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Damn, it's obvious people are not reading the thread... asking questions that have clearly already been answered lol
For those of us actually reading the thread, thanks for all the input!
Originally Posted by A432
Ok, here are the OBDII vs. CAN available lines on the Bosch DME (987.1 and 987.2 2.9)
CAN:
ECU_1 BOSCH_RPM RPM ECU_2 BOSCH_TPS Throttle position sensor ECU_3 BOSCH_PPS Pedal position sensor ECU_4 BOSCH_WHSPD_FL Front left wheel speed ECU_5 BOSCH_WHSPD_FR Front right wheel speed ECU_6 BOSCH_WHSPD_RL Rear left wheel speed ECU_7 BOSCH_WHSPD_RR Rear right wheel speed ECU_8 BOSCH_BOOST_P Boost pressure ECU_9 BOSCH_ECT Engine coolant temperature ECU_10 BOSCH_OIL_T Oil temperature ECU_11 BOSCH_OIL_P Oil pressure ECU_12 BOSCH_STEERANGLE Steering angle ECU_13 BOSCH_STEERSPEED Steering speed ECU_14 BOSCH_BRAKE_SW Brake switch ECU_15 BOSCH_GEAR Engaged gear ECU_16 BOSCH_FUEL_LEV Fuel level
So the CAN module in all Bosch DME-equipped 987.1 and base 987.2 models DOES indeed have the oil pressure and temp data. This is great news. I expected it to have pressure, but was counting on it having temp.
Originally Posted by djm68
Now that I am adding headers (no cats) I have a Cobb access port that I believe will be able to read (and display) oil temp/press over using only the ODBII port.
Your other option would be to contact the developer of the Torque app and see if you can get him (her?) to try and read CAN data via the ODBII port. Personally, I'd be willing to pay for such functionality.
Cheers,
DJM
I'm in Austin and last time I spoke with someone at Cobb, there wasn't a plan to offer software for the 987.1, but developing that function for the 987.1 would theoretically allow it to be used on any Porsche with the same Bosch DME unit (987.2 base) as well.
Originally Posted by djm68
On a 987.2, the CAN bus can be accessed in two locations: down under the drivers side dash, near the fuse array and in the back of the car, where the ECU is mounted. I selected the under dash area. As for the process itself: you find the two correct wires, carefully strip sections of insulation from each wire, use an electronics grade flux pen to prep the bare wire, solder the corresponding CAN 'tap' lines to the cars CAN bus wires. I used one of the fuses to supply switched power and found a ground. It takes patience and prep to do correctly, but is certainly do-able by a competent DIYer. I am good with work requiring fine motor skills and I practiced my soldering before doing the CAN tap on my car.
Although, it might seem like a PITA to tap your CAN bus, consider that most 'motorsport' electronics utilize direct CAN connections -- it is much faster than ODB2 thus produces much higher resolution data.
In anyone is interested in doing this, I can provide detailed instructions, just let me know. BTW, here is what my CAN tap looked like before install: CAN +/- plus power and ground. Note the quick disconnect in the middle: that allows you to swap out different devices and re-used the hardwired CAN connection.
Cheers,
DJM
There may be the option to upgrade to the newer CAN bus module to allow functionality from a newer vehicle. This might be an option since the harness you have taps directly into the CAN module without accessing the ECU (DME). I've done this to my other VW/Audi vehicles to gain functionality... bought a used CAN bus from a car 7 years newer in one case and coded it to using VAG-com software to work with a an older, different model of ECU. If the CAN modules are similar, it may be possible to do this using Durametric or something similar. I don't know if I'd personally do that to my Porsche unless a track car, but might be an option. Or perhaps the newer CAN module in the Porsche may not even need recoding?
That would be a great solution if it can read the needed CAN data over the ODB2 port -- my guess is it will not do so, "Here are some examples of what you can expect to see (varies by vehicle)" I had a Scanguage2 that I used on my 2009 Powerstroke diesel; plug it into the ODB2 port and I could see trans temp, engine temp, oil temp, etc. Plug the same thing into my Cayman R and I only see the basics.
Notable: "Aftermarket ECUs – The aftermarket ECU version of the iDash includes a power and CAN harness that you wire directly to your aftermarket ECU. Once connected, the iDash will be able to read many of the internal parameters of your standalone ECU such as AFR, knock, EGT and much more." It seems as though, if you are willing to tap into your CAN bus, this might be able to read oil temp/press etc.
DJM
That's as simple as use the aftermarket ECU harness available from Banks and tap the CAN lines. Job done.
Agreed it is simple enough...if you are willing to tap your CAN bus. The OP and a few other on the thread were looking for 'plug and play' solutions.
DJM
Sometimes there is no plug and play answer for slightly older rides. The wealth of information available on the CAN that could be logged and reviewed would be worth the minor effort to tap those lines. If you are playing at the track keeping detailed tabs on the car is something you should be doing. I think we'd agree on that as well.
That's as simple as use the aftermarket ECU harness available from Banks and tap the CAN lines. Job done.
