When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Our 2014 981 warms up at the same slow rate. It is interesting that our 15 GT3 warms up twice as fast. Oil temp warms up at same rate as water just maybe 10* behind.
Our 2014 981 warms up at the same slow rate. It is interesting that our 15 GT3 warms up twice as fast. Oil temp warms up at same rate as water just maybe 10* behind.
Your 981's thermal management is partially/mainly about MPGs. The GT3 not so much, hence the gas guzzler tax and performance.
Amazing how much process management we can stuff into the operating systems of cars now. Great explanation on the MAP-Controlled Thermostat. I guess I'm feeling better and better about having installed a lower temp thermostat in my, admittedly more analog, 2005 Boxster S.
So, same sage advice applies. Don't bog these cars at 1500-2000 rpm, shift as you like cold 3000-4000 rpm, no WOT until fully warm, and take it out once a week of so for a long enough run to warm all temps and wind it up to your heart's content.
And as my favorite Porsche tech explained to me, more cars have problems with engines that have not seen the rev limiter than those that have. Of course this is after the engine and oil has reached full operating temperature. IOW, if no range 1 or 2 over revs appear in the VAL report of the DME log, he sees more engine problems than those engines that have seen range 1/2 over revs. Not a thread hijack, but just agreeing that these engines like to be driven hard once they are warmed up. The tech did not comment on over revs in ranges 3 and above......
As a street driver, I have a hard time imagining a rev-limiting experience. Of course, it's possible, even driving "sedately", if only technically but not acoustically. IOW I could drive down my road at 40 mph in 1st(?) or 2nd gear but for a deaf person it would appear that I was always driving safely if not sedately.
I have driven my car in what I would consider a "moderately aggressively" manner and never hit the limit. In fact, I don't even know what the actual redline is. I almost always drive in non-Sport mode, so maybe I am shifting as a result of feeling the reduction of power near max RPM as opposed to the hard cut-off mode from Sport mode.
That's awesome! My wife thinks we are the biggest geeks, but I still say this detailed study is simply AWESOME!
BTW, when it's really cold (below freezing, Chicago, year-round Porsche use), I generally double clutch for the first mile or two as well. Gearbox seems to like a couple mins to move that cold gear oil around.
Thanks for the reply. Not sure what heat management system GT3 uses but once up to temp, it just stays between 195-205 degrees. Doesn't matter if I'm driving like a granny or redlining
My GTS has always taken a while to warm and my previous GTS was the same. I can't remember if switching to 5W50 increased that warm up time but it makes sense that 0W40 would lubricate more quickly. I may switch back to 0W40 this oil change and see if I notice any improvement in warm up times. If I do switch to 0W40, I'll try to take a scientific approach and measure several warm up times and mileage with 5W50 versus 0W40 and report back with my findings.
Update:
i timed how long it took for my 911 GTS to warm up with 5w50 and 0w40. Warm up times are pretty much identical in SoCal 65 degree weather. Took the same road at same speeds in same weather and both specs of oil took 12 min to reach 150 degrees F
And it appears I may have been mistaken in assuming these cars do not have an oil/coolant heat exchanger (like my old 944). Seems they do (see pic).
In any case, mine's been perfectly drivable and provides ample heat, even in this below zero snap we've had here in the Chicago area. Frequent drives in negative single digits. Thankful for heated seats!
I've got a 981 2.7 Boxster and it usually takes quite a long time for the oil to get to operating temperature. Usually 15 to 20 minutes of driving. My last car only took about 5 minutes each time. I'd really like to be able to wring it out a lot sooner each time I drive it so I'm wondering if there's any hardware anyone knows about that I could install that would decrease warm-up time?
Does something like an oil warmer exist that turns on automatically when you start the car but then automatically deactivates after the oil reaches operating temp or after a certain number of minutes?
Your oil and water will start to warm as soon as you start the engine, the oil nearest the pistons and bearings will warm up in seconds, the ideal engine running
temperature is to do with performance, your engine oil will give adequate protection at below -40c. you oil and water radiators are there to get rid of heat. Porsche would have added an electric heater if it needed one, some parts of Germany get to -45c if this was an issue it would have been addressed.
