MrBigTree

I'm getting close to 50k miles, and planning to DIY (as much as possible) this major maintenance on my 09 boxster base.

Here's the list of things I'm planning to do

1. Oil & filter change
2. Replace Rear brake pads & wear sensors
3. Brake fluid flush
4. Investigate engine comp blower failure msg (potential temp sensor issue??)
5. Change engine air filter
6. Replace spark plugs

Anything else I should do or look for?

I haven't had the rotros changed, should I change all rotors and/or front pads as well?

Marine Blue

I would have the gearbox fluid changed also if it hasn't been done already. It made a huge difference on my car on hot days.

Pep!RRRR

You don't need to change rotors or pads until they are worn out. Pads can be inspected visually for remaining thickness. The rotors will either loose thickness from wear, which is determined by measuring with a caliper, or will develop surface cracks, which if allowed to progress too far can lead to catastrophic failure. Porsche brakes are way over designed for regular street driving, so it is possible the rotors, especially the rears, are still serviceable.

danschy

What were the symptoms on hot days? For my 07 Cayman, Porsche specifies a fluid change interval of 120kmiles / 12 years.

danschy

Check cabin filter and drive belt. As others have mentioned, pads and rotors only need be changed when thickness hits the limit. I was surprised when I brought my newly purchased 07 Cayman with 40k miles in to be checked over, pads and rotors front and rear needed to be changed. I've always been a little skeptical about the rear rotors especially - wish I would have checked them myself. Guess it depends on how the car has been driven.

Marine Blue

On 100F days pushing the car hard I had a heat soak issue that popped up twice. Basically the fluid viscosity dropped to a point that the synchro into 2nd wasn't working as smoothly. I changed the fluid shortly after and it has worked fine in similar scenarios.

As far as the fluid change recommendations, I have heard from experts that the fluid should be changed every 15k for spirited street driving.

danschy

Eh, I might not drive as spiritedly as you and don't see many 100F days in northern IL. Did you change it yourself? I seem to recall people talking about some difficulty getting to the drain plug.

r553

If your car has a manual trans axle bleed the clutch while you are bleeding the brakes. They share a common reservoir.

And how old is your battery?

Marine Blue

I did not do the transmission myself, it is a messy job and I definitely wasn't up to the task.

Dave in Chicago

This...

You'd be surprised how much gunk can come out of the clutch slave and they are often overlooked in the typical brake flush.

Dave in Chicago
'05 987S
'92 968 SP3
'88 944 NA

MrBigTree

Thanks for all the replies!!

I haven't changed my battery yet. It's 2009 boxster @close to 50k miles. I don't drive in the winter and I put it on a battery tender in the winter. Should I consider to change the battery at this point?

Do I start bleeding all brake first or clutch first?

Dave in Chicago

I always bleed the calipers first (must have) and finished with the clutch slave (nice to have). Not sure it really matters as long as you get clean new fluid out of every bled caliper & the clutch slave.

Dave

danschy

Typically you start with the furthest away caliper, then work your way to the closest, then do the clutch. I suspect the order is more important if you're bleeding out air bubbles rather than just replacing the fluid (although to be honest I don't really understand why order ever matters - I must not be smart enough). Don't forget to do both sides of the caliper. There are also some mighty strong opinions saying you need to cycle the ABS unit as part of the brake bleed, and some equally strong opinions to the contrary. For what it's worth, my shop manual does not mention cycling the ABS in the section on "Brake fluid replacement".

Dave in Chicago

Agree. Standard method is farthest caliper from the reservoir first, working back to nearest, then clutch.

I found it necessary to cycle the ABS in my 968, but ONLY because I changed the proportioning valve attached to the ABS distribution manifold, potentially introducing air to the manifold.

The method I used to cycle and bleed the ABS?

Wait until it rains, go find a deserted paved space, and hammer the brakes through about 15 mins or so of ABS-engaging braking adventures. Seemed to work like a charm.

Dave in Chicago

'05 987S
'92 968 SP3
'88 944 NA

JCtx

It's not critical to do furthest to shortest, but besides less fluid contamination, it's an easy to follow sequence, so why not follow it? And same with caliper valves: further first, so outside first. Also not critical to cycle ABS piston, as long as it's done regularly. If you wait until your fluid is filthy, I'd definitely do it. And same with furthest to shortest. That's why I like to do it regularly. Done yourself, it's only the cost of a 32-oz bottle of fluid, which is dirt cheap. By the way, with some Porsche OBDII readers, you can cycle the ABS, but I'd skip that if fluid is not in bad shape. Finally, the main reason to change brake fluid regularly is moisture absorption, since system is not sealed. Moisture reduces the boiling point, creating fade (spongy pedal) quicker. Therefore, if you live in a humid climate, you need to really observe the fluid interval. In fact, if I didn't live in the desert, I'd probably do it once a year. You don't want your expensive brake components rusting over time. Hope this helps.