Originally Posted by venom51
Sometimes there is no plug and play answer for slightly older rides. The wealth of information available on the CAN that could be logged and reviewed would be worth the minor effort to tap those lines. If you are playing at the track keeping detailed tabs on the car is something you should be doing. I think we'd agree on that as well.
Since I long ago tapped my CAN bus, it is worth while for my use case, I can not speak for others. The OP simply wants to see his oil temp while occasionally tracking which, as he points out, can be easily seen on his BRZ and I could easily see on my '09 Ford van.
I can confirm that the Cobb has an accurate oil temp/press reading/logging through the OBDII on the Siemens DME...so it's def. in the OBDII line on the DFI cars, just have to program for it.
Unfortunately Cobb didn't program for the Bosch DME so this is only for the DFI cars.
1) what is the model number and cost for the Cobb unit in your picture?
2) I use the OBD port for other stuff on the track -- a Bluetooth sender into my Harry's. Is there a device to split the ODB output into 2 devices -- my Bluetooth sender and the Cobb?
1) what is the model number and cost for the Cobb unit in your picture?
The 987.2 model is the AP3-POR-008 but there is only one model per car model, the main differences are in the maps...$895 with all maps (stock/econ/91/93/100)
2) I use the OBD port for other stuff on the track -- a Bluetooth sender into my Harry's. Is there a device to split the ODB output into 2 devices -- my Bluetooth sender and the Cobb?
Yes you can buy an OBDII splitter, however I haven't tested it in this application. I'd recommend track guys instead consider a CAN linked SOLO DL for accurate track data (much more accurate than Harry's)
I hooked up a SOLO DL to my 987.2 did the Can bus integration, reads oil temp in real time perfectly and yes there is a big difference between coolant and oil. My coolant never gets too hot, even 100 degree HPDE days. I've never gone into limp mode on the car, but oil can push up to 250 with no coolant change. Pretty easy DIY if you can solder. Solo DL version 1 is really inexpensive right now btw since the V2 came out.
I love the look of that Banks unit though - looks like it might fit right into the stopwatch mount on the dash?? Although doesn't look like ECU is supported.
Manual or PDK? How many miles? Which track? Which Club? I would not worry about the oil temp at a DE. Been tracking my 2009 Boxster since Oct 2017. I seldom if ever see the water temp move off of normal. Buy a liter of Porsche coolant (Pentofos) and make sure the coolant is at minimum. I switched to 5W-50 Mobil1 which is Porsche's recommended "summer" oil as recommended by Pedro from PCA Tech. Watch for the Summit Racing sales on 5W-50 oil. It is not available in the larger jugs or box stores. Mobil 1 0W-40 is more than adequate. Visually inspect your two radiators in the front to make sure you don't have any leaves or other debris. I have carefully blasted them from the back side in the wheel well using a pressure washer. Your biggest wear item will be the front brake pads. OEM pads will stop you fine, but quickly wear. Make sure you have at least 1/2 or more of your front brake pads. Depending on who you run with an annual or more recent brake flush may be required. If you continue to DE recommend switching to a dedicated track pad and rotor and a racing brake fluid like ATP 200. I use HAWK DTC 60 for the front and OEM on the back. Track pads are too squeaky for the street. Once you have remove the Porsche OEM silencer from the front calibers you can change pads without removing the calipers. Several YouTubes if you are DIY inclined. I run Michelin Sport 4S tires. See the Tire Rack test.
I found them - White/yellow and White/black twisted pair. Caution there are two sets of White/yellow and White/black twisted pairs on my 987.2 base. I used the red Posi-tap connectors to tap the wires and I run it to my VBox Lite data logger. I am supposed to be able to see oil temperature - will let you know after test.
I found them - White/yellow and White/black twisted pair. Caution there are two sets of White/yellow and White/black twisted pairs on my 987.2 base. I used the red Posi-tap connectors to tap the wires and I run it to my VBox Lite data logger. I am supposed to be able to see oil temperature - will let you know after test.
On my 987.2 base Cayman, tapped into the CAN lines, using AIM Solo 2 DL, I am reading oil temp, coolant, and oil pressure. The coolant matches what I think it should be, but the oil temp reads about 50F lower than I think it should. The oil pressure also reads low, for example on a straight at 5700 RPM it shows 34 PSI, Coolant 200F and Oil Temp 168F (this is near the end of a session, not at the beginning after a cold start). On my 986 Boxster, oil usually ran around 20F hotter or more than the coolant. And on graphs from the 987.2 S cars, the oil reads hotter than the coolant. I know the computers are different between the 2.9 and the 3.4, but I feel the sensors are probably in the same locations on the engines. I don't think the AIM profile that they say to use for the 2.9 cars is very accurate with respect to the 2.9 cars for these metrics. If I were to add 50F to the oil temp, and bout 25PSI to the oil pressure, then the graphs would look like I expect.
When you get your oil temp and pressure or other readings, please share back. Does the VBOX have a specific CAN profile for the 2.9 cars, or does it have you use a profile from another car, like the 997_GT3 profile recommended by AIM for the 2.9 cars?
01-02-2019, 01:36 PM
