Question on Brake Bleeding & Photos of My New Brakes - Girodisc
#16
Rennlist Member
Completely agree - I thought that was the whole point that it could pressurize with fluid transfer. Never dawned on me to use it for pressurizing only.
Question though - I use it about every 6 months - is there any problem with storing extra fresh fluid it in for that long?
Question though - I use it about every 6 months - is there any problem with storing extra fresh fluid it in for that long?
#17
Completely agree - I thought that was the whole point that it could pressurize with fluid transfer. Never dawned on me to use it for pressurizing only.
Question though - I use it about every 6 months - is there any problem with storing extra fresh fluid it in for that long?
Question though - I use it about every 6 months - is there any problem with storing extra fresh fluid it in for that long?
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
Considering the relatively inexpensive cost of brake fluid, I use new every time rather than take the chance of it absorbing water or humidity during storage. Also, whenever I do my brakes, I flush the system which pretty much uses a complete quart of fluid.
#19
Rennlist Member
Bottom line it is not immune to it, although it seems to be less problematic.
So would you also discard any left over fluid - period - rather than let it sit in the ATE can for 6 months until the next change?
#20
Rennlist Member
I also like filling the Motive bleeder. I use Castrol SRF and clean the container by pumping a few ounces of denatured alcohol through it when I’ m done .
As stated above, the Motive bleeder is also a very good way to bleed the clutch slave cylinder. Waiting for someone to make a remote cable to bleed the slave cylinder on a Cayman, since it’s a pain to get to the clutch bleeder valve.
As stated above, the Motive bleeder is also a very good way to bleed the clutch slave cylinder. Waiting for someone to make a remote cable to bleed the slave cylinder on a Cayman, since it’s a pain to get to the clutch bleeder valve.
#21
Rennlist Member
I use the Motive with the dry method and have never had an issue. I've modified it a little though as indicated in the following thread (with part #'s, etc). I just hate the clean up with the wet method.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ethod-use.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ethod-use.html
#22
Rennlist Member
I use the Motive with the dry method and have never had an issue. I've modified it a little though as indicated in the following thread (with part #'s, etc). I just hate the clean up with the wet method.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ethod-use.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ethod-use.html
#23
Rennlist Member
It really is. I've been using mine that way since that forum post first came out......so since 2011 on multiple cars with no issues. The modification parts I purchased have held up very well and everything is still pressure tight just like it was when I first did it.
#24
Rennlist Member
Anyone know of a tutorial or similar on pads/rotors. I usually just dive into these things but I expect there’s stuff/procedures i.d miss. And as we all know it’s best to best to not skip procedures with brake work.
#25
Rennlist Member
The DIY route is, in my humble opinion, your cart blanche to acquire a few new tools. They can make life a lot easier and you'll feel like the pro from Dover using them. For example, I never used to use a pad spreader. I do now, and I love it. Ditto items like an impact driver for stubborn rotor retaining screws. These items are easily offset by the $$ saved in doing the work, so why not treat yourself.
One of the best mechanics I've observed would lay everything out and treat the whole event like a proper dental or surgical procedure. I've tried to emulate the approach. Research, Prep, Methodically Proceed, Check, Double Check, etc.
Good luck!
Dave
#26
RE. draining the brake fluid reservoir too low, I have always used my Motive Bleeder dry & I use this simple solution to prevent draining the brake fluid reservoir too low & introducing air into the system.
The first step in a brake system flush is to remove most of the brake fluid from the reservoir (you want to stay above the pick up point) & refill with fresh fluid, so simply put the fluid you take from the reservoir into your catch bottle that you use at the cylinders & mark the level on the bottle. As long as you use the same marked catch bottle for a vehicle & don't drain fluid above the mark you won't introduce air into the system by draining the reservoir too low.
The first step in a brake system flush is to remove most of the brake fluid from the reservoir (you want to stay above the pick up point) & refill with fresh fluid, so simply put the fluid you take from the reservoir into your catch bottle that you use at the cylinders & mark the level on the bottle. As long as you use the same marked catch bottle for a vehicle & don't drain fluid above the mark you won't introduce air into the system by draining the reservoir too low.
#27
Rennlist Member
Forum threads and YouTube videos are your friends for this. I've not found any one that covers it all just right, so it pays to watch a few until you've essentially "seen" the entire process. It's one of those things that, in my experience, is easier seen than described. Once you've seen / read enough to be comfortable, just make sure you have the right tools and about 3x the time it should take. Ask me how I know :-)
The DIY route is, in my humble opinion, your cart blanche to acquire a few new tools. They can make life a lot easier and you'll feel like the pro from Dover using them. For example, I never used to use a pad spreader. I do now, and I love it. Ditto items like an impact driver for stubborn rotor retaining screws. These items are easily offset by the $$ saved in doing the work, so why not treat yourself.
One of the best mechanics I've observed would lay everything out and treat the whole event like a proper dental or surgical procedure. I've tried to emulate the approach. Research, Prep, Methodically Proceed, Check, Double Check, etc.
Good luck!
Dave
The DIY route is, in my humble opinion, your cart blanche to acquire a few new tools. They can make life a lot easier and you'll feel like the pro from Dover using them. For example, I never used to use a pad spreader. I do now, and I love it. Ditto items like an impact driver for stubborn rotor retaining screws. These items are easily offset by the $$ saved in doing the work, so why not treat yourself.
One of the best mechanics I've observed would lay everything out and treat the whole event like a proper dental or surgical procedure. I've tried to emulate the approach. Research, Prep, Methodically Proceed, Check, Double Check, etc.
Good luck!
Dave
#28
Rennlist Member
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...rake_Discs.htm
#29
Rennlist Member
#30
Burning Brakes
I had an interesting failure week before last which might help you decide which method, my Motive bleeder hose sprung a leak and made a nice little geyser of brake fluid, I put a towel around it and the hose came in half, filling the towel and another before the pressure went down. Wacky but I think I'll try the dry method when I get my new Motive... Cheers, Donn