Wheel spacer removal-countersunk screws don't want to come out
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Wheel spacer removal-countersunk screws don't want to come out
The new-to-me 2015 981 BS came with wheel spacers (F:8mm/R:10mm). As I bought wider (by 1/2") wheels to replace the original, I was going to remove the spacers since the wheels will stick out too much otherwise. The countersunk screws keeping the spacer to the wheel hub were too tight to remove by a screw driver. I thought I could easily strip the Philips head by trying too hard. I ordered 3/8" drive screw driver bits and am waiting for them to arrive so I can use my ratchet to apply more torque. I would appreciate it if someone would show me an effective way to undo the countersunk screws without stripping the head.
On the other hand, my understanding was that the countersunk screws were there only to keep the spacers in place and it would be okay if I had to destroy them if they refused to come out. Then I saw the picture below in some other post in this forum (hope the OP wouldn't mind my posting the picture here). It doesn't seem there is a spacer in place but two countersunk screws are there. Are these screws serving some other purpose than to keep a spacer in place? Will I have to replace them if I damage them in the process of removing the spacers?
On the other hand, my understanding was that the countersunk screws were there only to keep the spacers in place and it would be okay if I had to destroy them if they refused to come out. Then I saw the picture below in some other post in this forum (hope the OP wouldn't mind my posting the picture here). It doesn't seem there is a spacer in place but two countersunk screws are there. Are these screws serving some other purpose than to keep a spacer in place? Will I have to replace them if I damage them in the process of removing the spacers?
#2
You might try a small amount of penetrating oil or something similar being careful not to get in on the disk surface. Then use an impact driver....worked great for me. Those screws just hold the rotor in place.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks! I only have pneumatic impact wrench and electric impact gun. Do you think I can use one of those with the screw driver bit?
#4
Burning Brakes
Those screws are like the ONE place I actually prefer an impact driver. Because you're hitting it sharply inwards with a hammer it's a lot more difficult to strip the heads of caliper screws using an impact driver.
#5
I may be off here, but that looks like the set screw for your brake rotor, not a spacer. Can you take a picture from just a bit further back?
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Theoretically, but you need to be careful. It's easy to strip Phillips screws with an impact gun.
Those screws are like the ONE place I actually prefer an impact driver. Because you're hitting it sharply inwards with a hammer it's a lot more difficult to strip the heads of caliper screws using an impact driver.
Those screws are like the ONE place I actually prefer an impact driver. Because you're hitting it sharply inwards with a hammer it's a lot more difficult to strip the heads of caliper screws using an impact driver.
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#8
Instructor
I'm with SeanR on this one. That looks like your rotor hat. The 8 and 15mm spacers are relatively thin pieces of metal. They usually aren't attached to anything as they cup the three metal lips on the hub (the rusted parts in your pic) and are sandwiched by the wheel. No screws needed.
#9
Three Wheelin'
I'm with SeanR on this one. That looks like your rotor hat. The 8 and 15mm spacers are relatively thin pieces of metal. They usually aren't attached to anything as they cup the three metal lips on the hub (the rusted parts in your pic) and are sandwiched by the wheel. No screws needed.
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Presumably the OP (he says) has high jacked the picture from another thread. It doesn't show spacers. Some spacers will come with screws that attach them to the hub after the existing screws (as shown) are removed. It's a belt and suspenders solution and not necessary, IMHO.
#12
Rennlist Member
Here’s another vote for an impact driver. I’ve had to use one a couple of times on brake rotor screws over the years.
Spacers are usually screwed to the rotor, and IIRC my spacers came with replacement screws that were longer in length to accommodate the spacer thickness.
Spacers are usually screwed to the rotor, and IIRC my spacers came with replacement screws that were longer in length to accommodate the spacer thickness.
#13
Rennlist Member
Impact driver. Common issue. Folks tighten these things like they're the only thing holding a rotor on after assembly. Corrosion doesn't help.
One or two whacks and you're done.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...FY1iAQod0ikO5w
Good Luck!
Dave
'05 987S
'92 968 SP3
'88 944 NA (gone)
One or two whacks and you're done.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...FY1iAQod0ikO5w
Good Luck!
Dave
'05 987S
'92 968 SP3
'88 944 NA (gone)
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Here’s another vote for an impact driver. I’ve had to use one a couple of times on brake rotor screws over the years.
Spacers are usually screwed to the rotor, and IIRC my spacers came with replacement screws that were longer in length to accommodate the spacer thickness.
Spacers are usually screwed to the rotor, and IIRC my spacers came with replacement screws that were longer in length to accommodate the spacer thickness.
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Impact driver. Common issue. Folks tighten these things like they're the only thing holding a rotor on after assembly. Corrosion doesn't help.
One or two whacks and you're done.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...FY1iAQod0ikO5w
Good Luck!
Dave
One or two whacks and you're done.
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-impac...FY1iAQod0ikO5w
Good Luck!
Dave