A few more data points on 981S alignment (track/aggressive street)
#1
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A few more data points on 981S alignment (track/aggressive street)
There are a few threads already on this, but it's weird how much the cars can vary so I figured I'd throw some more data out there. Obviously lower cars get more camber, automatically, so my 981S with normal susp. is not very cambered right now.
Stock alignment was -0.4 camber front, -1.6/-1.2 camber rear; 0 toe front, 1/16 and 3/32 toe in rear.
By sliding the camber adjustment bolts in the strut towers all the way inboard, I got camber in front to -1.3 and -1.1 (unsure why it is so low and why it is .2 off; they are definitely all the way in on both sides, as I removed the nuts to check). I have seen people talk about -1.5 camber stock and -1.7 or -1.8 with PASM or X73, but that didn't work for me.
Importantly for other DIY-oriented people, just moving my camber from ~0.4 to ~1.3 changed toe in front from zero to a full quarter inch out, which was super sketchy and frankly probably too much to even drive the 10 minutes to my local alignment folks. So don't do this without taking toe back in accordingly.
One other weird occurrence: my shop could get -1.8 camber on the right rear, but when it was that high the toe could not get more inward than zero. Only by backing down to -1.6 could they get it to where we needed, toe-wise. I don't know if something was bound or what the deal was, but I've seen zero other discussion on that particular problem. No big deal, since I didn't want more than .4 difference F/R anyway in camber to make it neutral/oversteer.
Final results (stock suspension 981 CS):
LF: -1.1 camber, 0 toe
RF: -1.3 camber, 0 toe
LR: -1.6 camber, 1/16 toe in
RR: -1.6 camber, 1/16 toe in
Will see how it fares at VIR July 15 and Barber August 5, but expect it will need camber plates or LCA's.
Stock alignment was -0.4 camber front, -1.6/-1.2 camber rear; 0 toe front, 1/16 and 3/32 toe in rear.
By sliding the camber adjustment bolts in the strut towers all the way inboard, I got camber in front to -1.3 and -1.1 (unsure why it is so low and why it is .2 off; they are definitely all the way in on both sides, as I removed the nuts to check). I have seen people talk about -1.5 camber stock and -1.7 or -1.8 with PASM or X73, but that didn't work for me.
Importantly for other DIY-oriented people, just moving my camber from ~0.4 to ~1.3 changed toe in front from zero to a full quarter inch out, which was super sketchy and frankly probably too much to even drive the 10 minutes to my local alignment folks. So don't do this without taking toe back in accordingly.
One other weird occurrence: my shop could get -1.8 camber on the right rear, but when it was that high the toe could not get more inward than zero. Only by backing down to -1.6 could they get it to where we needed, toe-wise. I don't know if something was bound or what the deal was, but I've seen zero other discussion on that particular problem. No big deal, since I didn't want more than .4 difference F/R anyway in camber to make it neutral/oversteer.
Final results (stock suspension 981 CS):
LF: -1.1 camber, 0 toe
RF: -1.3 camber, 0 toe
LR: -1.6 camber, 1/16 toe in
RR: -1.6 camber, 1/16 toe in
Will see how it fares at VIR July 15 and Barber August 5, but expect it will need camber plates or LCA's.
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Yes, one track day. Was very well balanced F/R. More camber would be better for optimimum grip and tire wear on track but it's a good compromise for mostly street driving.
#6
Burning Brakes
Here's another data point from my alignment yesterday at my local Porsche dealer that works on a ton of track cars.
2016 Cayman S w/ X73 suspension (Stock suspension arms and no camber plates)
LF: -1.42 camber, .01 toe out, Caster 8.55
RF: -1.43 camber, .01 toe out, Caster 8.40
LR: -2.03 camber, .13 toe in
RR: -2.02 camber, .12 toe in
2016 Cayman S w/ X73 suspension (Stock suspension arms and no camber plates)
LF: -1.42 camber, .01 toe out, Caster 8.55
RF: -1.43 camber, .01 toe out, Caster 8.40
LR: -2.03 camber, .13 toe in
RR: -2.02 camber, .12 toe in
Last edited by Noel; 04-04-2024 at 11:41 AM.
#7
There are a few threads already on this, but it's weird how much the cars can vary so I figured I'd throw some more data out there. Obviously lower cars get more camber, automatically, so my 981S with normal susp. is not very cambered right now.
Stock alignment was -0.4 camber front, -1.6/-1.2 camber rear; 0 toe front, 1/16 and 3/32 toe in rear.
By sliding the camber adjustment bolts in the strut towers all the way inboard, I got camber in front to -1.3 and -1.1 (unsure why it is so low and why it is .2 off; they are definitely all the way in on both sides, as I removed the nuts to check). I have seen people talk about -1.5 camber stock and -1.7 or -1.8 with PASM or X73, but that didn't work for me.
Importantly for other DIY-oriented people, just moving my camber from ~0.4 to ~1.3 changed toe in front from zero to a full quarter inch out, which was super sketchy and frankly probably too much to even drive the 10 minutes to my local alignment folks. So don't do this without taking toe back in accordingly.
One other weird occurrence: my shop could get -1.8 camber on the right rear, but when it was that high the toe could not get more inward than zero. Only by backing down to -1.6 could they get it to where we needed, toe-wise. I don't know if something was bound or what the deal was, but I've seen zero other discussion on that particular problem. No big deal, since I didn't want more than .4 difference F/R anyway in camber to make it neutral/oversteer.
Final results (stock suspension 981 CS):
LF: -1.1 camber, 0 toe
RF: -1.3 camber, 0 toe
LR: -1.6 camber, 1/16 toe in
RR: -1.6 camber, 1/16 toe in
Will see how it fares at VIR July 15 and Barber August 5, but expect it will need camber plates or LCA's.
Stock alignment was -0.4 camber front, -1.6/-1.2 camber rear; 0 toe front, 1/16 and 3/32 toe in rear.
By sliding the camber adjustment bolts in the strut towers all the way inboard, I got camber in front to -1.3 and -1.1 (unsure why it is so low and why it is .2 off; they are definitely all the way in on both sides, as I removed the nuts to check). I have seen people talk about -1.5 camber stock and -1.7 or -1.8 with PASM or X73, but that didn't work for me.
Importantly for other DIY-oriented people, just moving my camber from ~0.4 to ~1.3 changed toe in front from zero to a full quarter inch out, which was super sketchy and frankly probably too much to even drive the 10 minutes to my local alignment folks. So don't do this without taking toe back in accordingly.
One other weird occurrence: my shop could get -1.8 camber on the right rear, but when it was that high the toe could not get more inward than zero. Only by backing down to -1.6 could they get it to where we needed, toe-wise. I don't know if something was bound or what the deal was, but I've seen zero other discussion on that particular problem. No big deal, since I didn't want more than .4 difference F/R anyway in camber to make it neutral/oversteer.
Final results (stock suspension 981 CS):
LF: -1.1 camber, 0 toe
RF: -1.3 camber, 0 toe
LR: -1.6 camber, 1/16 toe in
RR: -1.6 camber, 1/16 toe in
Will see how it fares at VIR July 15 and Barber August 5, but expect it will need camber plates or LCA's.
as a reference mine are…
camber -3.9/-2.6
caster 10.5
toe out 1.0mm/-3.6mm (18”)