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Old 03-11-2017, 06:59 PM
  #31  
Sire
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Originally Posted by Juha G
Slip-in = the cylinders "slip" into the engine case. Cylinder bottom sealing is done between the flanges. (this is as original street engines).

Bore-in = Engine case needs to be machined (borred) to fit the cylinders. Sealing by O-rings which requires further machining of the case for the O-ring grooves. Sealing between the flanges is not possible because there is just not enough surface area on the flange for proper seal after machining.

The original case has cylinder openings for the 3.6 cylinders. The 3.8 cylinders are bigger in diameter so you can either have same outer diameter (=slip in) with thinner cylinder walls or original thicker cylinder walls which require enlargening the case openings (=bore in).

All the racing engines had the thicker cylinder walls. I think any of the top end engine builders will advice to go with the thicker cylinder walls. It will cost more because of the machining work needed but it is the right way to do it.
Both slip in and bore in cylinders are available for the engines.

I went with the Mahle "bore in" / Motorsport cylinders in my "RSR" build. Here are some photos: https://m3supercar.1g.fi/kuvat/993RSR/Winter16/
thx for the education, bore in is the way to it correct.
Old 03-11-2017, 08:06 PM
  #32  
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It debatable ... talked to George at Midwest Eurosport and he recommends sleeved. I can have him weigh in.

Newly powered coated engine bits.

Pic of old 3.6 jug and piston- if you look closely you can see that there is no groove for gasket and you can see oil residue where is was leaking out on the face of the jug. As I understand it, only a small percentage of "ringless" actually leaked at this junction. Mine was one of the small percentage of engines that leaked at the base cylinder area.

Next pic: New Mahle 3.8 jug ... you can see the groove.
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Old 03-12-2017, 02:10 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by eddieb4

Pic of old 3.6 jug and piston- if you look closely you can see that there is no groove for gasket and you can see oil residue where is was leaking out on the face of the jug. As I understand it, only a small percentage of "ringless" actually leaked at this junction. Mine was one of the small percentage of engines that leaked at the base cylinder area.

Next pic: New Mahle 3.8 jug ... you can see the groove.
Interestingly though, the gasket was a crutch to stop the wetness, not the reason for it. The earlier 3.2 engines, and turbos, didn't have head gaskets, and weren't known to leak. I would hesitate to even call it a leak, because there is no oil there to leak, the combustion chamber side of the piston is never really wet with oil. Henry (from Supertec) says the design of the head causes it to warp somewhat from the clamping force of the head being torqued. So the wetness isn't really an oil leak, it is combustion byproducts, oily water and probably fuel from cold starts when the aluminum hasn't reached operating temp. Unless an engine has a serious problem, it is unlikely an engine will ever have enough leak there to ever cause more than wetness, not a drip.
Old 03-12-2017, 03:13 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by onevoice
Interestingly though, the gasket was a crutch to stop the wetness, not the reason for it. The earlier 3.2 engines, and turbos, didn't have head gaskets, and weren't known to leak. I would hesitate to even call it a leak, because there is no oil there to leak, the combustion chamber side of the piston is never really wet with oil. Henry (from Supertec) says the design of the head causes it to warp somewhat from the clamping force of the head being torqued. So the wetness isn't really an oil leak, it is combustion byproducts, oily water and probably fuel from cold starts when the aluminum hasn't reached operating temp. Unless an engine has a serious problem, it is unlikely an engine will ever have enough leak there to ever cause more than wetness, not a drip.
I need to read more about this, but I recall reading a view that adding a gasket to early 964 engines was no longer an automatic choice. I think it was Perelet on Pelican
Old 03-12-2017, 04:24 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by onevoice
Interestingly though, the gasket was a crutch to stop the wetness, not the reason for it. The earlier 3.2 engines, and turbos, didn't have head gaskets, and weren't known to leak. I would hesitate to even call it a leak, because there is no oil there to leak, the combustion chamber side of the piston is never really wet with oil. Henry (from Supertec) says the design of the head causes it to warp somewhat from the clamping force of the head being torqued. So the wetness isn't really an oil leak, it is combustion byproducts, oily water and probably fuel from cold starts when the aluminum hasn't reached operating temp. Unless an engine has a serious problem, it is unlikely an engine will ever have enough leak there to ever cause more than wetness, not a drip.
Thanks for the education.
I made some uneducated assumptions and stand corrected ... I'm not going to quit my day job to become a mechanic that's for sure.
It's fun leaning though because what you say makes perfect sense!
Old 03-13-2017, 03:55 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by eddieb4
It debatable ... talked to George at Midwest Eurosport and he recommends sleeved. I can have him weigh in.

Newly powered coated engine bits.

Pic of old 3.6 jug and piston- if you look closely you can see that there is no groove for gasket and you can see oil residue where is was leaking out on the face of the jug. As I understand it, only a small percentage of "ringless" actually leaked at this junction. Mine was one of the small percentage of engines that leaked at the base cylinder area.

Next pic: New Mahle 3.8 jug ... you can see the groove.

????

Your photos show the top of the cylinder. There is no oil that can leak there. The base seal is on the bottom of the cylinder.

Also, I'm really curious to hear in what way a thinner walled slip in cylinder is better than one with original cylinder wall thickness (cost put aside)?
Old 03-13-2017, 08:56 AM
  #37  
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I've got it wrong ... I'll get down to the shop and be more thorough.
Old 03-13-2017, 03:42 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Juha G
????

