Progress on my wifes motor
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Progress on my wifes motor
This is the part where every bolt that gets torqued down makes my hair stand up!
The right bolt that holds the timing belt cover backer (also has metal spacer) does not feel good and problem is it goes through the oil pump
Its a 6 x 70 mm hex bolt. I have ordered a 6 x 75 mm in hopes that there is enough space and that there are a few more threads back in there, will hand tighten first!! Fingers crossed.
Put the new lifters in a jar with some 30w break in oil and vacuumed out the air, you can see the bubbles coming out. (read about that on this forum, Spencer I think...) Genius idea. Wonder how long it can now sit in engine before it slowly comes back out??
Getting Closer, the worrying is in full gear as I get closer to setting up the cams.
The right bolt that holds the timing belt cover backer (also has metal spacer) does not feel good and problem is it goes through the oil pump
Its a 6 x 70 mm hex bolt. I have ordered a 6 x 75 mm in hopes that there is enough space and that there are a few more threads back in there, will hand tighten first!! Fingers crossed.
Put the new lifters in a jar with some 30w break in oil and vacuumed out the air, you can see the bubbles coming out. (read about that on this forum, Spencer I think...) Genius idea. Wonder how long it can now sit in engine before it slowly comes back out??
Getting Closer, the worrying is in full gear as I get closer to setting up the cams.
#2
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
3 options you could try.
1) take your bolt and lightly oil the threads. then get a dollop of epoxy and put it over the oiled threads.
thread the bolt into the hole all the way and give it any torque you might be able to give. the epoxy will harden into the shape of new threads around the bolt and the threads (oiled) will not stick to the epoxy.
2) drill the hole and tap for a M6 helicoil
3) drill and tap the hole for a 1/4" bolt.
i'd probably just do #3.
1) take your bolt and lightly oil the threads. then get a dollop of epoxy and put it over the oiled threads.
thread the bolt into the hole all the way and give it any torque you might be able to give. the epoxy will harden into the shape of new threads around the bolt and the threads (oiled) will not stick to the epoxy.
2) drill the hole and tap for a M6 helicoil
3) drill and tap the hole for a 1/4" bolt.
i'd probably just do #3.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
3 options you could try.
1) take your bolt and lightly oil the threads. then get a dollop of epoxy and put it over the oiled threads.
thread the bolt into the hole all the way and give it any torque you might be able to give. the epoxy will harden into the shape of new threads around the bolt and the threads (oiled) will not stick to the epoxy.
2) drill the hole and tap for a M6 helicoil
3) drill and tap the hole for a 1/4" bolt.
i'd probably just do #3.
1) take your bolt and lightly oil the threads. then get a dollop of epoxy and put it over the oiled threads.
thread the bolt into the hole all the way and give it any torque you might be able to give. the epoxy will harden into the shape of new threads around the bolt and the threads (oiled) will not stick to the epoxy.
2) drill the hole and tap for a M6 helicoil
3) drill and tap the hole for a 1/4" bolt.
i'd probably just do #3.
Thanks for the ideas. I got looking at it some more, got the 75 mm bolt and it did offer some "extra" threads and thought that it would work nicely with some red thread locker. After looking some more I thought that this cover may need to come off a few times in its life for belt changes and water pump changes so I scrapped the longer bolt and red thread locker idea as I thought the next time this thing came out even if it held nicely today would bring the remainder of the aluminum threads with it.(red thread locker is mean stuff)
I found an M6 x 100 all thread piece. It also allowed me to thread all the way to "stop point" where some extra good threads were. Put it in marked it, cut it off tight as the belt passes through this area. Mixed some JB weld epoxy and put on the threads and inserted. In 24 hours I hope to have a nice permanent fix that allows for the easy future removal/re-use.
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I think what I have learned on this engine rebuild is that it is not enough for the machine shop to clean the block (hot tank)
That I should have been prepared to chase every M6 hole on the front of this engine with some brake kleen and an M6 tap. Clean, chase, blow out, repeat.
Frustrating at this stage... Live and learn. Im sure every engine builder already knows this on an aluminum block
That I should have been prepared to chase every M6 hole on the front of this engine with some brake kleen and an M6 tap. Clean, chase, blow out, repeat.
