WTB Left Rear Caliper
#1
Bannana Shine
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WTB Left Rear Caliper
Does anybody have a non-M030 left rear caliper (951 352 421 02) in usable condition [does not have to be pretty, just has to work] that might be for sale?
Thanks!
Thanks!
#2
Hey JDS - not trying to hijack your thread but there is no M030 rear caliper. They are the same part number as standard suspension car.
Last edited by chudson; 11-24-2012 at 04:51 AM.
#3
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Probably not what you are looking for but I have a set, don't want to separate though. Freshly media-blasted, ready for powdercoat/paint/etc. $150 shipped.
#4
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What about pistons/seals, crossover pipes, springs, all that other stuff? Are they in working condition, or do they need further parts/assembly?
#5
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There are some differences in the type of piston seal and "PORSCHE" script when comparing early vs. late calipers starting with the 1986 951 through the 1995 968.
Racers seem to prefer the early style seals. The script issue is cosmetic only.
I have both styles sitting in my garage if you would like pictures.
Racers seem to prefer the early style seals. The script issue is cosmetic only.
I have both styles sitting in my garage if you would like pictures.
#7
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There are some differences in the type of piston seal and "PORSCHE" script when comparing early vs. late calipers starting with the 1986 951 through the 1995 968.
Racers seem to prefer the early style seals. The script issue is cosmetic only.
I have both styles sitting in my garage if you would like pictures.
Racers seem to prefer the early style seals. The script issue is cosmetic only.
I have both styles sitting in my garage if you would like pictures.
Is there any issue with running calipers with the old type seal on the same car with other calipers using the new type seal?
Already rebuilt it, still doesn't function properly. At this point I just want to replace it with a caliper that I know works, and try to diagnose/fix it at my leisure.
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#8
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Is the piston sticking or is the pad binding in the stainless bracket? Rust forms under the bracket and causes the bracket to warp and bind the pad. The brackets are also available as a rebuild part or you can grind a bit on the pad to make sure that it slides in the bracket (not the best solution).
Since the pistons are the same sizes, there should not be an issue with mixing old and new style calipers.
Since the pistons are the same sizes, there should not be an issue with mixing old and new style calipers.
#9
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The piston is "lazy", that is, it extends slowly under braking pressure but not evenly with the other pistons, and I cannot get it to apply full force to the pad, so the pad hits the rotor slightly unevenly.
#10
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Pictures
I hope this is helpful. The First picture is of the 968 caliper (in this case its a 1994). Notice the stenciled PORSCHE logo and the large rubber seals around the pistons. The second picture is of an earlier caliper (in this case I believe it to be a 1986 951 caliper). You can see that the PORSCHE logo is part of the casting and has large block type. The font type may have been different for later calipers with the cast in logo. Lastly, you can see that the seals are not like the later style. I hope this helps.
Last edited by 968gene; 11-04-2013 at 10:09 PM.
#12
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Disassemble the caliper, use compr air in the lines to pop the piston out if it's sticky. Once apart, take some 1500 grit wet sandpaper and some brake cleaner and clean up the bore in the caliper. You'll likely find most of the corrosion at the bottom/inside of the bore. Keep cleaning until it's really smooth.
If you have access to a lathe, reverse chuck(from inside) the piston in the lathe and use the 1500 and brake fluid to clean the piston. If you have some 2000 use that next. If no lathe avail, see if you have a sanding drum, or a grinder drum that will chuck in a drill. Use some elec tape to build up the drum so that the piston will fit snuggly on/over the drum with tape. Spin the drill and clean the piston with 1500 and brake fluid.
Get new seals and assemble with liberal brake fluid. It'll work fine again.
#13
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I already rebuilt the caliper with new pistons, seals, and fluid. When I rebuilt it, both the old pistons and the bores were shiny and smooth with no visible corrosion, pitting, or scoring. This is consistent with the maintenance history of the car (yearly fluid changes for its entire life).
#14
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I already rebuilt the caliper with new pistons, seals, and fluid. When I rebuilt it, both the old pistons and the bores were shiny and smooth with no visible corrosion, pitting, or scoring. This is consistent with the maintenance history of the car (yearly fluid changes for its entire life).
#15
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I already rebuilt the caliper with new pistons, seals, and fluid. When I rebuilt it, both the old pistons and the bores were shiny and smooth with no visible corrosion, pitting, or scoring. This is consistent with the maintenance history of the car (yearly fluid changes for its entire life).