Timing belt, finding TDC, Tensioner
#1
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Timing belt, finding TDC, Tensioner
Im going to replace the Timing belt before I move the car. But I can't find TDC.... I have tried and tried, Yes, I moved it very very slowly(had someone else move it actually) Now there is a scrape down the entire middle section (between sensor timing marks and the starter teeth)
seems like maybe a bolt was dropped in there and scraped it, but its not that deep, seems like they stamp would still be visible.... But I dont see jack!
is there ANY OTHER way to do it safely? I did have a rod down in #1 and watched it move up and down.
seems like maybe a bolt was dropped in there and scraped it, but its not that deep, seems like they stamp would still be visible.... But I dont see jack!
is there ANY OTHER way to do it safely? I did have a rod down in #1 and watched it move up and down.
#2
When I did mine I held a drum stick on the top of #1 cylinder and turned the crank with a wrench until the drum stick was at it's highest point or top dead center. I could not find any marks under the car that had any value. Be not afraid of simplicity.
#3
Rennlist Member
Im going to replace the Timing belt before I move the car. But I can't find TDC.... I have tried and tried, Yes, I moved it very very slowly(had someone else move it actually) Now there is a scrape down the entire middle section (between sensor timing marks and the starter teeth) seems like maybe a bolt was dropped in there and scraped it, but its not that deep, seems like they stamp would still be visible.... But I dont see jack! is there ANY OTHER way to do it safely? I did have a rod down in #1 and watched it move up and down.
#4
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Also dont forget to only turn motor in normal direction of travel during the belt changes and adjustments. Standing in front of car with socket on crank that would be clockwise or for you digital watches "righty tighty"
Last edited by jsheiry; 08-20-2017 at 11:53 AM. Reason: clarity
#5
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Thread Starter
I just had a thought. Since the 968 has the split bellhousing can I open it up and see the tdc mark that way? Then I could mark it with paint and hopefully see it through the window on top?
#6
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Putting a plastic or wooden dowel down in number one works well but dont forget that the piston arrives at TDC two times and only one of them is firing TDC. There is also a timing mark on the cam shaft drive gear that lines up with mark on cam gear housing (black) so when you turn engine manually watching your dowell you should see the cam gear marks line up when at TDC firing. Once you find it this way there is a good chance you will see the mark on the flywheel and then you can scrub off the rust/oxidation so that its easier to locate next time
I know the 944s have the hole at the bottom of the bell housing, does the 968 also have this?
Lets assume there is NO TDC mark (for the top viewport anyway)
how else can I TRIPLE check I line it up right?
On the other hand, Since the car ran fine before and the current belt looks in good condition. If I find the TDC with the wooden stick, AND line up the cam mark. can I just pull the old belt and swap it with out any worry? (and should I bother with the flywheel lock since I don't intend to pull the crank pulley?)
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#8
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Yes I did exactly that and no luck.
I know the 944s have the hole at the bottom of the bell housing, does the 968 also have this?
Lets assume there is NO TDC mark (for the top viewport anyway)
how else can I TRIPLE check I line it up right?
On the other hand, Since the car ran fine before and the current belt looks in good condition. If I find the TDC with the wooden stick, AND line up the cam mark. can I just pull the old belt and swap it with out any worry? (and should I bother with the flywheel lock since I don't intend to pull the crank pulley?)
I know the 944s have the hole at the bottom of the bell housing, does the 968 also have this?
Lets assume there is NO TDC mark (for the top viewport anyway)
how else can I TRIPLE check I line it up right?
On the other hand, Since the car ran fine before and the current belt looks in good condition. If I find the TDC with the wooden stick, AND line up the cam mark. can I just pull the old belt and swap it with out any worry? (and should I bother with the flywheel lock since I don't intend to pull the crank pulley?)
I believe this is all covered in the workshop manual as well. There is also a note that replacement cam gears do not have the TDC mark and should be marked/scribed when installed.
#10
As posted below you really need to confirm true firing TDC by #1 piston position being at the very top of its stroke( I use a wood rod) combined with the cam TDC mark being positioned at the 1 oclock position and matching the cutout on the rear black plastic belt cover located at the very front of the engine.
No do not just cut the belt. If you just cut the belt then attempt to locate TDC you will have piston/ valves touch each other as you rotate them into position. Both Cam shafts and the crank shaft must rotate in a timed manner at all times. Not a good idea.
No do not just cut the belt. If you just cut the belt then attempt to locate TDC you will have piston/ valves touch each other as you rotate them into position. Both Cam shafts and the crank shaft must rotate in a timed manner at all times. Not a good idea.
#11
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Thread Starter
Oh, I meant cut the belt AFTER i find tdc. So I did use the wood rod method, but then I was under the car and just happen to notice a mark on the bottom of the pulley lined up with a red mark on the rear belt cover (with similar red marks on the cam pulley)
#12
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There is a hole to check TDC in the bell housing cover plate which is behind the oil pan. I found it helpful to remove the plate entirely, clean the fly wheel mark (I recall it had some indication like this:" ( I ) " ); then I used a paint pen to mark the "I" only so I could easily view it in the bell housing plate view hole.
I believe this is all covered in the workshop manual as well. There is also a note that replacement cam gears do not have the TDC mark and should be marked/scribed when installed.
I believe this is all covered in the workshop manual as well. There is also a note that replacement cam gears do not have the TDC mark and should be marked/scribed when installed.
Pulled the clutch access plate but that was no help.
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#14
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NOW, how do I pull off the tensioner arm? I pulled off the C-clip but the arm doesn't slide out??
BTW does anyone know what size the C-clip is? I may have lost it.
BTW does anyone know what size the C-clip is? I may have lost it.
#15
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Originally Posted by Not_Sure
NOW, how do I pull off the tensioner arm? I pulled off the C-clip but the arm doesn't slide out??
BTW does anyone know what size the C-clip is? I may have lost it.
BTW does anyone know what size the C-clip is? I may have lost it.
Might have to order the circlip from the dealer.