Your photos show the top of the cylinder. There is no oil that can leak there. The base seal is on the bottom of the cylinder.

Also, I'm really curious to hear in what way a thinner walled slip in cylinder is better than one with original cylinder wall thickness (cost put aside)?
It's not better other than cost.
But as far as cost goes, where do you stop?, I would have presumed that the OP sat with his engine builder and agreed a specification fit for the type of driving that the engine will be exposed to.
Fitting the best of the best of everything can turn a 12K rebuild into a 25k rebuild which would be overkill on a road engine with occasional track use.
Wouldn't it be great though money aside!!
Old 03-13-2017, 09:01 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Juha G
????


Also, I'm really curious to hear in what way a thinner walled slip in cylinder is better than one with original cylinder wall thickness (cost put aside)?
Like a lot of things in Porsche-world, the real answer is probably "it depends". IIRC it is only a 2mm difference between the two, which is 1mm of wall thickness, or in numbers my brain calculates in, about 0.039". Enough to make a difference, maybe, but you are also weakening the case by the same amount. I have seen engine builders say they have seen large leakdown numbers using slip fit cylinders in as little as 10k miles, but that doesnt make a lot of sense to me. Nothing much is happening at bottom dead center in the cylinder, and leakdown numbers are done at top dead center. Why would the cylinder get out of shape at the top from a missing 0.039" at the bottom? Especially when the bottom is so lightly loaded?

Not saying it isnt the BEST way to do it, but does it really make a difference in the real world in a non-racecar?
Old 03-14-2017, 03:06 AM
  #40  
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Old 03-15-2017, 04:34 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by onevoice
Interestingly though, the gasket was a crutch to stop the wetness, not the reason for it. The earlier 3.2 engines, and turbos, didn't have head gaskets, and weren't known to leak. I would hesitate to even call it a leak, because there is no oil there to leak, the combustion chamber side of the piston is never really wet with oil. Henry (from Supertec) says the design of the head causes it to warp somewhat from the clamping force of the head being torqued. So the wetness isn't really an oil leak, it is combustion byproducts, oily water and probably fuel from cold starts when the aluminum hasn't reached operating temp. Unless an engine has a serious problem, it is unlikely an engine will ever have enough leak there to ever cause more than wetness, not a drip.

Good informative post.
I totally agree with this.. I have always asked where the oil comes from between the bottom of the head and the top of the cylinder...
My 964 motor had similar "leakage" to yours.. but I also had leaks at the base of the cylinders.. so did a full re build.
Old 03-15-2017, 11:41 AM
  #42  
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I am officially addicted to this thread. Subscribed and looking forward to seeing how the build turns out Ed!
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Old 03-15-2017, 02:35 PM
  #43  
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Hi Ed

I had a similar bit of work done by George at Eurosport Racing in 2010 (time flies!) on my '91 964.

3.8 Mahle p/c, ARP bolts, ported head, 993 RS valves, Ti retainers, custom cam ... trans rebuild w a few new synchros, LWFW, RS clutch, JRZ ... I'm sure I'm forgetting some things.

I put on the Fabspeed exhaust w/heat. Great sound, and a modest drone that went away with time. I don't get enough heat from those small sized heat exchangers to drive in the winter in Chicago.

I also sourced a 964 Euro RS ECU. I recall George did some extra dyno work and replacing the pressure regulator to maximize that benefit.

The car is at Autobahn in Joliet if you'd like to see it or give it a listen/drive when next you're down there.

Can't say enough good things about George and his team, as I'm sure you know. You're in good hands.

Dyno results attached ... YhpMV ... I'm sure you'll love it

Best,
Ez
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EG Data.pdf (1.22 MB, 240 views)

Last edited by ezinternet; 03-15-2017 at 02:40 PM. Reason: trying to make graph smaller
Old 03-15-2017, 07:20 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ezinternet
Hi Ed

I had a similar bit of work done by George at Eurosport Racing in 2010 (time flies!) on my '91 964.

3.8 Mahle p/c, ARP bolts, ported head, 993 RS valves, Ti retainers, custom cam ... trans rebuild w a few new synchros, LWFW, RS clutch, JRZ ... I'm sure I'm forgetting some things.

I put on the Fabspeed exhaust w/heat. Great sound, and a modest drone that went away with time. I don't get enough heat from those small sized heat exchangers to drive in the winter in Chicago.

I also sourced a 964 Euro RS ECU. I recall George did some extra dyno work and replacing the pressure regulator to maximize that benefit.

The car is at Autobahn in Joliet if you'd like to see it or give it a listen/drive when next you're down there.

Can't say enough good things about George and his team, as I'm sure you know. You're in good hands.

Dyno results attached ... YhpMV ... I'm sure you'll love it

Best,
Ez
Curious as to why you bought a 964RS DME?

Is that data flywheel or rear wheels?
Old 03-15-2017, 08:21 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Bill Verburg
Curious as to why you bought a 964RS DME?

Is that data flywheel or rear wheels?
Hi Bill -

- At the time I was collecting bits and pieces for this C4 project, and I had thought that the RS DME would be a shortcut to a faster tune. I realize the ECU are functionally identical except for the chip/maps. Digging into my notes I see the ECU may of had or come with an AmD chip. I was hoping to avoid the LWFW stalling issues others had reported. After the dyno work I had a customized map anyway.

- The data is flywheel. The car was over there, and the engine over here.

Last edited by ezinternet; 03-15-2017 at 09:15 PM. Reason: correction


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