Frustrating at this stage... Live and learn. Im sure every engine builder already knows this on an aluminum block
#5
Registered User
Originally Posted by jsheiry
I think what I have learned on this engine rebuild is that it is not enough for the machine shop to clean the block (hot tank)
That I should have been prepared to chase every M6 hole on the front of this engine with some brake kleen and an M6 tap. Clean, chase, blow out, repeat.
Frustrating at this stage... Live and learn. Im sure every engine builder already knows this on an aluminum block
That I should have been prepared to chase every M6 hole on the front of this engine with some brake kleen and an M6 tap. Clean, chase, blow out, repeat.
Frustrating at this stage... Live and learn. Im sure every engine builder already knows this on an aluminum block
Why did you rebuild?
Would love to rebuild an engine one of these days. It's kind of the ultimate DIY.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Purchased this car for my wife 4/5 years ago with known bad head bent valves from timing belt failure. 140K on the clock. Pulled head to get valves repaired then decided to do rings & bearings. By the time all the WYIT stuff got bought Im rebuilding the whole thing and learning lots on the way! Seemed innocent enough initially...
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#8
Registered User
Originally Posted by jsheiry
Purchased this car for my wife 4/5 years ago with known bad head bent valves from timing belt failure. 140K on the clock. Pulled head to get valves repaired then decided to do rings & bearings. By the time all the WYIT stuff got bought Im rebuilding the whole thing and learning lots on the way! Seemed innocent enough initially...
#9
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Thread Starter
Im using the PDF of the 968 workshop manual, clarks garage, write ups from this forum, and any other useful thing I can print and stare at in the garage. Interestingly also using the 944 PDF workshop manual as Porsche did not rewrite much of the things that overlap in the 968 manual if its already in the 944 manual and the same. Frustrating way to find things at times.
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Got the cams installed today. At least on the third try I got it correct. The first time I set them on the head and was preparing to press the cams down I noticed that I had not taken the wire off that held the vario cam unit compressed.
Ok take them back out, release the wire tool holding the vario cam compressed, wow thats a lot of pressure on the two sprockets, set back in the head and get ready to press the cams down and noticed that the whole thing both cams had rotated a bit and now not sitting where the should be??
Take them back out realign everything, now install properly on the third attempt.
After putting a few things back together and attempting to install cam/timing belt I realize there is NO way this thing is getting on the cam pulley. Take a quick pic of belt part number and go inside and figure out they sent me a 944 Cam belt with my 968 front reseal kit, rollers etc.... Its Sunday and so Im finished for a few days until I can get this sorted out.
Ok take them back out, release the wire tool holding the vario cam compressed, wow thats a lot of pressure on the two sprockets, set back in the head and get ready to press the cams down and noticed that the whole thing both cams had rotated a bit and now not sitting where the should be??
Take them back out realign everything, now install properly on the third attempt.
After putting a few things back together and attempting to install cam/timing belt I realize there is NO way this thing is getting on the cam pulley. Take a quick pic of belt part number and go inside and figure out they sent me a 944 Cam belt with my 968 front reseal kit, rollers etc.... Its Sunday and so Im finished for a few days until I can get this sorted out.
#11
Rennlist Member
much respect for your efforts. there was a time where I thought I would want to try rebuilding my engine myself, but I think I don't have the time to make up for the learning curve and surely don't have the $$$ to cover amateur mistakes or mistakes made rushing to get it done. so, kudos to you.
#12
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Thread Starter
Few Updates:
Put the new Tiptronic Dampener in ($1000 while your in there... car has 146,000)
Installed timing belt & balance shaft belts and various other items where its nearly ready to go in. Have NOT timed the cams yet, that is a complete other adventure I will tackle this week. Only have one dial gage and need to borrow or purchase another.
Put the new Tiptronic Dampener in ($1000 while your in there... car has 146,000)
Installed timing belt & balance shaft belts and various other items where its nearly ready to go in. Have NOT timed the cams yet, that is a complete other adventure I will tackle this week. Only have one dial gage and need to borrow or purchase another.
#14
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Thread Starter
Update with before and after pics