Porsche Noobie. What maintenance to accomplish on "new" 2011 Cayman with 44k miles?
08-17-2017, 02:47 AM
#1
Porsche Noobie. What maintenance to accomplish on "new" 2011 Cayman with 44k miles?
Okay guys and ladies, be gentle on the Porsche Noob. 
I just purchased a 2011 Cayman with PDK transmission and Sports Package. It does not have the PASM.
It has 44k miles. I purchased from Carmax which will not provide me any history beyond Carfax. It is being shipped from the Carolinas to me here in the state of Washington at this moment.
Typically (at least in the e39 BMW forum) noobs first ask about mods and hp gains. I currently own, and will continue to own, an e39 BMW 530I with 145K miles.
I am more than an E39 owner, I am a BMW enthusiasts. I will also likely become a Porsche enthusiast.
With this in mind, my first order of business is to start maintenance on a good footing by listening to the experts in this forum just as I have listened to the experts in the Bimerfest e39 forum.
I would place my mechanical skill level around 6 on a scale of 1-10 . Although I can tackle jobs such as oil changes. I tend to let the stealer do them because the savings are fairly insignificant versus my time and effort. I performed one oil change on my e39 just to say I did it.
On my BMW I DIY: spark plugs, differential fluid replace, brake fluid flush/fill, air filter, cabin filters, and basically anything where you don't have to tear the engine down or remove a bunch of stuff to get to.
I am here to learn from you guys and ladies and to share my noob experiences as they come.
So please educate me on what are some of the maintenance items I should address within the first week, month, quarter, six months, or year of delivery on my 44k miles, 2011 Cayman with PDK and Sports package?
Thanks!
I just purchased a 2011 Cayman with PDK transmission and Sports Package. It does not have the PASM.
It has 44k miles. I purchased from Carmax which will not provide me any history beyond Carfax. It is being shipped from the Carolinas to me here in the state of Washington at this moment.
Typically (at least in the e39 BMW forum) noobs first ask about mods and hp gains. I currently own, and will continue to own, an e39 BMW 530I with 145K miles.
I am more than an E39 owner, I am a BMW enthusiasts. I will also likely become a Porsche enthusiast.
With this in mind, my first order of business is to start maintenance on a good footing by listening to the experts in this forum just as I have listened to the experts in the Bimerfest e39 forum.
I would place my mechanical skill level around 6 on a scale of 1-10 . Although I can tackle jobs such as oil changes. I tend to let the stealer do them because the savings are fairly insignificant versus my time and effort. I performed one oil change on my e39 just to say I did it.
On my BMW I DIY: spark plugs, differential fluid replace, brake fluid flush/fill, air filter, cabin filters, and basically anything where you don't have to tear the engine down or remove a bunch of stuff to get to.
I am here to learn from you guys and ladies and to share my noob experiences as they come.
So please educate me on what are some of the maintenance items I should address within the first week, month, quarter, six months, or year of delivery on my 44k miles, 2011 Cayman with PDK and Sports package?
Thanks!
08-17-2017, 11:52 AM
#2
Race Director
Generally speaking if you have no service history on the car my recommendation is to do an oil/filter service right away.
At the same time have a brake, and if equipped with a manual, clutch fluid flush/bleed done. Obviously in the case of your car with its PDK this clutch fluid flush/bleed doesn't apply.
If coolant and power steering fluid levels are ok there is no need to concern yourself with those.
(As an aside, even though Porsche considers coolant a "lifetime" fluid I like to change the coolant every 4 to 5 years. OTOH, I have never changed the power steering fluid. In my Boxster this fluid is over 15 years old and has covered over 313K miles.)
Regardingt the PDK 44K miles is a bit early for a fluid/diff fluid change. However, a PDK is an unknown to me and I might consider having a fluid/filter service done. My thinking would be to try to give -- within reason -- the PDK every chance to last a long long time. I'd do the same for a Tip. And in the past have done an early fluid service on a manual transmission. (Did one at 30K miles on my 996 Turbo. The tech spotted a leaking seal and the transmission was replaced under CPO warranty.)
