biosurfer1

Decided to take the 968 out for a drive today to meet the family at Starbucks. Everything going fine on the drive until I pull into the parking lot, then the clutch pedal goes to the floor and won't come back up. I was able to get it out of gear and coast into a parking spot.

I pulled the pedal back up and thought maybe the firewall had gone (already has once and was fixed properly) but then I saw a puddle of fluid directly under the car, and I can see what looks like fluid splashed around the engine bay, more towards the driver side firewall.

After some quick searching, it seems likely I blew the clutch hydraulic line?? I have just begun the searching, but does anyone have a DIY guide for replacing it? Looks to be about $100ish, so not too bad if that ends up being the problem. Anymore "while you're in there" things to consider?

biosurfer1

Also, driving a manual without a clutch is a skill I never thought I would need but learned anyways a while ago...and I was able to put that skill to good use by getting all the way without to much trouble. I live on top of a hill and getting up my driveway was a bit of an ordeal but I made it

biosurfer1

anyone?

chudson

I believe I qualify as anyone

Likely the hose to the slave cylinder but it could also be the slave itself. You may want to replace both and don't be surprised if the master fails soon after. If you want to keep a 968 for a long time, it's best to replace everything from the supply ("blue") hose to the slave.

This is the problem with our aging cars. At 25 years of age, things like this almost become maintenance items because they will fail at some point. Very few 968s have had the brake fluid flushed every 2 years since new and some of the owners / shops who have flushed the brakes overlooked the clutch fluid.

Replacement is not too much of a hassle for a good DIYer, but bleeding can be. Pressure bleeding or "reverse" bleeding is about the only way to purge the air from the system. Even my vacuum bleeder has difficulty restoring the pedal on a 968. I hope this helps.

Cliff

biosurfer1

Thanks Cliff.

I'll start digging into it this weekend, but in the meantime, do you know if any helpful "how to's"? I have been looking on Clark's Garage and youtube and 99% reference the 944 which I know is close, but I haven't been able to find a complete diagram of system to know what I'm looking at/for.

biosurfer1

Ok, found a diagram. If I'm correct, I think #40 in this picture is the problem hose (will confirm):


I'm trying to get my bearings from this diagram. If I'm reading this correctly, the pedal, #28, and #29 are all inside the car, gasket #33 is in the engine bay along with the clutch master cylinder (#30, right?) The hose that probably burst (#40) goes into the hard line (#41) and then where?

While looking around, the clutch master cylinder seems to have a rebuild kit available, however I've found the whole part is around $60 so I figure just replace that. The slave cylinder is a different animal, that seems way higher, more in the $266 range at best. Is there a rebuild kit for it? Also, is FTE an OEM supplier? I have seen a couple slave cylinders made by FTE but they are suspiciously cheap.

Thanks.

chudson

You are correct on your assessment of the component locations and # 41 screws directly into the slave. $60 is way cheap for the master if it comes in the factory P box. My software is generic but shows $200 + each (retail) for the master and the slave. P didn't make these parts originally and FTE is an original parts supplier for P, but I don't know if they supplied them the clutch hydraulics.

I stay away from kits since brake fluid is hygroscopic and finding rust or corrosion inside the bore of the cylinder is not uncommon. Where did you find the master for $60?

Cliff

thomasmryan

it is best to replace the master, master to firewall gasket, slave, flex line and the feed from the reservoir at the same time.

notes.
disconnect the battery.
removing the wiring in the cab isn't really necessary as the clevis pin clip can be removed by feel.
attach the blue feed line to the master prior to installation. Oetiker pinch clamps are the best thing to use.
be sure the flex line is positioned so it doesn't touch the booster.
blocking the clutch fork during the bleeding process helps purge the air quicker.

FTE is the original manufacturer. the cylinders are about 100 each as well as the flex line. budget a power bleeder or search you tube for the oil squirt can from the slave method.

biosurfer1

Thanks guys. I will be replacing everything at the same time. Might as well since something else is bound to fail and the parts aren't obscenely priced.

I was asking about FTE, because there are lots of seller on ebay that have the master, i.e.:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-944...UAAOSwDDxa8tHC

And here is an example of the slave, though the slave prices seem to vary wildly:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-924...4AAOSwnDZT~hBs

thomasmryan

biosurfer1

I just saw that same kit Thomas and was looking into it, thanks.

Who is Ian?

biosurfer1

Wow, for those of you who haven't had the slave cylinder changed out, it is quickly becoming unobtainium.

I was able to find it new for $200 after a ton of searching, but most places are $300-350 so I'm assuming they are still going up in price. The 944 slave cylinder does not work like some of the other parts in the system.

biosurfer1

Does anyone know what the difference is between 944 116 237 03 (968 specific part number) and 944 116 237 00 (944/924/944S2), besides about $250? Just the bleeder position?

03


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