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Routing damper remote canisters into the cabin

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Old 09-15-2016, 02:11 AM
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Matt Andrews
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Default Routing damper remote canisters into the cabin

As the title says. I'm wondering how people route mote canisters into the front boot or the rears into the cabin without having to cut huge holes in the body? I'd prefer not to buy quick releases, but will if it helps me avoid cutting 2" diameter holes...
Old 09-15-2016, 02:19 AM
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Spyerx
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Dry break connection.
In the front you should be able to just notch the upright area for the tubing. For the rears I would not cut a hole. Just mount in engine bay. If you had a dry break you could just drill a small hole.
Old 09-15-2016, 07:47 AM
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porsche mania
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If you don't want to notch the front shock tower there are plenty of rubber bungs in the inner wings that can be removed to mount the canisters in the frunk, they're only big enough to get the hose through so you will have to let the gas out, reconnect and recharge. It's only nitrogen and most motorbike shops will have the gear to do it.Name:  20160331_124159_zpsceqagvss.jpg
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For the rears I couldn't find a way to get them into the back without chopping so I could mount them on the cage so fed them up by the engine tins and into the engine bay.
Old 09-15-2016, 11:33 AM
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Matt Andrews
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thanks guys. Dry break is the "best" solution. Just trying to not spend the extra grand.

Porsche Mania - you have a moton set up with the old banjo bolts. You managed to avoid additional oil seepage when you disconnected / recharged the nitrogen? Is it a needle valve or another fitting to charge them?
Old 09-15-2016, 11:45 AM
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porsche mania
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Originally Posted by Matt Andrews
thanks guys. Dry break is the "best" solution. Just trying to not spend the extra grand.

Porsche Mania - you have a moton set up with the old banjo bolts. You managed to avoid additional oil seepage when you disconnected / recharged the nitrogen? Is it a needle valve or another fitting to charge them?
As long as you let the nitrogen out before you disconnect there was virtually no oil loss, as for charging the shocks there is a schraeder valve on the end of the canister. I considered the dry breaks but the only time they will come off the car is for service and they will be deflated then anyway. They are no different to a motorbike rear shock accept the canister is on a hose. I'd only spend the money if you want the rear canisters inside the car, there was no way I was cutting 2 inch holes in the back! Obviously if the shop you go to to has a long hose for recharging then you only need two 12mm holes in the back and just split the lines. They are fine to drive with no gas in, I was just told to only drive the minimum amount to get them recharged after fitting.



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