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2013 Boxster S 6MT: what is it worth?

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Old 02-25-2018, 06:30 PM
  #16  
hf1
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OP, is this the same car that you decided to buy in early Jan for $39k?
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Old 02-25-2018, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by hf1 View Post
OP, is this the same car that you decided to buy in early Jan for $39k?
No, that car got traded in a few hours before I got back to him; he told me his wife fell in love with a Macan and that was that. This one is super close though; I have been searching for awhile, almost the same build. It seemed to be worth a bit more, or perhaps it is just me.
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Old 02-27-2018, 02:35 AM
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Edmunds prices this car at $32,000 private sale; $39,000 dealer trade retail. I thought Archimedes was low-balling it, but I think he may be right.

Then again, Hagerty is valuing 2004 Boxster S at $12k.

Last edited by 981S2013; 02-27-2018 at 11:01 AM. Reason: Fox typo
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Old 02-27-2018, 09:04 AM
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Numbers flipped? Private sale would almost always be higher than dealer trade. Need to add some value for the CPO warranty. I think it still gets to low 40s.
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Old 02-27-2018, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Pep!RRRR View Post
Numbers flipped? Private sale would almost always be higher than dealer trade. Need to add some value for the CPO warranty. I think it still gets to low 40s.
oooops you’re right - well, numbers weren’t flipped but I used “dealer trade” when I should have used “dealer retail.” Post edited. Thanks
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Old 02-27-2018, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 981S2013 View Post
Edmunds prices this car at $32,000 private sale; $39,000 dealer trade retail. I thought Archimedes was low-balling it, but I think he may be right.

Then again, Hagerty is valuing 2004 Boxster S at $12k.
I wonder how Edmunds derived those numbers. Just for the hell of it I just went to a dealer that uses the KBB buy it now price. I put my car's condition as good and not outstanding, and the price they came up with was $38,400, and the site didn't capture all my options.
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Old 02-28-2018, 11:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Archimedes View Post
Can't really offer much that KBB can't do better, but I would strongly suggest that you get a PPI, with an overrun report, before you make any offers. Also go on cars.com or autotrader to get some pricing ranges, then take 10% off that to account for the bid ask spread.
Is an overrun really all that damning when considering a used car? I didn't get a PPI as I bought from a reputable dealer and it still has 3 years left on the CPO, but some folks on here seem to consider it a death sentence. Is it REALLY that big a deal, and why?

Originally Posted by Phil G. View Post
KG - you and I messaged before. You know I have an essentially new 2016 Boxster S with 680 miles on the clock. It might be available if anyone is interested or would like details. PM me.
^For the love of God please, someone buy Phil's car off of him.

I also agree with most on here, a clean well-optioned MANUAL 981S will sell for over $40k even with a handful of miles. Anything less should be considered a steal, despite what KBB values are currently. There just simply aren't many out there to choose from so it is a seller's market for sure.

I will advise against the base stereo though. The Bose is not great, but it's serviceable. The base system is probably best left to talk radio, or turned off.
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Old 03-01-2018, 11:51 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by manifold danger View Post
For the love of God please, someone buy Phil's car off of him.
Ha! Really not desperate to sell. May change my mind altogether once Spring arrives and the 981S comes out of its winter hibernation. I'll be reevaluating in a month. It really is brand new, no excuses car!
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Old 03-01-2018, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil G. View Post
Ha! Really not desperate to sell. May change my mind altogether once Spring arrives and the 981S comes out of its winter hibernation. I'll be reevaluating in a month. It really is brand new, no excuses car!
Your car is desperate to be sold!
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Old 03-01-2018, 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by manifold danger View Post
Is an overrun really all that damning when considering a used car? I didn't get a PPI as I bought from a reputable dealer and it still has 3 years left on the CPO, but some folks on here seem to consider it a death sentence. Is it REALLY that big a deal, and why?
I'm with you on this one. When I was competitive in SCCA autocross at the national level, I would set the rev limiter at least 500rpm higher than the factory setting (with an aftermarket tunable ECU) and routinely bumped off the rev limiter, sometimes for more than a few seconds at a time. Mis-shifts often happened even to the best of us since the car was almost never straight and constantly under a G (meaning the transmission was moving all over the place in relation to the shifter and making it extremely hard to find the next gear), momentarily sending the rev way over the already high rev limiter. I raced the car (a heavily modified 1999 Miata) like that 30-40 times a year for nearly 10 years but never experienced an engine trouble. I broke many chassis parts: the subframe, control arms, axel, engine mounts, ball joints, PPF (a frame connecting the diff to the transmission), etc., etc., but never the engine. I sold the car to a fellow autocrosser in 2011 and the car is still active and very competitive.

