F/51 LRS

So, the planning has started! I'd like to build my 964 into a middle weight street machine with a slight focus to track/DE.

I don't want to go too crazy with the weight stripping, but would like to shave off some weight. (I know, should have started with c2, but there you are)

Thoughts on the plan? It's not necessarily in order, but I thought I'd throw it out to the collective.

964 medium weight modification plan:
-reclining sport seats (beige) $1500-2000
-RS carpet (app biz beige) $500
-RS door cards (black) $500
-RS heater bypass $400
-Cat bypass $300
-F/R sways? $700
-Upgrade suspension bushings $700
-Rennspeed ducktail $1,500 (incl. paint)
-7-10mm front spacers $50
-remove spare tire/tool kit
-bolt in half cage (ideally with removable harness bar) $1,500
-lwfw $1,000
-Steve Wong chip $450

Rough cost: $9,600-ish

-3.8 when it's time for a rebuild?

911Jetta

Looks like you're going to build a great car! I have the same goal.

I see you mentioned a cat bypass, but didn't see an exhaust bypass mentioned also (either one is -20 lbs).
Does RS carpet mean no back seat uppers? That's another 15 lbs.
Frunk carpet? I took that ugly thing out the first day...

Check your motor mounts. New ones improve the handling and really make the car feel solid.

Here is my most recent mod, -30 lbs. ($220)

Lightweight battery thread

apanossi

Another item is upgrading to electric power steering and ditching the belt driven pump. I would not remove the spare tire. It has been mentioned that it is essential in a front impact situation. Lastly, I would skip the 3.8 conversion. It is costly and doesn't really give you the hp you think you might get.

F/51 LRS

All fair points, I'll have to take a look at the electric power steering. I have 993 sport cams in the car right now, and above 4.5k the car really comes alive. I'm trying to decide where the balance of power/drivability/reliability/etc... is.

I should have prefaced the thread with some back story. The car has some modifications already, one of which is a primary bypass, and I put new motor mounts in last week (shifts far smoother now). The lightweight battery is a great idea, as well. That's a bunch of weight hanging out up there by the front axles.

First thread here: First Air Cooled Porsche

I'll be removing everything behind the front seats, no kiddos to worry about so no need for the rear seats.

It didn't have anything up front, but I made an "RS style" frunk tray:

spartansix

Your plan is essentially my car - I think you'll be very happy with it.

koenig_roland

your plan is my car, some years ago :-)

Now it is even lighter, more focused and even more expensive...

C4 is good for mixed conditions... i`m happy with it (but i would convert to 2WD, when the G64 will blow up).

I`ve Hahn-RS bucket seats, no damping anymore under the carpet, Cup floorboards, RS carpet, remove aircon, header (-20kg), carbonfilter undertray from the front to the end, empty trunk, lightweight battery, no airbags anymore, rennline lower dash - but big (RS) brakes and a new tweaked engine...

drives great, handles great. Have RS suspension fitted (with cup dampers in the front)

During the winter, i change topmounts to the RS version, spearical wishbone and rear trailing arm mount, sperical springplate... I guess (and hope) it will handle even better next spring :-)

Have fun with your modifications!

F/51 LRS

I found a great deal on some Sparco Milano 2 seats on CL ($1,500 w/911 adapters).

I know a lot of people go with the Recaro PPs, but I need access to the rear of the car on a fairly regular basis, so fixed backs were out. Plus, the wife wasn't too keen on the idea of fixed backs, either.

Luckily, they came with the adapters, however there wasn't anything to mount the seatbelt to. Seeing as how I would rather not be ejected from the car if I got in an accident, I needed to do something about this.

And of course I noticed the seat belt receiver wasn't in the car AFTER I mounted both seats. I never said I was smart.

First thing to do was to figure out how I was going to mount the seats. So, off to Home Depot I went to get some 1/8" mild steel.

Materials needed:
1.5" x 1.5" angle steel
2x M10 x 1.25 x 20mm
2x M8 x 1.25 x 30mm
14x M8 x 1.25 x 20mm cap head bolts
14x M8 washers

Everything I used is rated at least grade 8.8, the cap head bolts are rated 12.9 so everything should be as strong as if not stronger than the factory.

First: Mark and drill holes for your M8 and M10 bolts. I made the brackets 2.5" long and drilled the holes right around the middle.


Next file down any burrs on the bracket from drilling:


Grab your angle grinder to cut the bracket to length

Don't forget, safety third! Or first, yeah...first.

After you cut the bracket, grind all the rough edges off.

Then take your file to make sure everything is smooth/bevel the edges slightly.

Take some carb cleaner, or brake cleaner, or whatever is handy and clean the heck out of the brackets.

Prime.

Paint.

Put gloves on so you don't get dirt all over your previously incorrectly installed seats.

Here's a picture of the seat adapter and seat belt bracket installed.

Close up of the seat belt bracket.

Both seats in the car, but only drivers side done. Time to do the same to the passenger side.


I know these aren't the most high speed things in the world, but they're solid, no one can see them, and all in cost me about $25 in materials.

Next up is convincing the wife that I need a heater bypass...

toothfixer

I changed to a steve wong chip after a year of ownership, wish i did this first.
What about a muffler bypass and ditching the windshield washer fluid reservoir?

F/51 LRS

I have a primary bypass right now. I'll be putting a cat bypass on in the future.

Im holding off on the Steve Wong chip until I do the lwfw. Seemed prudent to pair the mod with the chip. In all likelihood I'll do those along with the cat bypass and RS blower bypass at the same time. The inevitable "while I'm in there" syndrome.

koenig_roland

the heater bypass does not restrict the functionality of the heating system. My girlfriend is freezing quite fast and the bypass was never a problem. The year without heat (header in first generation) was more complicated :-)