When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So I used a nice morosso air oil sep and fittings... and followed Pure Whites instructions, but made my own mount so that it would fit on the existing studs that appear to have been put there for me. No dirty valves for this car. I need it to last for the rest of my life.
So I used a nice morosso air oil sep and fittings... and followed Pure Whites instructions, but made my own mount so that it would fit on the existing studs that appear to have been put there for me. No dirty valves for this car. I need it to last for the rest of my life.
Can you share the part number of that Moroso air-oil separator please?
Still waiting to see evidence of the expected epidemic of dirty valves that has long been prophesied by certain engine rebuilders.
Yeah is this a documented issue? I know some engines (like the V8 in the B7 RS4) had problems with carbon buildup but hadn't heard of it with the 981. Every DI engine is gonna have some buildup.
Interesting thread. Can some please give me some background info on this? I am a mere Porsche owner with mechanical abilities dating back to the 60' and 70's. Thank you.
All the direct injection cars I had worked on have it. Mine won't.
"Every DI engine is gonna have some buildup." - Not mine.
Why would you take the word of the Engineer - Porsche Mechanic when denial leading to inaction is so much easier?
Not sure where you got the "not mine" part from. Plus I specifically didn't deny it, just wondering about its real-world impact. In other words, is this problem severe enough where the loss in hp is going to be noticeable in daily driving?
Not sure where you got the "not mine" part from. Plus I specifically didn't deny it, just wondering about its real-world impact. In other words, is this problem severe enough where the loss in hp is going to be noticeable in daily driving?
I'd be willing to bet a donut that if you did a dyno run on a 981 engine with 50,000 miles on it before and after a walnut shell cleaning of the intake ports you will see a statistically significant increase in power after the cleaning. Can you tell this in daily driving? Don't know. The deposit buildup is so gradual you probably will not be able to tell it by butt dyno over the several years it takes to build up. I was in the top of my engine area last week and removed the tube for inspection that leads from the air-oil separator to the intake manifold and it was completely coated in oil, although none came dripping out quickly when I tipped it up on end. My finger inside the hole in the intake manifold where the tube connects found a wet oily coating as well. This is all normal, my car does not consume oil at any discernible rate between oil changes of 3k to 4k miles, including track day use in there as well. If you don't plan to keep a car very long, it's probably not worth thinking about. I plan to keep mine a long time.
I'd be willing to bet a donut that if you did a dyno run on a 981 engine with 50,000 miles on it before and after a walnut shell cleaning of the intake ports you will see a statistically significant increase in power after the cleaning. Can you tell this in daily driving? Don't know. The deposit buildup is so gradual you probably will not be able to tell it by butt dyno over the several years it takes to build up. I was in the top of my engine area last week and removed the tube for inspection that leads from the air-oil separator to the intake manifold and it was completely coated in oil, although none came dripping out quickly when I tipped it up on end. My finger inside the hole in the intake manifold where the tube connects found a wet oily coating as well. This is all normal, my car does not consume oil at any discernible rate between oil changes of 3k to 4k miles, including track day use in there as well. If you don't plan to keep a car very long, it's probably not worth thinking about. I plan to keep mine a long time.
Are we talking Krispy Kreme or the ones that come in a pink box from the hole in the wall around the corner?
I agree there'll be a difference in performance, but it's really about how much. Personally I do plan on keeping mine for a long time but if I'm losing 20 hp at 7k RPM, I'm not gonna worry about it. If I'm losing 40 hp at 4k RPM, then yeah, that's something to address. In the meantime, I'm mitigating it by making sure the oil comes to temp every time I drive, drive it hard once in a while but never exceeding redline. Babying it isn't in the way to go.
I wouldn't be surprised if manufacturers add intake valve cleaning as a maintenance item done at specific internals. But with the ICE in decline, maybe not.
I wouldn't be surprised if manufacturers add intake valve cleaning as a maintenance item done at specific internals. But with the ICE in decline, maybe not.
Audi tried to convince me to spring for it when my 2012 A4 hit 30K miles.
I haven't looked into the technicalities of what you have.. Does it still provide a partial vacuum for the crankcase?
I can't see how there's any partial vacuum at any time in the crankcase with the AOS vented through a filter to atmospheric pressure. With the OEM setup, when your throttle is wide open, I don't think there's much vacuum in the line from the intake manifold to the AOS, but at part throttle, yes. The AOS that d00d used in his GT4 Pure White Journal thread made by Mann-Hummel is rated for engines up to 325 hp and the amount of crankcase blow-by gasses they can generate, with reserve to spare. Not much chance for pressure to buildup in the crankcase. The Mann-Hummel AOS also has a pressure relief safety valve to prevent pressure buildup through it's gas flow routes.
03-28-2018, 07:49 PM
Finally got this done... no dirty valves for me