So, at least to me, a few over-revs are not an issue. Especially if there is a warranty coverage for a few years like you have for your car. If past over-revs actually damaged the engine, the symptoms should appear relatively soon: within the warranty period. YMMV
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Old 03-01-2018, 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by storii View Post
I'm with you on this one. When I was competitive in SCCA autocross at the national level, I would set the rev limiter at least 500rpm higher than the factory setting (with an aftermarket tunable ECU) and routinely bumped off the rev limiter, sometimes for more than a few seconds at a time. Mis-shifts often happened even to the best of us since the car was almost never straight and constantly under a G (meaning the transmission was moving all over the place in relation to the shifter and making it extremely hard to find the next gear), momentarily sending the rev way over the already high rev limiter. I raced the car (a heavily modified 1999 Miata) like that 30-40 times a year for nearly 10 years but never experienced an engine trouble. I broke many chassis parts: the subframe, control arms, axel, engine mounts, ball joints, PPF (a frame connecting the diff to the transmission), etc., etc., but never the engine. I sold the car to a fellow autocrosser in 2011 and the car is still active and very competitive.

So, at least to me, a few over-revs are not an issue. Especially if there is a warranty coverage for a few years like you have for your car. If past over-revs actually damaged the engine, the symptoms should appear relatively soon: within the warranty period. YMMV
Wear from running an engine hard (at WOT) for long periods of time (or most of the time) is cumulative. That's why race car engines time out and require a refresh after a certain number of hours. A PPI with leak-down (compression) test and an over-rev report confirms or conflicts with the seller's claim about the past usage of the car and helps estimate the wear/age of the engine. Years of remaining warranty don't eliminate the need for these tests. A hard-run engine could wear out (time out) just as it leaves warranty even years after the cars was purchased. The $300-500 spent on a PPI from a trusted qualified shop should be viewed as a prudent investment with a high expected return over the long run and over many transactions.
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Old 03-01-2018, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by hf1 View Post
Wear from running an engine hard (at WOT) for long periods of time (or most of the time) is cumulative. That's why race car engines time out and require a refresh after a certain number of hours. A PPI with leak-down (compression) test and an over-rev report confirms or conflicts with the seller's claim about the past usage of the car and helps estimate the wear/age of the engine. Years of remaining warranty don't eliminate the need for these tests. A hard-run engine could wear out (time out) just as it leaves warranty even years after the cars was purchased. The $300-500 spent on a PPI from a trusted qualified shop should be viewed as a prudent investment with a high expected return over the long run and over many transactions.
I am not denying the importance of PPI. I am just saying that over-revs may be taken out of proportion by some. A few separated occasions of over-revs don't necessarily cause a catastrophic damage to an otherwise well maintained engine.

Race car engines typically require a rebuild after 40 hours of racing. At least it was the case with the Formula Ford that I used to run. It is very hard if not impossible for a street-driven car to achieve that kind of exhaustion in its lifetime.
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Old 03-02-2018, 07:49 AM
  #28  
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Great responses, thanks. Kind of confirmed what I had always thought... I by no means have been easy on my engines in the past but never ran into any issues as long as they were properly maintained. Nissan, BMW, and Mazda motors are great but I'd imagine not engineered to the same standards as Porsche so I wasn't beating myself up over trying to force a PPI when I already had to work out picking the car up from 900 miles away. Had it not had the CPO it would have been a different story. I know many folks would have done the PPI anyway for peace of mind, and in hindsight maybe I should have. I realize a PPI is much more thorough than a used car reconditioning... but there has to be a point of diminishing returns when you're already buying from what should be considered a trusted, qualified shop.

I'll have the car thoroughly inspected before I take it to any racing events as due diligence, but if it comes out it's been overrun a few times I fail to see how that's such horrible news. I get that you're looking to confirm it hasn't been abused, but it's tough to say I haven't "abused" previous cars I've owned simply by driving them harder than your typical commuter, and I've had no issues. I am still curious if there's anecdotal evidence that Porsche in particular for some reason is sensitive to overrevs. I've seen some posts on here and planet-9 that imply if it's been overrun at all avoid it like the plague. Makes no sense to me.
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Old 03-02-2018, 08:29 AM
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I would say if you can get a clean, manual 2013 981 Boxster S for high $30s low $40's do it, that's a steal. They are such fun, great cars. If my very well optioned 2013 BS 25,000 mile 6 speed is only going to net me those numbers on a resale, I will to keep it till the wheels fall off. What else can compete on the fun, and beauty scale in that price range?
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Old 03-02-2018, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by meteor10 View Post
I would say if you can get a clean, manual 2013 981 Boxster S for high $30s low $40's do it, that's a steal. They are such fun, great cars. If my very well optioned 2013 BS 25,000 mile 6 speed is only going to net me those numbers on a resale, I will to keep it till the wheels fall off. What else can compete on the fun, and beauty scale in that price range?
That's exactly the way I feel. As the original owner of my 981BS, I know that it was maintained according to factory recommendations. After five years the car has been trouble free and doesn't even have a rattle or squeak. So why should I let some stranger get my car for the low $40Ks? Moreover, what would I buy for that money? I suppose I could get a stripped Audi A4 for that money, but it wouldn't give me 5% of the pleasure that my 981BS does. If I buy another Porsche it means writing a $50K check plus my car for a new car which won't give much more pleasure than my current car.
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