wtb 968 what should i check for on prepurchase inspection
06-19-2013, 06:07 PM
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wtb 968 what should i check for on prepurchase inspection
hello, going to look at 968. mechanic friend has a customer who is wanting to sell. has 85000 miles, (not sure what yr yet). suppose to have a lsd, sport seats, (whats the chance for m030 opt. (i wish/hope)) any way hoping to see it friday night. what are the big $ issues after the belts/pump? should be able to get service records since mechanic friend started working on it. any insight would be greatly appreciated. thanks and GOD BLESS
06-19-2013, 10:07 PM
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Other than all the normal maint. issues that you can read about on this site, my biggest issue that I've uncovered are electrical connectors that are broken due to age/heat. Look for connectors that have tape around them. I have several in easy view that I should have seen. So, have your mechanic check for these.
Also one other electrical issue is the power wire that goes from the alternator to the starter (and on to the battery). The OEM wire is a wire inside a wire, small one buried inside is for the solenoid on the starter as I recall, and the other is the power cable. Aging insulation allows a short, which engages the starter. Unless someone prior to you has fixed this, you will want to replace this combo wire. There is someone, don't remember the name of the vendor who has been making replacement cables out of two separate wires. Or, if you or your mechanic are handy with wiring, you can easily make this cable yourself.
Also one other electrical issue is the power wire that goes from the alternator to the starter (and on to the battery). The OEM wire is a wire inside a wire, small one buried inside is for the solenoid on the starter as I recall, and the other is the power cable. Aging insulation allows a short, which engages the starter. Unless someone prior to you has fixed this, you will want to replace this combo wire. There is someone, don't remember the name of the vendor who has been making replacement cables out of two separate wires. Or, if you or your mechanic are handy with wiring, you can easily make this cable yourself.
06-20-2013, 09:26 AM
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some but not all off the top of my head;
1. when, if ever, was the complete timing system (including the front seals, timing chain, timing chain tensioner pads, hall effect sensor) updated? ($2,800-$3,000 @80~120 k miles)....
2. not to be confused with when were the belts/pullies/tensioner/water pump done? (all should be done together).
3. when was the AC pump replaced? (the lifespan of the AC pump is about 80 k miles).
4. unless everything was done recently, your ps pump, reservoir and hoses all leak
(high pressure ps hose will often leak at both ends
).
5. when was the clutch done? ($2,000). have the oil cooler seals been done?
6. has there been a pinion bearing issue with the transmission?
7. next, front lower control arms for ball joints, tie rods/ends should have no play.
little stuff = tune up (incl. spark plug wires and fuel filter), transmission oil, sway bar bushings, caster blocks, shocks, struts (it's time for all of these items), brake rotors (all close to the end of their life @ 85k miles), the (20 year old) calipers may also be nearing the end of their lifespan.... tires changed in last 3~4 years?....
the best deals on 968s are when more of the above items have been done
as opposed to......
1. when, if ever, was the complete timing system (including the front seals, timing chain, timing chain tensioner pads, hall effect sensor) updated? ($2,800-$3,000 @80~120 k miles)....
2. not to be confused with when were the belts/pullies/tensioner/water pump done? (all should be done together).
3. when was the AC pump replaced? (the lifespan of the AC pump is about 80 k miles).
4. unless everything was done recently, your ps pump, reservoir and hoses all leak
(high pressure ps hose will often leak at both ends
). 5. when was the clutch done? ($2,000). have the oil cooler seals been done?
6. has there been a pinion bearing issue with the transmission?
7. next, front lower control arms for ball joints, tie rods/ends should have no play.
little stuff = tune up (incl. spark plug wires and fuel filter), transmission oil, sway bar bushings, caster blocks, shocks, struts (it's time for all of these items), brake rotors (all close to the end of their life @ 85k miles), the (20 year old) calipers may also be nearing the end of their lifespan.... tires changed in last 3~4 years?....
the best deals on 968s are when more of the above items have been done
as opposed to......
Last edited by odurandina; 06-20-2013 at 05:54 PM.
06-20-2013, 04:46 PM
#6
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Leaks around the lower balance shaft belt. It gets hot from the exhaust and leaks are common. Won't hurt the car, but the replacement is a crappy messy job.
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06-20-2013, 05:40 PM
#8
Burning Brakes
A few that I'd add:
1. Check for excessive flex of the firewall when the clutch is depressed. If it appears to be excessive, check carefully for cracks in the firewall.
2. Rear main seal for leaks
3. Watch the clutch high pressure line as the clutch is depressed for signs of bulging
4. Check steering rack where it attaches to the crossmember for signs of wear of the bushings. Check the steering rack for leaks at the same time.
5. Leaks at the transaxle. Common sources are the input shaft seal (expensive to replace because transaxle has to be removed), and the half-axle seals (easier to replace than the input shaft seal, since it can be done without removing the transaxle, but still a fair amount of labor).
6. Power steering pump for leaks. Basically, these cars can, and often do, leak in many, often very expensive, places
7. Take a close look at the axle CV joints for signs of wear or slop
1. Check for excessive flex of the firewall when the clutch is depressed. If it appears to be excessive, check carefully for cracks in the firewall.
2. Rear main seal for leaks
3. Watch the clutch high pressure line as the clutch is depressed for signs of bulging
4. Check steering rack where it attaches to the crossmember for signs of wear of the bushings. Check the steering rack for leaks at the same time.
5. Leaks at the transaxle. Common sources are the input shaft seal (expensive to replace because transaxle has to be removed), and the half-axle seals (easier to replace than the input shaft seal, since it can be done without removing the transaxle, but still a fair amount of labor).
6. Power steering pump for leaks. Basically, these cars can, and often do, leak in many, often very expensive, places
7. Take a close look at the axle CV joints for signs of wear or slop