ARC_Driver

I'm looking at a low mileage well optioned car that was in an accident where 4 body panels were damaged and probably not much else. The car has been repaired and looks good as new and seller claims it drives perfectly.

If the car's value without being in an accident was lets say, 75k, what should someone pay for it with the accident history/salvaged title?

terbiumactivated

If it's so perfect now how did it end up totaled at that supposed value to begin with? I'd be very weary of bent wheels or worse. I'd skip it but if you really want it I'd swing real low, like 20K tops.

PorscheAddict

Yep. It's almost always a bad call for a street car, since cars that are totaled usually have recurring problems (whether it's electrical, squeaks and rattles, or something else) and the salvage title will dramatically hit your resale just as it's hitting the current seller's now. I'd be okay with one for a track build as long as it passed an inspection by a good mechanic and the frame was straight, but I wouldn't pay much of anything for a street car w/ salvage title. You don't total a $80k car with 4 body panels and no mechanical/structural damage.

Milehigh981

agree with the others - if a 75K car was deemed totaled then much more damage must have happened. I would not pay much at all for a salvage titled car: 20 -30K tops with recipts, pics etc of the repairs/damage.

ARC_Driver

Here is the car in question. The auction has 92 pictures including a few before the repairs were done. I was thinking about going up to 40k and walking away if any issues were found from a PPI or test drive.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-Porsche...19.m1438.l2649

Marine Blue

The 981 as an aluminum body/structure and Porsche has very specific procedures for rebuild of the frame. I would want to know who performed the rebuild and if they are authorized to rebuild for Porsche. If not I would walk.

terbiumactivated

Conspicuously missing the passenger's fender photos in more detail. Based on what they do show it's hard to believe that was totaled unless there was more damage than a couple headlamps a fender and the bumper cover, like damage you can't see that marine blue eluded to. It's already at 35K I wouldn't walk away from it I'd run. The sentence about any future disputes being handled in San Diego by their rules is also troubling to me, IMO it intimates that they have had arbitration in the past with other vehicles.

Dr.Bill

Also depends on where you live. In some states it's very hard to get a salvage title vehicle registered for street use. Or insured. I have no clue what happens to the factory warranty.

For a track car, that's not a concern.

The MSRP on that car was $80k. Pristine pre-owned it might sell for $65k. It's already above what I'd pay for a salvage vehicle. Unless it was for track use only. And even then only after a comprehensive PPI with DME scan.

backeddy

I used to buy, fix resell these types of cars. I have bought "salvaged" cars that had so little damage it was hard to believe BUT the other way is true as well. To me its pretty simple, have a 4 wheel alignment check done...is it in spec? are the factory tub measurements in spec? if both are ok, then ?? As far as electrical etc goes MOST rebuilders just buy new harness sections i.e. plug to plug, so I would not be too worried there either. My biggest concerns are always paint match issues, if its not perfect I am not buying. Value = 1/2 of average sales price for non salvage cars.

Kevin Rohrer

I would also skip ANY salvage title car. The wheels could be bent, but even worse, the frame could be bent to the point that it will not take an alignment.

Salvage title cars are Bad JuJu.

ARC_Driver

thanks backeddy, looks like sound advice.

Ynot

+1, I avoid salvage cars like the plague I would only buy a salvage car for track duty and a thorough inspection.

Mike127

Salvage cars aren't necessarily bad. That was well more than 4 body panels though. From what I can see..

Bumper, both front fenders, hood, possibly driver's door, possible passenger door, both rear quarter panels and side skirts, front right wheel and suspension, both headlights, bumper supports, parts of the frunk, front radiators, etc.

I would need to get a full list of what was replaced from the shop and ask for pictures during repair as well. If it was repaired correctly and you plan to keep the vehicle a long time (or forever), this isn't too bad of a price for what you're getting. The worst part of a correctly fixed salvage title is trying to re-sell. See everyone above weary to buy simply because of the label. So it's really only beneficial if you're not going to be selling for a long time.

GTgears

I would go a step farther and say I wouldn't consider any S title 981 that wasn't retubbed.

I own an S title air cooled car. Totally different world.

terbiumactivated

Well in addition to the differences in build, on an old car hitting the "totalled" number might also be very little damage.