For both of my cars a transmission/diff fluid service is one of the least expensive services. For my Boxster the labor is just 0.3 hour. The Turbo labor time is a bit higher. More panels have to be removed to get at the transmission and there is the front diff (AWD) but the cost is not that high. For a PDK of course the service will be more money but in my opinion worth it.
Spark plugs can be replaced based on miles or time. For your car I don't know the plug change schedule based on time and sometimes Porsche changes this so my advice is vsit the local dealer and get a printout of the latest servicing schedule for your car.
SOP is to when changing the plugs carefully check the coils over for any signs of degradation and replace them if they are showing signs of exposure to the elements. 'course, if the engine is misfiring this then could have the coils replaced regardless of how they look.
In some areas coils suffer from exposure in other areas not so much.
What I am forgetting? Oh yeah, air filters. The engine air filter and the cabin air filter. You can change these yourself.
The idea is within a reasonable time you bring the car's servicing up to date so you can then going forward follow a reasonable service schedule to help the car continue to deliver a long and trouble free service life.
What else? Check the radiator ducts. If trash present one might be able to blow this out with compressed air and judicious application of same. When I have my cars in for service the tech blows out the radiator ducts with the cars on the lift.
If the trash build up is severe you might need to have the bumper cover removed and the A/C condenser carefully unbolted -- do not disconnect the lines! -- and swung out the way just enough to remove what collects between the condenser and the radiator.
While there are write ups on this procedure my experience is the locations and type of fasteners can be different. So my advice is read the DIY but take pics, note the fit of the bumper cover, make a sketch of where every fastener is and note what style it is and how the other underbody and wheel liner panels fit with regards to the bumper cover so you can install the bumper cover exactly as it was before.
Locate and check the body water drains. These are located on either side of the battery under the front trunk lid. You'll need to remove the plastic covers, one on either side of the battery. A Torx security tool bit is required for at least my cars. Not sure about the size. Just pick up a set of bits with a handle.
Carefully remove any trash and be sure water drains right out to the ground. You want these drains working. If water backs up it can overflow into the cabin and the car's security module is located on the cabin floor under one of seats and any exposure to water ruins this module.
After every car wash or after some time in the rain check along the door bottoms for any signs of dampness. If there is dampness this can arise from a failed door membrane which is letting water from the wet side of the door into the dry side. My experience is this most often a problem with older cars -- both membranes in my 2002 Boxster had to be replaced recently -- but you want to develop a habit of checking this because as with the body water drains a leaking door can let water into the cabin.
Even if the cabin stays "dry" the water in dry side of the door can cause electrical gremlins if left alone.
Oh, after washing the car arrange to take the car out and drive it enough so you can use the brakes to get them hot to dry them. If the car is washed and then left to dry the brake rotors rust up. While in most cases the rust does no harm there is a risk of using the brakes in such a way that the rust can result in uneven deposition of pad material on the rotor and brakes can pulse afterwards. (This happened with my VW Golf TDi.)
Be sure after you service the car you find the time, make teh time to drive the car. A lot. I've put over 313K miles on my 2002 Boxster. It still runs great and is still a pleasure to drive.
At the same time have a brake, and if equipped with a manual, clutch fluid flush/bleed done. Obviously in the case of your car with its PDK this clutch fluid flush/bleed doesn't apply.
If coolant and power steering fluid levels are ok there is no need to concern yourself with those.
(As an aside, even though Porsche considers coolant a "lifetime" fluid I like to change the coolant every 4 to 5 years. OTOH, I have never changed the power steering fluid. In my Boxster this fluid is over 15 years old and has covered over 313K miles.)
