docmirror

It just won't end with this car. I think I have the dreaded weak clutch firewall issue. I was driving along today, and the clutch went progressively further down in the well before disengaging. I shifted without the clutch to get back home, and by the time I got to the driveway, the clutch would barely release, and it was stiff on my foot.

Once more into the breach.

chudson

Probably not the case Doc - sounds more like a hydraulic issue. Either a fluid leak or possibly a defective clutch master cylinder. Neither of my cars have ever experienced the firewall failure but those who have don't loose clutch operation that quickly. The firewall has to get REALLY bad before shifting is affected and typically a reduction in pedal stroke and/or a poping noise is experienced when the pedal is depressed.

As for your first topic you are correct. It is a 20 year old car and far more sophisticated than most early 90's cars. If used frequently it will always need something. I've been in the automotive industry 43 years and I don't have one customer with a 20 year old anything that gets by with zero repairs. But it is a high quality car for its day and for the most part they are very reliable with few inherent issues.

Josh B

I agree - would be pretty unlikely for the firewall to fail that quick.

MGW-Fla

Sounds like you're due for the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder, & hose replacement. I'm about to do mine as well.

tamathumper

Pretty easy to tell if the firewall is flexing if you have a friend pump the clutch (if it still can be pumped) while you watch the clutch master cylinder for movement. If the failure is bad enough, you'll see it without moving the clutch pedal.

Are (were) you using the stock pressure plate, or a heavier one?

MB968

What did you mean by this. Was it hard to push the clutch pedal down. If so, it could have something to do with the fork hanging up on it's pivot rod.

docmirror

Well, update is both good and bad.

You'll are right, it wasn't the firewall deforming. I have a brake/clutch fluid leak somewhere. I was able to fill the reservoir, and back bleed the clutch and it's working, now I have to hunt down my slow fluid leak. I replaced the brake master a few months back, so that's where I'll start.

MB968

Sounds like good news if it is just a leak. If you lost enough fluid to cause issues with the clutch (doesn't the clutch pull off fluid low in the brake reservoir), the leak should be obvious.

docmirror

The clutch line is higher on the reservoir so it will go dry first. I've given it a cursory glance and nothing is obvious at this point.

monteolsen1

I had this problem about three months ago and replaced both the master and slave cylinders as well as the hose. I couldn't believe the difference. It was almost as if I got a brand new clutch and pressure plate. It is a worthwhile repair. I bought my parts off of Amazon.

BikePilot

Same here, clutch started to get low and about the same time I got a drip of fluid on my toe! New master, slave, and a good bleed sorted it.

One thing I did discover is that the master clevis and pivot pin in the pedal were badly worn. The plastic bush was gone and the metal was worn away by ~1/8". I replaced the lot and the clutch feel improved dramatically. It wasn't bad before by any absolute standard--better than many brand-new cars, but the pedal is so much smoother and more precise now it's awesome.

The bits aren't expensive so if they are suspect I'd just swap them out.

Main leaking points are the master cyl seal (look under the boot, you've gotta crawl under the dash), slave seal (not much work to pop the slave off and have a look), and rubber clutch line (typically at the joint where it turns to metal).