Hall911

Thinking my water pump was the source of my squeak, I proactively replaced it and installed a lower Temp thermostat. Buttoned up, topped off coolant and distilled water, and now Temp gauge is blinking at the top of the Temp range, and I haven't seen the needle move yet.

I haven't driven it, but let it idle and Rev a bit, just worried if air is trapped wherever the sensor is or at the thermostat, it won't circulate. Heat is hot.

How long does your car normally take to register on Temp gauge? I should have noted this before. Any other tips? I have brake bleeder to pressure if that is adaptable.

terbiumactivated

Going from memory here... There is a procedure outlined in the manual that speaks about leaving the cap in a special position for the system to purge itself of air bubbles. There are also techniques / equipment that pull a vacuum in the system to eradicate trapped air, I'm not sure how they would work with a Porsche configuration. I am confident you cannot use a brake bleeder to help you. If it starts to overheat and you have no gauge to know to shut it down before it does you could have a very bad day and lose a head gasket, proceed with caution.

danschy

Don't exactly recall, but I think it starts moving within a minute and takes around 10 minutes of driving to hit the standard 175F. I have read the Porsche procedure to replace coolant and it involves vacuum not pressure as best I recall. I believe there is a method to burp the system, which might be what you need to do at this point. Do you have access to the Porsche procedure?

Hall911

I was thinking it was pressurized to move the coolant, but looks like vacuum tool is needed. I ordered off Amazon and will leave parked until I can fully burp the car. I tried letting it sit overnight and still looks full in the tank, nothing burped on its own. I topped off but it immediately overflows under the car.

I didn't trust the temp gauge not moving in 5 minutes of run time. I suppose I could back it back up on the ramps and let it sit again, hoping the angle helps air escape, but not hopeful.

Kicker is that the water pump WASN'T the source of my faint squeak. I think it is the idler tension pulley now, but I'll just drive and enjoy, and deal with it in the spring.

danschy

Is it possible you somehow disconnected the temp gauge during water pump replacement (no idea where it is)? Are you adding fluid in the normal spot? Lacking a vacuum attachment, you might have more success adding directly to the overflow tank under the engine cover. Last time I had the cover off I could not figure out how the coolant level gauge / fill area worked since it appears to be lower than the coolant tank. Pelican is usually a good source of information.

Pep!RRRR

I just went through the procedure with my 2014 Cayman, which has a different engine and so may not be relevant. The vacuum driven burp procedure requires a pretty decent compressor to power it. Also, my engine has a bleed valve on top of the engine separate from the coolant add port. This valve needs to be open (mine has a wire hoop on top that snaps down to close-up to open. We ran the vacuum for about 15 minutes and then did a coolant top off using the vacuum to draw coolant from a bucket. Depending on the amount of bubbles sucked out of the coolant system you may not need to add much, but the vacuum fill pretty much determines this for you. After the vacuum fill we drove the car with the bale (bleed valve) open and the engine cover off. Not sure this last step was really needed, but the sound was awesome!

Hall911

Similar setup, I added through the trunk filler first, then opened the cover and added directly to the expansion tank, with the air bleeder open. It did gurgle a bit and took a bit more, but still nothing on the gauge. I'll wait for the vacuum bleeder to arrive.

I doubt it, I didn't see any wiring down there. I have a huge compressor so don't think that will be an issue.

MrMoose

Vacuum filler from Amazon worked perfectly on my 987.2. That's the factory refill procedure.

You need 90-100 PSI but don't need a huge compressor. I've got a 1.5hp unit that's only 6 gallons and it worked fine. Had to let it refill a couple of times during the vacuuming but that wasn't a problem.

terbiumactivated

Hall 911, check your spark plugs, if one is loose it will make a squeaking sound. Additionally, you can press the bearing out of the rollers and tensioner and buy them at NAPA cheap if you decide to eliminate them as a culprit.

danschy

can you provide link to amazon vacuum filler?

Hall911

I did replace plugs recently, but it really sounds like a pulley. It stops when I WD-40 but I'll take a closer look.

Any link to the bearing replacement process or a write-up? Sure would beat replacing a bunch of $80 pulleys and something to tinker with this winter when parked.

MrMoose

Search for "Uview Airlift Economy." It's $88.

badabing

You use that tool on a completely empty system to create a vacuum, test for leaks, and then suck the coolant in.

You do not use it on a partially filled or almost full system to pull out air bubbles.

danschy

OK, but it appeared to work for the OP. What do you suggest be used? [Edit: sorry, just noticed it was MrMoose, not the OP, that mentioned it had worked.]

PorscheAddict

Pretty sure that tool is also what Schnell recommends to install the 3rd rad on 981's?