Regardingt the PDK 44K miles is a bit early for a fluid/diff fluid change. However, a PDK is an unknown to me and I might consider having a fluid/filter service done. My thinking would be to try to give -- within reason -- the PDK every chance to last a long long time. I'd do the same for a Tip. And in the past have done an early fluid service on a manual transmission. (Did one at 30K miles on my 996 Turbo. The tech spotted a leaking seal and the transmission was replaced under CPO warranty.)
For both of my cars a transmission/diff fluid service is one of the least expensive services. For my Boxster the labor is just 0.3 hour. The Turbo labor time is a bit higher. More panels have to be removed to get at the transmission and there is the front diff (AWD) but the cost is not that high. For a PDK of course the service will be more money but in my opinion worth it.
Spark plugs can be replaced based on miles or time. For your car I don't know the plug change schedule based on time and sometimes Porsche changes this so my advice is vsit the local dealer and get a printout of the latest servicing schedule for your car.
SOP is to when changing the plugs carefully check the coils over for any signs of degradation and replace them if they are showing signs of exposure to the elements. 'course, if the engine is misfiring this then could have the coils replaced regardless of how they look.
In some areas coils suffer from exposure in other areas not so much.
What I am forgetting? Oh yeah, air filters. The engine air filter and the cabin air filter. You can change these yourself.
The idea is within a reasonable time you bring the car's servicing up to date so you can then going forward follow a reasonable service schedule to help the car continue to deliver a long and trouble free service life.
What else? Check the radiator ducts. If trash present one might be able to blow this out with compressed air and judicious application of same. When I have my cars in for service the tech blows out the radiator ducts with the cars on the lift.
If the trash build up is severe you might need to have the bumper cover removed and the A/C condenser carefully unbolted -- do not disconnect the lines! -- and swung out the way just enough to remove what collects between the condenser and the radiator.
While there are write ups on this procedure my experience is the locations and type of fasteners can be different. So my advice is read the DIY but take pics, note the fit of the bumper cover, make a sketch of where every fastener is and note what style it is and how the other underbody and wheel liner panels fit with regards to the bumper cover so you can install the bumper cover exactly as it was before.
Locate and check the body water drains. These are located on either side of the battery under the front trunk lid. You'll need to remove the plastic covers, one on either side of the battery. A Torx security tool bit is required for at least my cars. Not sure about the size. Just pick up a set of bits with a handle.
Carefully remove any trash and be sure water drains right out to the ground. You want these drains working. If water backs up it can overflow into the cabin and the car's security module is located on the cabin floor under one of seats and any exposure to water ruins this module.
After every car wash or after some time in the rain check along the door bottoms for any signs of dampness. If there is dampness this can arise from a failed door membrane which is letting water from the wet side of the door into the dry side. My experience is this most often a problem with older cars -- both membranes in my 2002 Boxster had to be replaced recently -- but you want to develop a habit of checking this because as with the body water drains a leaking door can let water into the cabin.
Even if the cabin stays "dry" the water in dry side of the door can cause electrical gremlins if left alone.
Oh, after washing the car arrange to take the car out and drive it enough so you can use the brakes to get them hot to dry them. If the car is washed and then left to dry the brake rotors rust up. While in most cases the rust does no harm there is a risk of using the brakes in such a way that the rust can result in uneven deposition of pad material on the rotor and brakes can pulse afterwards. (This happened with my VW Golf TDi.)
Be sure after you service the car you find the time, make teh time to drive the car. A lot. I've put over 313K miles on my 2002 Boxster. It still runs great and is still a pleasure to drive.
08-17-2017, 11:59 AM
#3
Rennlist Member
Welcome!
I've been into BMW's for 20 years as well! If you google 'porsche cayman maintenance schedule' the second entry should be a .pdf download from Blue Grass Motorsport. It has the maintenance schedule and price list. This is what I went off of when deciding what maintenance to do on my 8 year old 23,000 mile Cayman. The pricing may also help you to decide what you want to tackle vs taking it to the dealer. It was pretty close to what Porsche St. Louis said they would charge for the 40,000 maintenance, which is what I completed.
