Squeaking on cold start - 987.1 3.4
08-22-2017, 11:19 AM
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Track Day
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Squeaking on cold start - 987.1 3.4
I recently acquired a 2006 987.1 S with 37k miles. I'm almost at 39k now, and recently did oil, plugs, belt, brake flush, etc.
I noticed this week (3 weeks after I did all of the service) there is a squeak when I first start the car, that seems to go away when warm. It sounds like a pulley of some sort, and initial research makes my think it is the water pump.
Has anyone had a similar experience? Idler pullies are my other guess. at 11 years/40k miles, water pump failure seems premature, but common on these cars. $300 and 4 hours of work to throw at a hopeful solution(and a low temp thermostat) isn't ideal, though water pump feels like maintenance for these cars vs repair.
(Clutch pedal also squeaks when depressed and cold, but I'm ignoring that one for now - assuming it will result in a new clutch and more).
I noticed this week (3 weeks after I did all of the service) there is a squeak when I first start the car, that seems to go away when warm. It sounds like a pulley of some sort, and initial research makes my think it is the water pump.
Has anyone had a similar experience? Idler pullies are my other guess. at 11 years/40k miles, water pump failure seems premature, but common on these cars. $300 and 4 hours of work to throw at a hopeful solution(and a low temp thermostat) isn't ideal, though water pump feels like maintenance for these cars vs repair.
(Clutch pedal also squeaks when depressed and cold, but I'm ignoring that one for now - assuming it will result in a new clutch and more).
08-22-2017, 11:37 AM
#2
Race Director
I recently acquired a 2006 987.1 S with 37k miles. I'm almost at 39k now, and recently did oil, plugs, belt, brake flush, etc.
I noticed this week (3 weeks after I did all of the service) there is a squeak when I first start the car, that seems to go away when warm. It sounds like a pulley of some sort, and initial research makes my think it is the water pump.
Has anyone had a similar experience? Idler pullies are my other guess. at 11 years/40k miles, water pump failure seems premature, but common on these cars. $300 and 4 hours of work to throw at a hopeful solution(and a low temp thermostat) isn't ideal, though water pump feels like maintenance for these cars vs repair.
(Clutch pedal also squeaks when depressed and cold, but I'm ignoring that one for now - assuming it will result in a new clutch and more).
I noticed this week (3 weeks after I did all of the service) there is a squeak when I first start the car, that seems to go away when warm. It sounds like a pulley of some sort, and initial research makes my think it is the water pump.
Has anyone had a similar experience? Idler pullies are my other guess. at 11 years/40k miles, water pump failure seems premature, but common on these cars. $300 and 4 hours of work to throw at a hopeful solution(and a low temp thermostat) isn't ideal, though water pump feels like maintenance for these cars vs repair.
(Clutch pedal also squeaks when depressed and cold, but I'm ignoring that one for now - assuming it will result in a new clutch and more).
The one in my Boxster went bad but made a low frquency rumbly sound that gradually got worse as the engine idled from cold.
The only "squeak" (or chirp) I've heard was from my 2003 996 Turbo. This proved to be a bad idler/tensioner roller bearing.
Oh, I don't think this applies in your case but my Turbo "chirps" sometimes after I start the engine after a wash or after the car has been out in the rain. The serpentine belt is wet -- courtesy of the rather open engine compartment lid -- but after a short idle time the belt/pulleys dry and the chirping goes away.
If you are careful with the car on a lift and the engine idling you can possibly determine if the noise is from the water pump or an idler/tensioner roller bearing.
With the engine off you can carefully inspect the water pump for any signs of a leak. Any wetness present is a clear sign the pump is shot and should be replaced. Or a lump of dried anti-freeze residue. (My Turbo water pump manifested this.) Or a lot of dried anti-freeze residue on the water pump casting.
Check the serpentine belt too. A sharp edge is a sign the belt is contacting the side of one of the pulleys and this is because of bearing/shaft play is allowing the belt to pull the pulley out of position.
You can note the routing of the belt -- make a sketch -- and its direction of rotation then remove the belt and check all accessory drives for any excessive play. Really my experience when I did this for my Boxster is the accessory drive with play is the bad one and in the case of my Boxster this was the water pump. The others all had no play.
If you find the water pump bad replace it along with the T-stat. (If the belt has a sharp edge I'd replace the belt too.) I am not a fan of a low temp T-stat though and in both water pump replacements, one for my Boxster and one for my Turbo, I had the tech use the factory T-stat.
08-22-2017, 12:04 PM
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Could be a water pump. Water pumps can make noise as they fail.
The one in my Boxster went bad but made a low frquency rumbly sound that gradually got worse as the engine idled from cold.
