H&R Deep coilovers
#16
I'm running 9x18 up front and 11x18 rears. That's with stock widebody trailing arms. That's as aggressive as you can get on a widebody. Not for the faint of heart, as it required pulling the rear fenders slightly. With a good alignment guy, you can get those babies to tuck just right without sticking out. FYI... With the H&R deep coilovers, and the height that you see here, I have experienced no bump steer in over 2 months of aggressive street driving. Granted, I do not track my car to really push the limits. Oh yeah, I also have no rubbing whatsoever. So, it can be done for those of you out there thinking about this.
#18
Rennlist Member
I'm running 9x18 up front and 11x18 rears. That's with stock widebody trailing arms. That's as aggressive as you can get on a widebody. Not for the faint of heart, as it required pulling the rear fenders slightly. With a good alignment guy, you can get those babies to tuck just right without sticking out. FYI... With the H&R deep coilovers, and the height that you see here, I have experienced no bump steer in over 2 months of aggressive street driving. Granted, I do not track my car to really push the limits. Oh yeah, I also have no rubbing whatsoever. So, it can be done for those of you out there thinking about this.
For a widebody? I am running factory RSR speedlines with a 9.5" ET 57 front and 11ET5 rears with narrow body trailing arms I can fit up to 12's in the rear with narrow body arms. I have never seen anyone successfully fit more than a 10.5 rear with the turbo trailing arms under normal settings without the tire rubbing the trailing arm. Even my 295's on factory 10's would rub the trailing arm a little. What did you need to do to make 11's fit on a wide-body? I tried yeas ago on my 94 turbo and no matter what I did even with H&R supercup deep coil overs and 650 pound springs if I ran so that the tire and wheel arch met it rubbed against the inner fender when driven aggressively.
#19
Rennlist Member
Since I am loosely basing my build off an 3.8 RSR (aesthetically), would these H&R deep coilovers be a good fit? I need to be somewhat lower (closer to the RSR height), but don't want to detract from performance or comfort. Not sure what other coilovers can go this low and still get good reviews.
Also, best place to buy?
Mr. Wolfe
Also, best place to buy?
Mr. Wolfe
Last edited by Greg Wolfe; 11-25-2019 at 12:33 PM.
#20
Rennlist Member
The RSR wasn't delivered any lower than a 3.6RS so there are many options since they didn't come this low. The supercups allowed you to go as low as you want but the race teams all had different perspectives on what worked best , not that many raced with them that low. I might sell my H&R Supercups (NLA) in the future since i am considering upgrading to MCS 3 or 4 way for my track build. Although with the spring rates of 455 and 650 I found them to be unbearable on any rough road surface. Never driven on these I am assuming the springs can be swapped out unlike the supercups which locked you into the single setup.
#21
Rennlist Member
These have shorter bodies and linear springs compared to the regular H&R Streets. They are stiff, especially combined with Pole Positions but not unbearable in my opinion.
#22
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Melbourne, Australia.
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Question guys, when you fit the H&R deep coilovers to 964, do you re use the factory strut tops? The new ones don't come with a strut plate with the 3 captive studs to locate in the body, what am I missing here?
#23
Rennlist Member
Yes, they use the factory strut mounts or you can run aftermarket camber plates.
#24
For a widebody? I am running factory RSR speedlines with a 9.5" ET 57 front and 11ET5 rears with narrow body trailing arms I can fit up to 12's in the rear with narrow body arms. I have never seen anyone successfully fit more than a 10.5 rear with the turbo trailing arms under normal settings without the tire rubbing the trailing arm. Even my 295's on factory 10's would rub the trailing arm a little. What did you need to do to make 11's fit on a wide-body? I tried yeas ago on my 94 turbo and no matter what I did even with H&R supercup deep coil overs and 650 pound springs if I ran so that the tire and wheel arch met it rubbed against the inner fender when driven aggressively.
#25
Rennlist Member
I was speaking about a widebody with stock widebody trailing arms. It's well known you can go wider in the rear with narrow body trailing arms. My setup is the same as it was in the photos in this thread from 2 years ago. I don't track the car but I drive it hard daily. I can confirm that the 11's on the rears do fit and do not rub. But you have to slightly pull the fenders out to get that fitment. Also, I have about 0.25-0.5" of clearance from the trailing arm. I always check for witness marks whenever the wheels are off but have not seen any. With this said, it may not be worth it for most people, and I agree that another 0.5 inches of width is irrelevant in terms of looks or performance. I think the only other way to make the 11s fit without rubbing is with tire selection. I run 285's in the rear. I don't think 295's would fit comfortably. Of course, wheel offset selection is of utmost importance.
Also, for wide body cars with narrow body trailing arms, 12.5" is the largest you can go without rubbing, maybe 12.75". My wheels are 18x12 et10 and they don't rub on the inside, but then I decided to add a 10mm spacer as well which essentially would be the same as having an 18x12.5 wheel with a similar stretch (or lack thereof) on the tire size.
Mr. Wolfe
#26
Rennlist Member
I was speaking about a widebody with stock widebody trailing arms. It's well known you can go wider in the rear with narrow body trailing arms. My setup is the same as it was in the photos in this thread from 2 years ago. I don't track the car but I drive it hard daily. I can confirm that the 11's on the rears do fit and do not rub. But you have to slightly pull the fenders out to get that fitment. Also, I have about 0.25-0.5" of clearance from the trailing arm. I always check for witness marks whenever the wheels are off but have not seen any. With this said, it may not be worth it for most people, and I agree that another 0.5 inches of width is irrelevant in terms of looks or performance. I think the only other way to make the 11s fit without rubbing is with tire selection. I run 285's in the rear. I don't think 295's would fit comfortably. Of course, wheel offset selection is of utmost importance.
This has been discussed many times on the turbo forums and the general consensus is 10.5 is the widest you can go with turbo trailing arms. Although we have learned that no two of these cars are the same and can vary so I guess you are one of the lucky ones. I have tried it before on my 94 turbo and anything less than .5" of trailing arm to tire clearance I get rubbing along with rubbing of the inner fender well. Although the right rubbed more than the left. I used blue tape to mask everything and it was badly torn up after some hard driving. Depending on the tire shoulder can make a huge difference as well. The Michelins I run seem to have more of a square shoulder than most tires. I also run around 1.3 degrees camber on my street cars.
#28
Rennlist Member
Early version, the workshop manual indicates mount was changed for the 1991 model year. I would suggest, take a picture of your current rear top mounts to check. My 1990 has early mounts
#30
Instructor
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911...IAAOSwP~tW2Lhb
There were others who made these years ago, but I believe most of them stopped producing the adapters.