Arjan B.

In my service on the car, I had some difficulties with replacing the brake pads.... I noticed they stuck a little in the caliper, and some new pads stuck with putting them in. I removed the black paint from the side of the pads, and did some copper grease on it, then it was a little easier. The calipers where well cleaned, no rust on the guide rail which hold the pads. Why did they stuck, is this normal????? I could not find a reason for that.

joey bagadonuts

Arjan, How much is a little? I change pads often for track events and noticed that the fit is very good with little spare room. Pads will drop in easily, however, if pistons are fully compressed and you insert them at the correct angle. If the angle is off slightly, you will need to adjust the pad until it slides in.

By the way, I am enjoying your 100K mile service thread very much. Thank you for your contributions.

ThomasC2

There is probably rust under the metalguides which makes the guides raise a bit. It's a common fault. Easy fix is to grind the pads to make them fit. The real fix is to change the guides an fix the rust, but that's a lot of work. You can read about the operation in a copy of "911 & Prosche world" earlier this year. Gor for the easey fix....

Arjan B.

Yes, I looked at that item.

I have a old caliper which I have for decoration, I show you.....

If you want to remove te screws from the guide plates, they wil spin inside. "no way jose"!

I tried on two calipers, no srew came loose, probably the corrosion between aluminium and steel.

I think that "modify" the pads is the best option here.

If you should drill their heads of, you still have to repair the winding from the screws......

Arjan B.

I tried this a while back when I replaced the calipers [2 right side] and it did'nt work then with the screws.

Arjan B.

Thomas, can you scan me that article from the Porsche 911 magazine and show it to us??

Eric Kessel

Arjan,
The screws you are having problems with are coated with some type of lock tight, (locktite?), and you have to heat the screws up a good bit, before they will loosen up.
-Eric
90 C2

ThomasC2

Arjan, I can maybe do that....but the procedure is very much as Eric says. Heat up the screws to get rid of the Loctite. Then buy a new kit with rails and screws from your OPC. I can look tonight if I can find the part numbers.

Arjan B.

Heating up the screws is dangerous for your piston 'condoms' or what ever you call those in English. So I think that's will be the right way, but I don't trust that. I just replaced calipers for that......

I think is't time for the "Big Reds"............

Eric Kessel

The article in 911 world magazine showed the mechanic putting a set of brake pad "backs" (just the metal) in the calipers to protect the piston seals (condoms.....).
-Eric

Arjan B.

Is there somebody who wants to scan the article and send me by e-mail, or load it up in this thread???

ThomasC2

I don't have a scanner but it's not that much to see. The repair kit consists of a plate/rail and two screws. You need two kits per caliper and some Loctite (sorry there is no part number in the article but they cost £26 + VAT per caliper).

1 Clean of the dirt and then use a gas-powered blow torch to heat up the screws. Use a steel plate to protect the rubber seals. Heat up until the screw is red and then try to undo it.

2 Pull away the plate and use a file to get a clean and smooth area. Put on some copper grease and fit the new plate. Use loctite on the screw.

3 Put the caliper back on to the car and fit the new pads. Use som copper grease here also.

Done! The arrticle also says that if the screw won't come loose. Don't try to drill out the screw, it's very easy to damage the caliper. Buy a new caliper instead or a reconditioned one.

That's the article from the March issue.

Good luck!