New to me 93!
05-04-2013, 09:54 PM
#17
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Troy, IL (East of STL)
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Oil Pan Gasket/Rod Bearings/Motor Mounts
I've tackled a lot of jobs but this one was one I hope not to do again (at least on this car
, my other 968 will be next).
This car had years worth of dealer service comments about leaking oil, well not any more! At least for now
I read a lot of "how to" posts and although this is not a how to post I will let you guys on several things I found doing this job.
1) I saw estimates from 6 to 14 hours to do this job. I think it took me 20 total hours split over 5 days. YMMV
2) I did not want to work under the motor with it supported only by wood, rope, and duct tape
The harbor freight engine support only cost me $60 after %20 off coupon. I've seen these resting on the fender lips but I was able to place it on the top of the strut towers and it worked great with the chain around the intake and exhaust manifolds.
3) Lots of talk about what to pull for suspension, someone talked about the whole thing so you might not have to do an alignment. This was a lot of extra work with brakes and such. When I do this on the other car I'll pull the tie rods and lower ball joints and leave the struts, brakes, and hubs alone.
4) When checking rod bearings on #1 I installed new bearings dry (no lube) with plastic gauge and old rod nuts torqued to spec and then pulled everything back off, very time consuming. On the other rods I lubed the top bearing, and did everything else the same. That way I didn't have to put the rubber back on the rod studs and move the pistons again I could do it all from just the cap.
5) Lots of talk about dental floss and wire ties to keep the oil pan gasket in place. I read one post on Paragon where Michael Belfoure talked about using 60-70mm bolts and cutting their heads off to keep the gasket on the block side. This was slick! In the pictures below I could've cut slits in the bolts to use flat blade screw driver to pull these after the pan is partly on. I saved these for the next one and I'll do it then as several where hard to get out due to space....
Harbor Freight engine support lift -
Did I really need to pull it all? May try it differently on the other car! Sorry no after shots, it cleaned up pretty nicely before going back in!
Oil leaks (back of the lower BB shaft was dry, had T/B belts done with seals 5k ago - by local place {before me}) I'll watch and see I may need to pull T/B Belts and check front of lower BB, but oil cooler fittings were dry as well.
Below are old/new bearings. I was surprised at the limited amount of wear on a these with 236K -
Plastic gauge well within specs -
This picture shows the "headless" bolts that helped me keep the gasket in place -
Previous owner had paid (in 2009) $154 for a non OEM motor mount "Meyle" ouch. They're a pain to replace but I also used non OEM "Meyle" even if they only last for three years they are less than a third of the cost of OEM. If I were paying someone else to do them I'd buy OEM
Additional thoughts -
If your car has some vibration at idle change your motor mounts! Absolutely amazed at how smooth the car is now
Next?
1) Issue with the clutch pedal (really low to the floor) history shows it had a broken pedal at one time, as well as replacement MC/slave and new rubber line. I was told it has a new clutch but no paperwork. First thing I'll do is bleed the slave from the bottom by pushing air up.......
2) Records show three timing/balance belts over 236K (last one 5k ago, before I bought it) but no where is there documents about the cam chain/pads. I guess I'll need to check those soon :-)
Cheers
, my other 968 will be next).This car had years worth of dealer service comments about leaking oil, well not any more! At least for now
I read a lot of "how to" posts and although this is not a how to post I will let you guys on several things I found doing this job.
1) I saw estimates from 6 to 14 hours to do this job. I think it took me 20 total hours split over 5 days. YMMV
2) I did not want to work under the motor with it supported only by wood, rope, and duct tape
The harbor freight engine support only cost me $60 after %20 off coupon. I've seen these resting on the fender lips but I was able to place it on the top of the strut towers and it worked great with the chain around the intake and exhaust manifolds.3) Lots of talk about what to pull for suspension, someone talked about the whole thing so you might not have to do an alignment. This was a lot of extra work with brakes and such. When I do this on the other car I'll pull the tie rods and lower ball joints and leave the struts, brakes, and hubs alone.
4) When checking rod bearings on #1 I installed new bearings dry (no lube) with plastic gauge and old rod nuts torqued to spec and then pulled everything back off, very time consuming. On the other rods I lubed the top bearing, and did everything else the same. That way I didn't have to put the rubber back on the rod studs and move the pistons again I could do it all from just the cap.
5) Lots of talk about dental floss and wire ties to keep the oil pan gasket in place. I read one post on Paragon where Michael Belfoure talked about using 60-70mm bolts and cutting their heads off to keep the gasket on the block side. This was slick! In the pictures below I could've cut slits in the bolts to use flat blade screw driver to pull these after the pan is partly on. I saved these for the next one and I'll do it then as several where hard to get out due to space....
Harbor Freight engine support lift -
Did I really need to pull it all? May try it differently on the other car! Sorry no after shots, it cleaned up pretty nicely before going back in!
Oil leaks (back of the lower BB shaft was dry, had T/B belts done with seals 5k ago - by local place {before me}) I'll watch and see I may need to pull T/B Belts and check front of lower BB, but oil cooler fittings were dry as well.
Below are old/new bearings. I was surprised at the limited amount of wear on a these with 236K -
Plastic gauge well within specs -
This picture shows the "headless" bolts that helped me keep the gasket in place -
Previous owner had paid (in 2009) $154 for a non OEM motor mount "Meyle" ouch. They're a pain to replace but I also used non OEM "Meyle" even if they only last for three years they are less than a third of the cost of OEM. If I were paying someone else to do them I'd buy OEM
Additional thoughts -
If your car has some vibration at idle change your motor mounts! Absolutely amazed at how smooth the car is now
Next?
1) Issue with the clutch pedal (really low to the floor) history shows it had a broken pedal at one time, as well as replacement MC/slave and new rubber line. I was told it has a new clutch but no paperwork. First thing I'll do is bleed the slave from the bottom by pushing air up.......
2) Records show three timing/balance belts over 236K (last one 5k ago, before I bought it) but no where is there documents about the cam chain/pads. I guess I'll need to check those soon :-)
Cheers