08-17-2017, 12:42 PM
#5
short version......since you will not be doing the work take it to the po dealer now for service and every year after that........skip the cabin filter and brake flush to save a few bucks.....no HBO drama .....talk to some owners in your area to see if a really REALLY good indy is near you
08-17-2017, 12:57 PM
#6
Race Director
short version......since you will not be doing the work take it to the po dealer now for service and every year after that........skip the cabin filter and brake flush to save a few bucks.....no HBO drama .....talk to some owners in your area to see if a really REALLY good indy is near you
In the OP's case absent any knowledge of when this was last done it is his best interest to have it done and get this vital fluid service back on schedule.
The cabin filter develops a foul odor after a while. If you like the smell leave the filter in service. Or remove filter and then the evaporator collects all the stuff that the filter would have caught and the odor develops at the evaporator and then it is much harder to deal with.
08-17-2017, 01:31 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Nice car, welcome.
Nice writeup by Macster too.
Replacing quality DOT4/5 brake fluid every 2 years is overkill IMO for non-tracked cars. I flush if/when they feel spongy on street only cars, and every couple of events for tracked cars. YMMV.
Nice writeup by Macster too.
Replacing quality DOT4/5 brake fluid every 2 years is overkill IMO for non-tracked cars. I flush if/when they feel spongy on street only cars, and every couple of events for tracked cars. YMMV.
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08-17-2017, 01:46 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Spongy feel is very subjective. The 2 year brake flush is not just a Porsche thing, but something that every manufacturer I've seen recommends. My brake fluid was 8 years old! The PO was an idiot, you should have seen the crap that came out of my system. Oh, and the pedal felt fine, not spongy.
08-17-2017, 03:39 PM
#9
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great indi shop in Redmond: Chris's German Auto Service (porsche only despite the name). has ex- porsche dealer techs and they're a great bunch of guys.
9107 151st Ave NE
Redmond, WA 98052
425. 462. 9296
Chris@ChrisGerman.com
Monday - Friday
8:00am - 6:00pm
9107 151st Ave NE
Redmond, WA 98052
425. 462. 9296
Chris@ChrisGerman.com
Monday - Friday
8:00am - 6:00pm
08-17-2017, 07:05 PM
#10
Macster, thank you for the extremely detailed information. I really appreciate the time you took to write it too. 
Additionally, I thank all of the respondents for their input. There are a lot of useful responses here. This should become a sticky post for new owners to go to due to the responses IMHO.
Feel free to keep em coming.
Additionally, I thank all of the respondents for their input. There are a lot of useful responses here. This should become a sticky post for new owners to go to due to the responses IMHO.
Feel free to keep em coming.
Last edited by seemyad; 08-18-2017 at 09:21 PM.
08-17-2017, 07:21 PM
#11
Changing the brake fluid every two or three years is actually designed to protect the internal chambers, connections, and lines from corrosion.
Quite often, by the time there is enough water in the lines to degrade the stiffness of the pedal, there is more than enough ppm to initiate the corrosion process.
Thank you for your response to my op as it has generated some thought provoking discussion.
08-17-2017, 11:42 PM
#12
I've been into BMW's for 20 years as well! If you google 'porsche cayman maintenance schedule' the second entry should be a .pdf download from Blue Grass Motorsport. It has the maintenance schedule and price list. This is what I went off of when deciding what maintenance to do on my 8 year old 23,000 mile Cayman. The pricing may also help you to decide what you want to tackle vs taking it to the dealer. It was pretty close to what Porsche St. Louis said they would charge for the 40,000 maintenance, which is what I completed.
Here is the link to it.
Cayman Service Brochure
http://porschedealer.com/pdf/Cayman_...e_Brochure.pdf
If posting a link to a manual is against forum rules someone please let me know and I will remove it ASAP.
Last edited by seemyad; 08-18-2017 at 09:22 PM.
