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what did you use to remove the glue from the sound pad?
Not sure if this got answered but I just took this on myself. Pro Strength Goof Off can be found at any Lowes/Home Depot by the pint or by the gallon. I put it in a small spray bottle and applied it very generously. I went through 2 pints.
Also found at the hardware store, some various brushes. I actually found a softer bristles worked better than the stiffer ones to roll the glue off the bay wall. Stiffer ones for getting left over pad debris off.
Best pro tip I can offer is that soaking them with remover and leaving it to dry doesn't help. The remover only works when its wet and soaking onto the glue.
Mystery? I noted in PET and few others PS pump reseal that there are two washers on pressure line going in to pump. I didn't recall fitting those, have no leaking. Will order replacement washers and install. Pulled this photo from back in late 2014 of my engine bay and don't think I see washers in photo? Perhaps when DMF was replaced, techs forgot to add washers??? If any C4 Owners are missing washers, let me know.
Can I get these washers from other than Porsche? What are they made of?
They are aluminum or bronze seal washers. They are #8 in the PET diagram, P/N 900-123-042-20. They are 14mm ID 18mm OD. You can order them from any of the normal suppliers and don't need to buy them from the stealership.
I definitely have them on my C4. I bought the Porsche Copper ones from PP for $2.25 each. I probably could have reused the old ones as I did that last time but I'm trying for a leak free engine this time.
I am finally legal to drive on the street again and had chronicled my painful steps to get to that point and then my iPad or RL session timed out ... I typed for half hour and lost it all... Anyways, I took for smog test last week with only 6 miles on car after 2+ year nap... It passed! However, my OCD says, those numbers are not optimal and means I now want to ensure A/F and ignition timing are running efficiently and safely as possible...
I would appreate any help offered in interpreting smog numbers, but also the approach some of you use to cross check ignition timing vs a/f mix? How do you verify a/f is healthy without dyno session? My car will not get near a dyno after planetary issue, don't like the idea of car floating around on four wheel dyno, gotta be another way...
Noted my concerns on pic?
What are others running at?
What would well tuned engine read?
I have seen some show 0.0 Oxygen(O2), what does that mean?
Thought I would humor folks with my task list over last few weeks just to be able to drive my car on a public road… Being my first engine/transmission out, of course, a healthy dose of “Turn the Key” anxiety was to be expected. For those who have followed my drive train issue, I lived in DENIAL for far too long that MY car suffered a Planetary Carrier failure… With all self imposed down time, I created a few logistic issues, such as, my registration tags were out of date. So, here is sequence of events thus far just to get car back on a public road;
Step 1. All Engine Oil, PS fluid, Gear Oil. Run Motronic diagnostics, no faults, actuate all injectors, flaps, etc… Turn key to ON, PDA/Brake hydraulic pump runs 40 seconds. Turn key and Start Engine. Let idle few minutes, oil pressure 3 bars, all GOOD! Then paranoia begins…. What is that burning/scorching smell? Why is there water dripping out my tail pipe? Done for the day.
Step 2. Visit AAA and get ONE day moving permit! I need to get car to alignment as new spring/struts went in last summer and all struts/springs EYE-BALLED for height and camber/toe, Egads, I’ve created the FLINTSTONE mobile. Done for the day.
Step 3. Drive car to alignment shop for corner balance, ride height, and wheel alignment. Drive car home, Round trip 6 miles. Burning smell still happening? Done for the day.
Step 4. I now use that old ONE day permit (don’t tell anybody) to smog test the car after a 2.5 year nap in my garage. This was a risky move and probably should have driven 50-100 miles before smog testing. The good news, it passed! The test TECH asked, how many axles does this car have and used a mirror to look under front of car? I asked, what are you looking for?, no reply, no soup for me!…. Anybody know what he was looking for? I said, watch the RPM’s, you don’t stomp the pedal like it’s a ’65 mustang! I had anxiety simply watching this guy smog test my car. Done for the day.
Step 5. I jumped on the Freeway for 15 mile round trip from home. Very happy with milestones thus far, transmission feels great (new planetary carrier), new clutch feels good (first clutch job), engine pulls good, oil pressure at 5 bars under load as expected. Pull in garage, leave at idle, observe engine running. Exhaust is clear, no water dripping, still a bit of that burning smell? Done for the day.
