Powerhaus visit next week
07-31-2004, 06:28 PM
#31
Three Wheelin'
Ok, ok Ill back down 
So you think there is no decrease at all due to turbocharging? I can definately see joining that campaign, but had always thought that increasing the output would shorten the life of the engine. It must be my ricer background
Removing your bumpers must shorten your engines and your own life!
So you think there is no decrease at all due to turbocharging? I can definately see joining that campaign, but had always thought that increasing the output would shorten the life of the engine. It must be my ricer background
Removing your bumpers must shorten your engines and your own life!
07-31-2004, 09:19 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
I think what Bruce means is what's often colloquially stated as "there's no free lunch." OTOH, that's precisely what makes these "turbo conversions" so costly, and like Raj says, all the components that are added ensure that the reliability is comparable to what the factory puts out in turbo form.
It costs money to emulate the R&D that the factory put into the stock configuration, and cutting corners won't get you the desired results, but I guess bucking up for the right mechanicals will!
It costs money to emulate the R&D that the factory put into the stock configuration, and cutting corners won't get you the desired results, but I guess bucking up for the right mechanicals will!
07-31-2004, 10:33 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Bruce, by lowering static compression, you are putting back some of the life that you would normally lose by adding forced induction. The biggest enemy for any boosted car is heat. If you make sure you have all the proper components in place, there is no reason why your car would not last as long as any NA. Where a lot of people that cut corners is final tuning. This can cost some serious money but that is the only way to do it right. Honestly, I feel a low boost car with 11:1 compression is more prone to failure than a relatively high boosted car with lower compression.
There are a lot of people out there running 1.3-1.5 bar boost. Those are the engines that will not last too long. I kept my boost levels between .9 - 1 bar as that is the maximum one should run on pump gas. 400hp and 385ft/lbs of torque works fine for me. If you ever get to drive Jay's car when its done, it will all become clear.
Take care.
Raj
There are a lot of people out there running 1.3-1.5 bar boost. Those are the engines that will not last too long. I kept my boost levels between .9 - 1 bar as that is the maximum one should run on pump gas. 400hp and 385ft/lbs of torque works fine for me. If you ever get to drive Jay's car when its done, it will all become clear
.Take care.
Raj
08-01-2004, 10:51 AM
#34
Three Wheelin'
I agree with Raj,
Keep that engine cool and lubed, and it should last a lifetime. It's just that it takes the right parts to do it correctly.
I may have gone overboard by kife-edging the crank, adding some additional baffling for the oil tank, using different pistons and rods, stand-alone engine management, and a bigger radiator, but it's all in the name of safety, longevity...and fun! You certainly don't have to go that far.
But, it is a matter of "you get what you pay for" some times.
Jason
Keep that engine cool and lubed, and it should last a lifetime. It's just that it takes the right parts to do it correctly.
I may have gone overboard by kife-edging the crank, adding some additional baffling for the oil tank, using different pistons and rods, stand-alone engine management, and a bigger radiator, but it's all in the name of safety, longevity...and fun! You certainly don't have to go that far.
But, it is a matter of "you get what you pay for" some times.
Jason
08-01-2004, 08:30 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
Jason, you did not waste your money. Remember your car will see atleast 60-70% WOT on the track. It is critical to have everything work right.
I would not do knifeedging for street as the advantages don't really outweigh the disadvantages. It really helps on the track having all the reciprocating mass but for the street car it helps it stay smooth on idle and when taking off. Also foaming of oil is not a big concern on the streets. My turbo RS engine had a baffle but I took it out. I could have either the baffle of low oil sensor. I chose the low oil sensor.
I can't wait to see your car Jason. I might be heading for a bigger radiator myself.
Raj
I would not do knifeedging for street as the advantages don't really outweigh the disadvantages. It really helps on the track having all the reciprocating mass but for the street car it helps it stay smooth on idle and when taking off. Also foaming of oil is not a big concern on the streets. My turbo RS engine had a baffle but I took it out. I could have either the baffle of low oil sensor. I chose the low oil sensor.
I can't wait to see your car Jason. I might be heading for a bigger radiator myself.
Raj
08-02-2004, 01:48 PM
#38
Three Wheelin'
I'm not convinced we really need it, Raj.
I'd like to see what temps are happening with the oil first.
Remember the radiator really does a fine job, to begin with...And with only 7-8 quarts of oil, it's not like one of those 911 (air cooled) engines.
But, as you say, icing on the cake.
Still, I'd like to know what the oil temps are...I guess something would have to be tapped and a sensor installed. I've heard that one doesn't want the oil to be too cold; although I can't really believe that would be a problem with a turbo-charged car.
Jason
I'd like to see what temps are happening with the oil first.
Remember the radiator really does a fine job, to begin with...And with only 7-8 quarts of oil, it's not like one of those 911 (air cooled) engines.
But, as you say, icing on the cake.
Still, I'd like to know what the oil temps are...I guess something would have to be tapped and a sensor installed. I've heard that one doesn't want the oil to be too cold; although I can't really believe that would be a problem with a turbo-charged car.
Jason
08-02-2004, 01:53 PM
#39
Rennlist Member
I don't think with our humid temps in the NE, we could run our cars sool enough in the summer months. You really missed out on a great event. It was lot of fun. I started picking cars left and right . You name it and I blew by them and that even included George's stealth turbo conversion. He was a sitting duck both times .
Next time I am running in the fastest group
.
Raj
.Next time I am running in the fastest group
.Raj
08-03-2004, 03:45 AM
#42
Racer
Originally Posted by nick_968
Jason, what is the rough cost of these radiators from Heritage?
And, below is a photo of the radiator. The one on the bottom is the original from my 968, and on the top is the Heritage replacement. Big difference!
08-03-2004, 10:37 AM
#43
Rennlist Member
Grant, my concern is how do you hold it in place. The factory units have a plastic lip that is held by some bushings and screws and that is what keeps the radiator in place. I don't see any brackets on top of the radiator to keep it in place. I guess I should call them. Should I speak to anyone in particular?
Thanks in advance.
Raj
Thanks in advance.
Raj
08-03-2004, 11:41 AM
#44
Racer
Originally Posted by 968TurboS
Grant, my concern is how do you hold it in place. The factory units have a plastic lip that is held by some bushings and screws and that is what keeps the radiator in place. I don't see any brackets on top of the radiator to keep it in place. I guess I should call them. Should I speak to anyone in particular?
Thanks in advance.
Raj
Thanks in advance.
Raj
Regarding the radiator, contact
Jason Lee
Heritage Motorcar Research Inc.
2075 Lake Ave SE
Largo, FL 33771
(727) 584-0277 Office/Fax
Heritage Motorcar Research Inc.
BTW, you will be shipping my turbo air splitter to Jason Lee at Heritage.
