RajDatta

Parts: 968 clutch kit (includes clutch disk, pressure plate and throw-out bearing), Fork Needle, Needle bearings, Guide Sleeve

Tools:Metric socket set, 3/8 rachet, metric wrench set, Triple square socket set, flywheel lock, copper based lubricant

Its easiest to perform this task by 1st removing the catalytic section of the exhaust.
Tips: Remove the exhaust with the O2 sensor still connected. You can disconnect the O2 sensor from behind the intake manifold. Break off the tiewrap that ties it to the oil filler neck.
Chance are the exhaust nuts/bolts that tie catalytic section to catback are corroded. In this case, you might be best off dropping the entire exhaust as 1 piece. Its much easier to break/cut nuts and bolts when the exhaust is off the car.

Disconnect Battery

Remove Catalytic convertor section of the exhaust by removing 6xM8 nuts/bolts holding the catalytic convertor section to the exhaust manifold, 2xM8 nuts/bolts that attach exhaust to hanger, 4xM8 nuts/bolts that attach to cat back section.
Make sure the O2 wire is disconnected and free. Remove exhaust

Remove starter by removing 2xM10 bolts holding starter to bell housing. Install flywheel lock by inserting it in place of existing starter and reusing M10 bolts

Disconnect clutch slave cylinder by removing 2xM8 bolts, do not disconnect the fluid line, keep it connected or else you will need to bleed the fluid.

Remove 9xM8 bolts/washers from the exhaust side of the bell housing. Remove additional M10 bolts holding clutch cover to bell housing. Once all bolts are removed, the cover should be free of bell housing.

Remove M6 bolt that locks the needle in place by 1st loosening the nut, Install cheesehead M8 bolt on to the needle and pull the needle out.

Remove rubber plug on torque tube, undo 1xM8 cheesehead bolt for clamping sleeve and push it back towards transmission. This should free up your torque tube to clutch setup.

Remove 2xM6 bolts from guide tube. This will free up the sleeve for the clutch.

Remove 9xM6 triple square bolts around the pressure plate. You will need to turn the crank to get to all of them. Use 24mm deep socket to turn crank clockwise. Remove clutch fork out of the housing and then remove pressure plate and disk as 1 unit.

Inspect flywheel for blueing or grooves. Also check to see there is no oil leak from the main crank seal. If the main seal is leaking, you will need to remove the flywheel using 9xM10 triple square bolts.

Inspect needle for grooves and swap if necessary
Remove needle bearings from clutch fork by using a hydraulic press or equivalent.

Installation is reverse of removal.

Make sure all moving parts like guide sleeve, needle, needle bearings, torque tube clamping sleeve and slave cylinder pin are lubed using quality copper lube.

Install guide tube into release bearing.

Insert clutch fork inside the bell housing but leave it out of the way for now.

Install complete clutch assembly to flywheel by hand, do not tighten it yet

Pull the tube clamping sleeve forward into the clutch disk

Tighten clamping tube 1xM8 cheesehead to the tube at 59 ftlb

Tighten all 9xM8 triple square bolts on the pressure plate to the flywheel evenly at 17 ftlb. Turn the crank to gain access to all bolts.

Tighten 2xM6 bolts to guide tube at 7 ftlb

Install release fork by aligning the needle through the fork.

Tighten lock nut for needle fork at 7ftlb

Install side section of bell housing

Install clutch slave cylinder

Install starter

Install exhaust. Make sure you fish the O2 cable back up the firewall and connect it back to its receptacle.

It is work in progress and hopefully i will add pics as we go. Feel free to add anything if you have valuable experience that might help others.
Thanks.

Miles968

Add quality "torque wrench" to your tool list
I know it's implied but.....
Also add hydraulic press or equivalent

PorscheDude1

Nice write up.

Should be easy to find in a few months.

AaronR968

Great thanks!! I kept thinking you had to remove trans, and drop the tube in order to do clutch. Now I know why book time on this is like 4 hours or something silly like that! I could see someone being able to do this between sessions if they REALLY hustled. Thanks again!

Lemming

Thanks for the writeup.

At the start of this weekend I thought for sure I would be doing this job soon since I decided to take the 968 daily driver out for a day of DE at Barber (instead of the track car). With the car still sporting the original clutch and 113,000 miles on the clock, I was a bit worried. Luckily I didn't miss any shifts and my heel-toe was working well so the clutch stayed together.

PorscheDude1

The clamping sleeve takes an M8 Allen head.

MM951

Wow, much simpler than the 951 clutch job...another thing to add to the list of reasons I want a 968.

John Etnier

Thanks for this, Raj!

RajDatta

Thanks. Since its a unique bolt that would not fit anywhere else, I didn't specify it but will be happy to add it.
Raj

Miles968

Just to add some spice to the thread......Who's using which clutch/flywheel/pressure plate? OEM,Spect or others?

blackboy

Miles, you mentioned a hydraulic press . Is there a specific type that would be best. Also, the fork needle and needle bearings are separate items are they not? Just ordered a kit from Sunset and hope to do this Labor Day weekend. Thanks to all of you for all the info.

Miles968

I have never done the procedure myself. I just read and pulled it out of Raj's great write up "Remove needle bearings from clutch fork by using a hydraulic press or equivalent."
Hopefully someone will know?
Best of luck and keep us posted with pictures too!

RolexNJ

Raj, good technical info for the community. I copied the post also into the DIY section.

RajDatta

Yes, they are seperate items. Most times the bearings will create grooves into the needle which then gives the clutch inconsistent release point. Some shops only change the needle and leave the bearings alone. Its up to you, they are not expensive.
I have removed them with a punch but I wanted to play it safe for others. It's easy to bend the fork if you try to punch the bearings out. You have to make sure when you punch them out, none of the load is moved to the other arm of the fork.
It will all make sense when you try it.
Raj

blackboy

Raj in your list of parts needed you put down Fork Needle, should this be replaced also or just the needle bearings? Thanks.