For the benefit of peeps like me, it is amazing the noises, smells, observations you will experience after an engine out/in project and the paranoia that follows…
Here are a few things that caused me brief anxiety;
Burning/Scorching smell not from exhaust – I used all types of penetrating oils on exhaust nuts/bolts, WD40, solvents to clean parts of engine before work began. I even remember hitting exhaust ports of heads with a bit of WD40 to wipe away carbon … I checked wiring of any kind is not laying against something HOT. Suspect the SMELL is all those oils getting burned off manifolds and engine case/cylinders/heads.
Water Dripping from tail pipe – Car has been run at temp very few times in 2.5 years… Once engine and CAT is up to temp, all good… Did you know there is a lot of water in Oxygen and the combustion process, Yuppers!
Engine bay and how hot it gets – In two decades, I have never paid attention to heat in engine bay… Well, everything is bloody HOT!!! So, I am saying to self, is this and that supposed to be so HOT? Answer is, YUP! I will post some temps with my new temp gun later and many will be amazed… Oil filter, valve covers, you DO NOT want to touch right after turning off key, ask me how I know… Those items, well over a 120F degrees …. You would think that with alternator fan pulling air through it, fan shroud would not be HOT, wrong! It sits on the engine case and that heat must radiate to fan shroud, etc… Cylinders, 200F! Internal combustion is a violent business, be warned!
Have not yet done ADAPTION. My new topic for study, ensuring ignition timing and a/f mixture is sound and healthy. Not sure what approach is available for the DIY peeps.. No dyno for me, perhaps a shop that has exhaust sniffer? Any ideas, welcome …
Anyone know what stock corner weights were for C4's stock springs and struts? This is my first experience with the concept after changing to lowering springs and curious on how these new numbers would have compared and where did the weights change? Thoughts on this weight distribution?
Really curious, in order for the recent weights to be achieved w/o me in drivers seat 185lbs, 1/2 tank of gas, the REAR spring seats where adjusted as shown??? The passenger side with more weight has more threads showning, seems opposite of what I would expect??
Is the large variance in spring sear height settings normal?
I've never corner weighted my car but this is a sheet from another NZ C4 owner.
1/2 tank of gasoline = ~ 23kg and 80kg driver = 103kg = 227 lbs. Therefore his total car weight with same spec as yours was 3,171 lbs NB: This is a RHD car.
BTW: I ran 2,985 lbs when at the track in mine with 1/2 tank and no driver. One 8kg seat, no spare and fuchs. Plus LWF, glass ducktail etc.
Thanks John. Very nice chart. I like how first horizontal line shows what they started with and each line going down is their process and last line is final settings. Where are my perch measure points exactly? Being naive, I asked how much for alignment, $150.00. I arrive and give simple requirements of street, best tire wear, more sporty than stock kind of thing.. I mentioned that I replaced springs and struts all around and set spring seats in rear equal at near top of thread... Then I asked, you set ride height and rake before setting caster, toe, camber, right? Well that will be $350.00. So, I am now corner balanced ... Hence, my question, if my rear spring seats are adjusted so different, does that infer, if I left my initial settings of equal threads each side and only aligned wheels, would my car be out of balance yet aligned? Did I get hoodwinked? Or, when spring & struts change, corner balance is mandatory?
I just went through this with my Bilstein B6 and H&Rs. Both rears after corner balance were down to the bottom. Seems like you are way higher on one side. I know that there are asymmetries of these cars from one side to the next but seems a bit much considering the amount of thread left on the passenger side. Needless to say, I'm going to go lower with coilovers next.
When I installed springs over struts I did not match spring bottom orientation to strut seat on both sides, just made sure flat against bottom and fit to top hat was proper? I would think to shift the weight slightly more to passenger side as was done, driver side collar should be higher and it's opposite? Your setup looks great, do you have to stay away from those cement parking curb wheel stops to avoid scraping under tray?
05-29-2017, 06:25 PM
. Those are the washers I'm replacing. No idea why the material difference. I will check my other car when I get home next weekend.
... I typed for half hour and lost it all... Anyways, I took for smog test last week with only 6 miles on car after 2+ year nap... It passed! However, my OCD says, those numbers are not optimal and means I now want to ensure A/F and ignition timing are running efficiently and safely as possible...
