KEY FOB Replacement Suggestions
#16
THIS!!! I have to say that I was thinking this was BUNK (😁 but I was at my wits end as to why my key fob had become SOOOO unreliable so I decided to give it a shot. I had changed batteries, cleaned and adjusted contacts, to no avail. I didn’t believe it needed to be “re-paired” because it WAS working, just intermittently. To make matters worse, my dealer (and Rennlist) had helped me figure out how to program the key fob on my 981 to lower and raise my windows (that’s a whole OTHER topic) - a feature that I had gotten VERY used to in hot Florida!!! Needless to say, an unreliable key fob made that feature USELESS. Anyway, this was EASY and fixed my problem, THANK YOU!!! -Dom
OK....now that you have that done...How do you raise and lower the windows with the key fob?
#17
Windows open/close using the remote control
First CU (Required for all window options):
CU = PAS
Coding => Comfort via radio remote control => (Currently set to lock or inactive) => Change to Release (Note: The wording maybe "Active" depending on PIWIS version but for all Release = Active and Inactive = Lock).
Coding => Comfort function Window => As above set to release
Coding => Door and Window Comfort Function => As above set to release
OK back to the window functions, the next steps have to be coded for each door separately so I will only list it once:
CU = Drivers Door / Passenger Door:
(Window Close)
Coding => Close Comfort => Set to release as before
-Dom
#18
Just recently purchased my 2006 Carrera S. DID NOT CHECK THE SPARE KEY (Key 2) when I picked up the car. After a week or so I went to use it and NO WORK! The key's buttons open the trunk and open and lock the doors. You put the key in the ignition and it is recognized by the car, dash display says "KEY 2. You can turn it to the left (accessory ) but cannot turn it to the right to start the car. Went by my local Porsche shop who told me I'd have to go to the dealer on this one.
Well after making an appointment and finally getting in, there was a charge of $110.00 for them to check to find problem. A few hours later they called and said 1) Base key defective, 2) As key head bad. So they had to order me another key which Porsche cuts from the VIN #.
I will be going back this Tuesday when the key comes in and pay another $110 for them to program the new key....
So, cost for first visit: 1) $110.00 Labor charge, 2) Base Key Def $195.37, 3) As Key Head $274.77 = $580.14 + Sales Tax $ 622.45. With the service/labor charge when key comes in, another $110. TOTAL COST FOR NEW SECOND KEY = $732.45!
Ouch!
Well after making an appointment and finally getting in, there was a charge of $110.00 for them to check to find problem. A few hours later they called and said 1) Base key defective, 2) As key head bad. So they had to order me another key which Porsche cuts from the VIN #.
I will be going back this Tuesday when the key comes in and pay another $110 for them to program the new key....
So, cost for first visit: 1) $110.00 Labor charge, 2) Base Key Def $195.37, 3) As Key Head $274.77 = $580.14 + Sales Tax $ 622.45. With the service/labor charge when key comes in, another $110. TOTAL COST FOR NEW SECOND KEY = $732.45!
Ouch!
Last edited by 1940Woodie; 04-22-2018 at 08:05 PM. Reason: in wrong forum
#19
Windows open/close with the key in the door lock
Windows open/close using the remote control
Windows drop by 2-3 inches when you open the rear hatch (allows you to drop the hatch shut rather than having to press on it).
First CU (Required for all window options):
CU = PAS
Coding => Comfort via radio remote control => (Currently set to lock or inactive) => Change to Release (Note: The wording maybe "Active" depending on PIWIS version but for all Release = Active and Inactive = Lock). Coding => Comfort function Window => As above set to release
Coding => Door and Window Comfort Function => As above set to release
** While the dealer is in this unit he can also change to delays for the keys and the way the doors lock after starting the engine or driving off I will not detail these as most of the dealers know how to do these, but what I will say is that these have to be programmed for each key individually. The other coding for the PAS does not need separate coding for each key. If the dealer does not know how to change the locks.....ok I will bite my tongue.
OK back to the window functions, the next steps have to be coded for each door separately so I will only list it once:
CU = Drivers Door / Passenger Door:
(Window Open)
Coding => Open Comfort => Set to release as before
(Window Close)
Coding => Close Comfort => Set to release as before
(Windows Drop when opening hatch)
Coding => Window short stroke by Lugg Comp Op => Set to release as before
-Dom
#20
Rennlist Member
I would like to report that the key "pairing" worked for me, but it did not.
I've tried various iterations, so I am of the opinion that I probably just have a bad second key fob.
I did verify that the physical key works in the locks, I had a suspicion that the dealer may have given me the wrong second key initially, but have ruled that out.
Thanks for your help.
I've tried various iterations, so I am of the opinion that I probably just have a bad second key fob.
I did verify that the physical key works in the locks, I had a suspicion that the dealer may have given me the wrong second key initially, but have ruled that out.
Thanks for your help.
#21
Rennlist Member
Update: One of my original keys finally came apart so many times, pieces of plastic were actually missing. Tragedy was just one more 'drop' away. No more. Found this and couldn't be happier with the work. If your key still works, but the case is cracked, falling apart, and not staying together... it is a great option.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/We-Will-Upg...df6c%7Ciid%3A1
Got my reworked key back today. It maintained coding to the car, looks absolutely perfect, and solved the problem... all at a fraction of the costs mentioned above.
No commercial interest, just a very happy customer.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/We-Will-Upg...df6c%7Ciid%3A1
Got my reworked key back today. It maintained coding to the car, looks absolutely perfect, and solved the problem... all at a fraction of the costs mentioned above.
No commercial interest, just a very happy customer.
#22
I can tell you my experience with key replacement for my 981:
My car came with one key, which even didn't have the valet key inside and the key itself didn't look that great. I did my research and it seemed that buying aftermarket cheap copies is a gamble and many dealerships even don't program keys which is not purchased at their shop. I negotiated with my dealer a good price for 2 keys and they programmed all 3 keys (including the old half key). One fact to know: whether if they program 1 key or 10 keys, you pay the same price, which was 125 at my dealership. Altogether I paid 700 for the 2 new keys, which is still ridiculously high. But when you consider that even a kia key costs around 200 bucks (without programming) I would say, the Porsche keys were not that crazy.
My car came with one key, which even didn't have the valet key inside and the key itself didn't look that great. I did my research and it seemed that buying aftermarket cheap copies is a gamble and many dealerships even don't program keys which is not purchased at their shop. I negotiated with my dealer a good price for 2 keys and they programmed all 3 keys (including the old half key). One fact to know: whether if they program 1 key or 10 keys, you pay the same price, which was 125 at my dealership. Altogether I paid 700 for the 2 new keys, which is still ridiculously high. But when you consider that even a kia key costs around 200 bucks (without programming) I would say, the Porsche keys were not that crazy.