Secondary Air System Not Ready. Emissions Test
12-11-2018, 12:27 PM
#1
Secondary Air System Not Ready. Emissions Test
Cannot pass emissions test due to:
Evaporative System Not Ready
Secondary Air System Not Ready
I followed the instructions below and my Durametrics said they were ready. But when I got there, I failed. Can a dealer force the ready option? My air system works and blows when I start the car. I've driven it many months without unplugging battery.
Any other options? Thank you.
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear* for approx 5 mins.
1..As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump andEVAP purge.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.
just hold the following RPM ranges from 2-5 minutes:
Idle
1500
2000
2500
3000
Idle
the checks usually happen before the 5 minutes is up, but without a scan tool hooked up you won't know when it happens.
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear* for approx 5 mins.
1..As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump andEVAP purge.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.
just hold the following RPM ranges from 2-5 minutes:
Idle
1500
2000
2500
3000
Idle
the checks usually happen before the 5 minutes is up, but without a scan tool hooked up you won't know when it happens.
----------------------------------------------
1) RESET your OBD the night before doing this drive (do this even if you have no CEL)
2) Cold start the car and drive 25 highway miles doing 60-70mph in 6th gear (SUV style). Leave the scanner connected.
3) Pull over, turn off car, restart.
4) Continue driving 60-70mph in 6th gear until the CAT and HTR monitors get set. This should happen in about 20 minutes.
5) Idle a minute or so. EVAP will set.
The above drive sets 3 monitors you need to get tested everywhere except CA. CA needs a 4th monitor set (still avoiding AIR) so additional driving needs to be done, just not sure what that is yet. Stay tuned.
Something else: this technique will NOT work for some (probably all) 96's. That's because they don't display monitors being ready until all 5 are ready. For this to work, the car needs to be able to report monitors going ready one at a time. 97's can do this. Not sure about 98's.
------------------------------------
STEP 1: RESET the OBD2 system using the OBD2 reader (or disconnect/reconnect the car battery). This will clear any faults and make all 5 monitors NOT READY, which is want you want. Do this the night before or right before starting the procedure.
STEP 2: Find a place to drive a minimum of 20 miles at less than 60mph and less than 3000 RPMs. 55 in 5th gear works fine. Cruise control helps. I believe this can be done in different segments provided the car isn’t turned off until the 20 miles is completed, but to make sure, start out by doing it all at once. It’s faster that way too.
STEP 3: Turn car off, remove key, restart. Don’t let the car cooldown. All 5 monitors should still be off. May not be necessary to remove the key but that’s the way I did it. I let the car sit for at least a minute before restarting.
STEP 4: Repeat steps 2 and 3
All 5 monitors should still be off.
STEP 5: Repeat step 2. Somewhere between 13 and 18 miles into this leg the CAT and O2 Heater monitors will go READY. Sometimes EVAP goes ready at the same time. If not. Do step 6.
STEP 6: Come to a stop without turning the car off and idle in neutral until the EVAP monitor goes ready. This should take less than 5 minutes. You now have the required THREE monitors ready.
Evaporative System Not Ready
Secondary Air System Not Ready
I followed the instructions below and my Durametrics said they were ready. But when I got there, I failed. Can a dealer force the ready option? My air system works and blows when I start the car. I've driven it many months without unplugging battery.
Any other options? Thank you.
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear* for approx 5 mins.
1..As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump andEVAP purge.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.
just hold the following RPM ranges from 2-5 minutes:
Idle
1500
2000
2500
3000
Idle
the checks usually happen before the 5 minutes is up, but without a scan tool hooked up you won't know when it happens.
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear* for approx 5 mins.
1..As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defrost on. OBDII checks oxygen sensor heater circuits, air pump andEVAP purge.
2. Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks for ignition misfire, fuel trim and canister purge.
3. Hold at a steady state speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
OBDII monitors EGR, air pump, O2 sensors and canister purge.
4. Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch. OBDII checks EGR and purge functions.
5. Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at half throttle. OBDII checks misfire, fuel trim and purge again.
6. Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
OBDII monitors catalytic converter efficiency, misfire, EGR, fuel trim, oxygen sensors and purge functions.
7. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking. OBDII makes a final check of EGR and canister purge.
just hold the following RPM ranges from 2-5 minutes:
Idle
1500
2000
2500
3000
Idle
the checks usually happen before the 5 minutes is up, but without a scan tool hooked up you won't know when it happens.
----------------------------------------------
1) RESET your OBD the night before doing this drive (do this even if you have no CEL)
2) Cold start the car and drive 25 highway miles doing 60-70mph in 6th gear (SUV style). Leave the scanner connected.
