storii

Someone told me that Porsche recommends to replace the drain plug and washer with new ones at every oil change. I thought this was odd and checked the owners manual but could not find anything on it. The washer is obvious but the drain plug? The part is only $5.54 including the washer at Suncoast so the cost is not an issue. Is everyone doing this? Do dealers change the drain plug when they change oil?

LexVan

I think the new plugs now are plastic and one-time use. See here from the 991 Forum:

https://rennlist.com/forums/991/9892...th-photos.html

terbiumactivated

I change the o ring and crush washer every oil change, however I'm confident one could run the crush rings more than once without incident. I'm not a fan of a plastic drain plug, I don't see the logic, must be another one of those weight reduction items.

extanker

one of these now..........................wow

kiznarsh

I noticed this on my friend's Audi too. Can't have a metal plug threading into a plastic pan.

storii

Wow! Never seen a plastic drain plug before. Fortunately (?), the 981, at least my 2015, uses an aluminum one.

Macster

For he newest cars the drain plug, if plastic, is a one time item.

For the older models the drain plug, aluminum, can be reused.

The sealing ring (it is *not* a crush washer and it is *not* aluminum (it is silicon bronze alloy)) should be replaced every time.

When I got my first Porsche and wanted to do my own oil changes I ordered a number (10 I think, less than a $1/each) of new sealing rings, a spare drain plug, and a spare oil filter housing.

I'd remove the drain plug and while the oil was draining I'd remove the housing and filter and up end these to drain. After a 20 minute drain I'd install a new ring and put the drain plug in and torque it.

I'd get the clean spare housing out of a zipper plastic bag and install the new o-ring being careful to get it into the o-ring groove. I'd smear some fresh oil on the threads and on the o-ring then insert the filter element in the housing and fill the housing with fresh oil then carefully hand start the filter housing -- to be sure it didn't cross thread -- and hand tighten it as far as I could. When first hand tightening I'd give the housing a bit of a wiggle to help the o-ring slip into the block and then I'd torque the housing tight.

I'd get the drain pan out of the way and pour in the proper quantity of oil. I'd count the empty bottles *twice* to be sure I had the right amount in the engine. A check under the car for any leak sign or something left under the car and when all was ok I'd start the engine and be sure the oil light went out right at engine start. After a moment or two of idling to make sure all was well I'd drive the car off the ramps and let the engine idle while I cleaned up. This included cleaning the "old" housing and putting it in a zipper bag for next time.

Afterwards I'd shut off the engine and gather up my tools and things and then I'd check the oil level.

terbiumactivated

I'm with ya Macster and I respect your knowledge and wrenching skills. I do change the rings, as you stated they are cheap. But I'd equally wager the "failure" of said ring to contain the oil and failure rate of a reused ring would be minuscule to zero events, if the plug loosens the washer is moot. Most vehicles don't even use such a ring, why? Because it's a freaking drain plug and when properly tightened it contains the oil pan oil. If one of these cars so much as drips, we find it and I'm here to say if it ever did drip I'd suspect the questionably designed and redesigned rear main seal before the crush ring. The RMS in the 944 was a weak point as well, at least they're consistent.

LexVan

Go away, troll. Either offer something to the conversation, or GFY.

Dave in Chicago

Old school 987's can use this... Like it.

https://lnengineering.com/billet-al-...e-s-turbo.html

Dave

'05 987S Arctic Silver
'92 968 SP#
'88 944 NA (gone)

terbiumactivated

That's what I use, that sucker is strong too

Marine Blue

bkrantz

Me, too, on my 987. At the very least, those owners using the stock aluminum plugs should have a spare on hand. Even with care, each time the stock plug gets loosened or tightened, the hex socket gets deformed a bit.

MrMoose

LexVan

Go easy on the L&N plug. Torque Spec is a low 19 ft.lbs. I use one too.