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Team Dynamics also has nice and light wheels. Not sure if they exist in your fitment though
We used them for racing many years go and were really happy with them http://www.rimstock.com/wheel-ranges/pro-race-range
Could we discuss some of the lightweight options only for wheels?
I am currently using the new type Fuchs, which are pretty light but looking into the TE37's and OZ's. Not aware of many other options but would love to hear.
The Fuchs look good but have a sizing issue. They use large spacers in my C2 (with widened rear arches).
Is anybody successful running bigger than 285's on a narrow body? Or is that completely out of the question?
What are the best ET sizes for a 964, 8.5/9 front and 10.5/11 rear?
I'm running 235/275 NT01 Nitto tires and it is TIGHT. Some depends on tire profile. Without fender mods I don't see HOW you can get over 10" and 275 in the back. My tires are from the oil tube to the fenders in the rear and the fronts will just kiss the outer fender on track and minimal clearance in front.
Wheels are e88, I weighted them but forgot. LIGHT. But not as light as a 1 piece forged wheel.
That may be true but OP was looking for most lightweight possible which these would definitely fit the bill. If weight was the #1 priority I'd say the HRE Classic 300 would be a better bet visually.
I'd have to agree with the HRE Classic 300's but I'm a bit biased
I'm running 235/275 NT01 Nitto tires and it is TIGHT. Some depends on tire profile. Without fender mods I don't see HOW you can get over 10" and 275 in the back. My tires are from the oil tube to the fenders in the rear and the fronts will just kiss the outer fender on track and minimal clearance in front.
Wheels are e88, I weighted them but forgot. LIGHT. But not as light as a 1 piece forged wheel.
Don't forget when you're going for the lowest unsprung weight also consider tire weight. I've seen tires vary by 2-3 lbs. in the same sizes between manufacturers.
Don't forget when you're going for the lowest unsprung weight also consider tire weight. I've seen tires vary by 2-3 lbs. in the same sizes between manufacturers.
Thanks for your info! I'm running 225/285 now, but a friend of mine managed to squeeze 295 in with more camber. Not sure if thats the best way to go.
i doubt it's the best way. You'd need to drive the car in anger on a track and see what sort of tire temps you're getting. More than 2.5 or so unless you're on slicks is probably too much rear camber and you're losing grip..
I'm running 235/275 NT01 Nitto tires and it is TIGHT. Some depends on tire profile. Without fender mods I don't see HOW you can get over 10" and 275 in the back. My tires are from the oil tube to the fenders in the rear and the fronts will just kiss the outer fender on track and minimal clearance in front.
Wheels are e88, I weighted them but forgot. LIGHT. But not as light as a 1 piece forged wheel.
Thanks for your info! I'm running 225/285 now, but a friend of mine managed to squeeze 295 in with more camber. Not sure if thats the best way to go.
It depends on the tire manufacturer and individual car. The shape and design of the tire/sidewall etc plus how the flairs sit on your car. They do vary from car to car. I wouldn't do the excessive negative camber as said over 2.5 and it is working against you. I ran 295 and 285's on my turbo on 10's and I could never tell the difference except for looks.
03-28-2017, 10:22 AM