Mobil 0w40 will flow properly at -40c. The 0 = the best for cold starts W= winter ( not weight) and 40 means -40c
So 0w40 is the most lubricating oil at -40c
Never leave a car idle in the cold unless you absolutely have to reasons below;
1. Build up of soot in exhaust and cat.
2. At tick over you will be running your car too cold for too long this will do more damage than a 3 mile drive with a very cold engine.
3. Build up of condensation in engine as you will have hot parts and cold parts for extended time 10 or 20 mins.
4. This condensation will be there till the next oil change.
5. you will have a nice warm engine and your gearbox and tyres will still be cold.
6. You are wasting time fuel and pollution planet.
7. running any engine at the same revs for long periods caused wear in certain areas, this is not good for any engine and can cause scoring.
8. Someone will steal your car and you won't be insured cos you left the keys in it
Hope this helps, as there will be a lot of people saying, 'I leave mine warm up for ten mins'. or more.
I would say 1 min max get it to 3 or 4k soon after and if you have a 2 mile journey just dont worry about it.
The longer an engine is running the more damage is done ie if you run your engine for 2 mins or 20 mins, the 20mis has to do more damage,
because the first two mins the damage is the same.
I've got a 981 2.7 Boxster and it usually takes quite a long time for the oil to get to operating temperature. Usually 15 to 20 minutes of driving. My last car only took about 5 minutes each time. I'd really like to be able to wring it out a lot sooner each time I drive it so I'm wondering if there's any hardware anyone knows about that I could install that would decrease warm-up time?
Does something like an oil warmer exist that turns on automatically when you start the car but then automatically deactivates after the oil reaches operating temp or after a certain number of minutes?
Your oil and water will start to warm as soon as you start the engine, the oil nearest the pistons and bearings will warm up in seconds, the ideal engine running
temperature is to do with performance, your engine oil will give adequate protection at below -40c. you oil and water radiators are there to get rid of heat. Porsche would have added an electric heater if it needed one, some parts of Germany get to -45c if this was an issue it would have been addressed.
Mobil 0w40 will flow properly at -40c. The 0 = the best for cold starts W= winter ( not weight) and 40 means -40c
So 0w40 is the most lubricating oil at -40c
Never leave a car idle in the cold unless you absolutely have to reasons below;
1. Build up of soot in exhaust and cat.
2. At tick over you will be running your car too cold for too long this will do more damage than a 3 mile drive with a very cold engine.
3. Build up of condensation in engine as you will have hot parts and cold parts for extended time 10 or 20 mins.
4. This condensation will be there till the next oil change.
5. you will have a nice warm engine and your gearbox and tyres will still be cold.
6. You are wasting time fuel and pollution planet.
7. running any engine at the same revs for long periods caused wear in certain areas, this is not good for any engine and can cause scoring.
8. Someone will steal your car and you won't be insured cos you left the keys in it
Hope this helps, as there will be a lot of people saying, 'I leave mine warm up for ten mins'. or more.
I would say 1 min max get it to 3 or 4k soon after and if you have a 2 mile journey just dont worry about it.
The longer an engine is running the more damage is done ie if you run your engine for 2 mins or 20 mins, the 20mis has to do more damage,
because the first two mins the damage is the same.
Viscosity (a fluid's resistance to flow) is rated at 0° F (represented by the number preceding the "W" [for Winter]) and at 212° F (represented by the second number in the viscosity designation).
And it appears I may have been mistaken in assuming these cars do not have an oil/coolant heat exchanger (like my old 944). Seems they do (see pic).
In any case, mine's been perfectly drivable and provides ample heat, even in this below zero snap we've had here in the Chicago area. Frequent drives in negative single digits. Thankful for heated seats!
Dave
'05 987S
'92 968 SP3
'88 944 NA
I can assure you all 987 Models have one of these.
12-19-2017, 12:21 PM
