Squeaking Sound at cold start
09-13-2017, 06:47 PM
#16
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Here is a picture I took midstream for the plug installation. Headers are hanging down on zip ties and old plugs are out. This shows the back half of the engine and yes some of the wheel well liner has to come out to get full access.
09-13-2017, 07:36 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
Well, you're already halfway done, but you've made this job a lot tougher than it had to be. There's no need to touch the headers: you just wiggle out a small heat shield and you can access the plugs.
Getting to the driver's front plug is a tad tricky, but not really provided you have a good set of ratchet extensions and joints. I'd much rather deal with that one plug again than remove the headers.
Getting to the driver's front plug is a tad tricky, but not really provided you have a good set of ratchet extensions and joints. I'd much rather deal with that one plug again than remove the headers.
09-13-2017, 07:36 PM
#18
MB, just to be clear, the exhaust headers have to be removed to change the spark plugs? That's different than the m96 engine if that's the case.
Mr Moose already answered my question, I would have been shocked if you had to pull the headers for spark plugs, thanks for the clarification.
Mr Moose already answered my question, I would have been shocked if you had to pull the headers for spark plugs, thanks for the clarification.
09-13-2017, 09:06 PM
#19
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To be honest I didn't change the plugs myself, I had a local mechanic do it and he also said we could get away with just removing the heat shield. Removing the headers just offered better access, insured more accurate torquing of the plugs and the difference in labor was trivial ($75).
09-13-2017, 10:26 PM
#21
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I changed the plugs at 6 years 14k miles. The plugs came out without issue and they looked fine but there's always the concern that they will seize in the engine if left in too long. Having said that, my car doesn't see much moisture so it may have benefited from that.
09-14-2017, 04:59 PM
#22
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MB, just to be clear, the exhaust headers have to be removed to change the spark plugs? That's different than the m96 engine if that's the case.
Mr Moose already answered my question, I would have been shocked if you had to pull the headers for spark plugs, thanks for the clarification.
Mr Moose already answered my question, I would have been shocked if you had to pull the headers for spark plugs, thanks for the clarification.
09-14-2017, 05:42 PM
#23
Thanks, seems like a long trip for some anti seize compound, I'm sure the actual plug condition is fine.
PS I've worked in "worser" tight spaces than Boxster plugs. Wrenching on an X/19 was a special kind of opportunity to cut your hands.
PS I've worked in "worser" tight spaces than Boxster plugs. Wrenching on an X/19 was a special kind of opportunity to cut your hands.
09-15-2017, 02:52 AM
#24
Seemyad, My post was more a cautionary tale to Hall911. Plugs on a boxster really are not difficult just more work with the single coils and long rubber moisture barrier. I'd say the tube seals are more of a pain but there are a lot of posts where people have fashioned cheater tools to extract the oil tubes more easily. IIRC, I read once where someone used a rubber drain plug from a small boat to grip the tube on the inside. I never tired it, (never had leaks) but it sounded plausible. The one thing my dad taught me at a very young age was to start EVERY replaced plug by hand, even if you need to use an extension which on a boxster is essential, cross threading is not your friend. I forgot to look when I last bled my brakes to see if the 987 is the same, on the 986 there was an access for the plugs in the rear fender liners, maybe someone here can confirm if they carried that forward.
PS Not sure how other's feel but I always coat all spark plugs with anti seize compound, it can't hurt.
PS Not sure how other's feel but I always coat all spark plugs with anti seize compound, it can't hurt.
09-15-2017, 10:11 AM
#25
Instructor
09-15-2017, 02:47 PM
#26
Porsche has specifically mentioned potential for mis-fires due to the insulation effect of anti-seize, and everyone else mentions that the torque figures are for dry fitting, so if you use anti-seize and the spec'd torque you run the risk of over-torquing and damaging the head.
09-15-2017, 03:02 PM
#27
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True on both counts. Plus plugs dissipate heat thru the head, which is diminished with any kind of anti-seize between the 2 surfaces. And that goes for all vehicles, not just Porsche. While on the subject, does anybody have the factory torque spec for spark plugs? Hope to be able to torque them all when the time comes, but suspect at least the 2 most forward will be impossible. How have you folks torqued those? Like half turn after being seated (before torque wrenches)? Or just entirely by feel? It's VERY important to have them torqued correctly, hence my question. Thx.
It's not my intent to start any debates about this, I'm simply stating what was stated to me during the install and why we chose to take the headers off.
09-15-2017, 11:59 PM
#29
Instructor
... While on the subject, does anybody have the factory torque spec for spark plugs? Hope to be able to torque them all when the time comes, but suspect at least the 2 most forward will be impossible. How have you folks torqued those? Like half turn after being seated (before torque wrenches)? Or just entirely by feel? It's VERY important to have them torqued correctly, hence my question. Thx.