The only "squeak" (or chirp) I've heard was from my 2003 996 Turbo. This proved to be a bad idler/tensioner roller bearing.
Oh, I don't think this applies in your case but my Turbo "chirps" sometimes after I start the engine after a wash or after the car has been out in the rain. The serpentine belt is wet -- courtesy of the rather open engine compartment lid -- but after a short idle time the belt/pulleys dry and the chirping goes away.
If you are careful with the car on a lift and the engine idling you can possibly determine if the noise is from the water pump or an idler/tensioner roller bearing.
With the engine off you can carefully inspect the water pump for any signs of a leak. Any wetness present is a clear sign the pump is shot and should be replaced. Or a lump of dried anti-freeze residue. (My Turbo water pump manifested this.) Or a lot of dried anti-freeze residue on the water pump casting.
Check the serpentine belt too. A sharp edge is a sign the belt is contacting the side of one of the pulleys and this is because of bearing/shaft play is allowing the belt to pull the pulley out of position.
You can note the routing of the belt -- make a sketch -- and its direction of rotation then remove the belt and check all accessory drives for any excessive play. Really my experience when I did this for my Boxster is the accessory drive with play is the bad one and in the case of my Boxster this was the water pump. The others all had no play.
If you find the water pump bad replace it along with the T-stat. (If the belt has a sharp edge I'd replace the belt too.) I am not a fan of a low temp T-stat though and in both water pump replacements, one for my Boxster and one for my Turbo, I had the tech use the factory T-stat.
The one in my Boxster went bad but made a low frquency rumbly sound that gradually got worse as the engine idled from cold.
The only "squeak" (or chirp) I've heard was from my 2003 996 Turbo. This proved to be a bad idler/tensioner roller bearing.
Oh, I don't think this applies in your case but my Turbo "chirps" sometimes after I start the engine after a wash or after the car has been out in the rain. The serpentine belt is wet -- courtesy of the rather open engine compartment lid -- but after a short idle time the belt/pulleys dry and the chirping goes away.
If you are careful with the car on a lift and the engine idling you can possibly determine if the noise is from the water pump or an idler/tensioner roller bearing.
With the engine off you can carefully inspect the water pump for any signs of a leak. Any wetness present is a clear sign the pump is shot and should be replaced. Or a lump of dried anti-freeze residue. (My Turbo water pump manifested this.) Or a lot of dried anti-freeze residue on the water pump casting.
Check the serpentine belt too. A sharp edge is a sign the belt is contacting the side of one of the pulleys and this is because of bearing/shaft play is allowing the belt to pull the pulley out of position.
You can note the routing of the belt -- make a sketch -- and its direction of rotation then remove the belt and check all accessory drives for any excessive play. Really my experience when I did this for my Boxster is the accessory drive with play is the bad one and in the case of my Boxster this was the water pump. The others all had no play.
If you find the water pump bad replace it along with the T-stat. (If the belt has a sharp edge I'd replace the belt too.) I am not a fan of a low temp T-stat though and in both water pump replacements, one for my Boxster and one for my Turbo, I had the tech use the factory T-stat.
First step seems to be remove the firewall again and poke around and try to identify if pump pulley or a different pulley.
Pelican pairs a lower temp thermostat with a pump. I'm not sold on lower temp either, so I may just buy OEM separately. I don't want to do this job twice. I'll do a partial coolant flush while I'm at it.
08-22-2017, 02:49 PM
#4
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As for the other squeaking noise, I agree with Macster and would also suspect an idler pulley or other accessory pulley/bearing.
08-22-2017, 06:14 PM
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My clutch pedal has done this for a couple of years now, almost always when "cold". It doesn't seem to have gotten any worse. It sounds to me like a noisy bushing somewhere in the linkage, possibly more toward the front.
As for the other squeaking noise, I agree with Macster and would also suspect an idler pulley or other accessory pulley/bearing.
As for the other squeaking noise, I agree with Macster and would also suspect an idler pulley or other accessory pulley/bearing.
08-24-2017, 11:48 AM
#7
Race Director
Thanks. It has a brand new factory belt, but I'll inspect to make sure that it isn't wearing funny.
First step seems to be remove the firewall again and poke around and try to identify if pump pulley or a different pulley.
Pelican pairs a lower temp thermostat with a pump. I'm not sold on lower temp either, so I may just buy OEM separately. I don't want to do this job twice. I'll do a partial coolant flush while I'm at it.
First step seems to be remove the firewall again and poke around and try to identify if pump pulley or a different pulley.
Pelican pairs a lower temp thermostat with a pump. I'm not sold on lower temp either, so I may just buy OEM separately. I don't want to do this job twice. I'll do a partial coolant flush while I'm at it.