3) Pull over, turn off car, restart.
4) Continue driving 60-70mph in 6th gear until the CAT and HTR monitors get set. This should happen in about 20 minutes.
5) Idle a minute or so. EVAP will set.
The above drive sets 3 monitors you need to get tested everywhere except CA. CA needs a 4th monitor set (still avoiding AIR) so additional driving needs to be done, just not sure what that is yet. Stay tuned.
Something else: this technique will NOT work for some (probably all) 96's. That's because they don't display monitors being ready until all 5 are ready. For this to work, the car needs to be able to report monitors going ready one at a time. 97's can do this. Not sure about 98's.
------------------------------------
STEP 1: RESET the OBD2 system using the OBD2 reader (or disconnect/reconnect the car battery). This will clear any faults and make all 5 monitors NOT READY, which is want you want. Do this the night before or right before starting the procedure.
STEP 2: Find a place to drive a minimum of 20 miles at less than 60mph and less than 3000 RPMs. 55 in 5th gear works fine. Cruise control helps. I believe this can be done in different segments provided the car isn’t turned off until the 20 miles is completed, but to make sure, start out by doing it all at once. It’s faster that way too.
STEP 3: Turn car off, remove key, restart. Don’t let the car cooldown. All 5 monitors should still be off. May not be necessary to remove the key but that’s the way I did it. I let the car sit for at least a minute before restarting.
STEP 4: Repeat steps 2 and 3
All 5 monitors should still be off.
STEP 5: Repeat step 2. Somewhere between 13 and 18 miles into this leg the CAT and O2 Heater monitors will go READY. Sometimes EVAP goes ready at the same time. If not. Do step 6.
STEP 6: Come to a stop without turning the car off and idle in neutral until the EVAP monitor goes ready. This should take less than 5 minutes. You now have the required THREE monitors ready.
12-27-2018, 11:59 AM
#2
2005 Boxster Base. I don't hear the fan coming on from a cold start. I'm not sure if it is because of the not ready status. No check engine lights. Connected the Durametric and I am able to turn on the secondary air injector fan when the car is off. My durametric tool doesn't turn on devices while on (durametric issue).
I went through plenty of different drive cycles. Still have
Evaporative System Not Ready
Secondary Air System Not Ready
Any ideas? Thank you.
I went through plenty of different drive cycles. Still have
Evaporative System Not Ready
Secondary Air System Not Ready
Any ideas? Thank you.
03-25-2019, 11:57 AM
#3
Well, 850 miles later and still shows not ready. The secondary fan started normally like 5 or 6 times. It kicked in for 1 or 2 minutes like normal. Then when I turned it on again, it didn't start. a hundred or so miles later it started again.
I looked at under the wheel well and the connection to the tank looks good. I looked inside the engine and didn't see any disconnected hoses, although I didn't remove the intake manifold (secondary air fan is under manifold). I had replaced the gas cap many months ago but I'll try a new one once more.
2005 Boxster 70k. Engine was replaced by a Porsche dealership like 25k ago due to IMS concerns by previous owner. So a new engine.
Thanks.
I looked at under the wheel well and the connection to the tank looks good. I looked inside the engine and didn't see any disconnected hoses, although I didn't remove the intake manifold (secondary air fan is under manifold). I had replaced the gas cap many months ago but I'll try a new one once more.
2005 Boxster 70k. Engine was replaced by a Porsche dealership like 25k ago due to IMS concerns by previous owner. So a new engine.
Thanks.
Last edited by assyrianme; 03-25-2019 at 03:30 PM.
05-06-2019, 10:27 AM
#4
2000 miles later and still
secondary air system not ready
fuel tank ventilation not ready
I'm driving on expired plates since the dealership says you need to drive it and the DMV says I can't drive unless I pass emissions. Ugh
secondary air system not ready
fuel tank ventilation not ready
I'm driving on expired plates since the dealership says you need to drive it and the DMV says I can't drive unless I pass emissions. Ugh
10-14-2020, 04:54 PM
#5
After 10k miles and 1 1/2 years expired plates, the DME / ECU was changed. The barometer settings were not being updated and the sensor is on the DME. That was the cause of the not ready and since I had two of them not ready, Illinois won't do the test.
The DME was programmed at a dealership and only a dealership can do it. Once changed, only the secondary air was not ready, but good enough for a pass. I'm finally legal now.
The DME was programmed at a dealership and only a dealership can do it. Once changed, only the secondary air was not ready, but good enough for a pass. I'm finally legal now.
