassembly was pretty straightforward; would recommend applying penetrant oil the night before to make getting corroded bolts off easier. I found it easiest to loosely attach catback portion to new header during install and leave some play to help with positioning header when putting in bolts that mount header to engine.

My problem came when I started cross-threading one of the header-to-engine mounting bolts (steel bolt + aluminum block = trouble). I could tell what was happening early on so backed out bolt. Tried to rethread but damage was done. Took to my local indy and they repaired and completed the job (got one side on myself; problem came on second side install).

I would say if you have a lift or are more limber than I am when working on your back, you'll do fine. Fabspeed has pretty good instructions for 981 header install (Header Install Procedure); you'll have to forgive me as IDK if a 2012 Cayman R is 987 or 981. Grinding down an E12 socket to help with some of the bolts was helpful. A "crow-foot" type socket for removing the O2 sensors is needed and the tight quarters means you'll have to get 'creative' when removing them.

I'm happy with the results. At idle, there's more of a bass rumble. At speed, there's no drone and with PSE engaged, it's definitely more aggressive sounding. Torque seems to come in a little bit earlier now (seemed like it was about 4-4.5K before; now it's more like 3.5-4K) and when it does come in, it seems to pull harder than before. No CEL issues. Had considered changing out catback portion of exhaust but think I'll hold off. Planning on doing a tune this coming spring and that'll be about it.
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DrBillyD View Post
I installed (or tried to) Cargraphics headers (2nd cat delete; still have primary) about 3 months ago on a 2015 BGTS. Swaintech coated. Had new manifold and catback gaskets, as well as new bolts for both sides (engine and catback).

I don't have a lift so had the buggy up on jackstands. Primary issue I had was awkwardness of working on my back and positioning header for install. Disassembly was pretty straightforward; would recommend applying penetrant oil the night before to make getting corroded bolts off easier. I found it easiest to loosely attach catback portion to new header during install and leave some play to help with positioning header when putting in bolts that mount header to engine.

My problem came when I started cross-threading one of the header-to-engine mounting bolts (steel bolt + aluminum block = trouble). I could tell what was happening early on so backed out bolt. Tried to rethread but damage was done. Took to my local indy and they repaired and completed the job (got one side on myself; problem came on second side install).

I would say if you have a lift or are more limber than I am when working on your back, you'll do fine. Fabspeed has pretty good instructions for 981 header install (Header Install Procedure); you'll have to forgive me as IDK if a 2012 Cayman R is 987 or 981. Grinding down an E12 socket to help with some of the bolts was helpful. A "crow-foot" type socket for removing the O2 sensors is needed and the tight quarters means you'll have to get 'creative' when removing them.

I'm happy with the results. At idle, there's more of a bass rumble. At speed, there's no drone and with PSE engaged, it's definitely more aggressive sounding. Torque seems to come in a little bit earlier now (seemed like it was about 4-4.5K before; now it's more like 3.5-4K) and when it does come in, it seems to pull harder than before. No CEL issues. Had considered changing out catback portion of exhaust but think I'll hold off. Planning on doing a tune this coming spring and that'll be about it.
Thanks for the informative post, DrBD. Cayman R is a 987.2. I forgot about the O2 sensors -- I'll look for a 'crow-foot' socket.

I'll do the install on a lift, Quickjacks at a minimum. I am fairly adept at wrenching and have spent a lot of time under my Cayman just using jack stands!

What size bolts/nuts did you use for the catback? I still need to source those.

Thanks,
DJM
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Old 01-13-2019, 06:33 PM
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Another question, been researching further and I think I want to replace the header bolts with studs. I am not able to find an application specific for 987.2, but these studs look as though they'd fit. Anyone know the length of the threaded part of the OEM header bolts?

Thanks,
DJM
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Old 01-13-2019, 07:48 PM
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Here is a picture of titanium studs from CMOOSE/Pistonheads. Sorry could not find the specs for the titanium studs. Source is" Courtesy of Poppopbangbang, he of mega-mile 996 fame". Cmoose sourced them in England.

Last edited by Apex1; 01-14-2019 at 02:00 AM.
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Old 01-13-2019, 11:45 PM
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Apex1,

Those are excellent! Had not even thought about Ti hardware. Where did you source those? A quick google search did not return anything.

Cheers!
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Old 01-14-2019, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by djm68 View Post
Apex1,

Those are excellent! Had not even thought about Ti hardware. Where did you source those? A quick google search did not return anything.

Cheers!
Sorry, I actually just remembered this thread from a couple of years ago from "Pistonheads, Cmoose, bore score 3.4 Cayman", page 18 I believe. He gives no real source but most likely a source around his home in England.
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Old 01-14-2019, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Metcalfe View Post
What program do you plan on putting in the Cobb? The off the shelf maps do not eliminate the cel for the lack of cats. I had this issue even with a fabspeed protune which ultimately led to me uninstalling the headers. Would love to put them back on.
Hi Metcalf,

Actually, I was planning on using the OTS map, I thought that would eliminate the CEL related to the deleted cats. Looks like I have more research to do...

Cheers,
DJM
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Old 01-14-2019, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by djm68 View Post
Apex1,

Those are excellent! Had not even thought about Ti hardware. Where did you source those? A quick google search did not return anything.

Cheers!
+1 Those are nice. Never worry about the steel to aluminum connection again.
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Old 01-14-2019, 01:25 PM
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https://www.ebsracing.com/ Search "exhaust stud" then click on exhaust

Looks like there are a few kits out there both aftermarket and OE Porsche but none specifically for the 987.2
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