jellonailer

Changing my valve cover gaskets and in my haste did not look at how the old ones were installed and pulled everything apart.

It looks obvious to me that the "flat, with serrations" surface goes out towards engine and the crowned portion goes into the cover. But with my experience with Porsche - you just never know.

Also, the other obvious thing is to look and see if they are reversible meaning you can install wrong, except I already installed the other side, flat side to engine so I can't compare.

Lot's of talk about dry vs oiled install, seems about 50/50.

Lastly, saw a post that PET calls for Bronze RTV sealant that a few have done. I think on the lowers. Anyone do that?

Thanks

Rocket Rob

I put the flat with serrations towards the center of the engine too. I install them dry and do not have leaks. The key is to make sure everything is clean and dry and that you torque the covers evenly to the 84 in-pounds of torque.

jellonailer

Thanks Rob.

How clean? Media blast clean the grooves surfaces or brake cleaner/aircraft stripper clean on the cover grooves. I would think the flat/serrated does all the work and the smooth cam surface is the real seal that does all the work. Cover groove simply apply the pressure to the sealing surface.

Rocket Rob

I use a solvent based parts washer to clean the the covers overall. I then use a rag with brake cleaner to wipe down the heads before installing.

dlpalumbo

I'm about to do same job as I have 1 lower bank that is leaking after top end rebuild. Tech did not use sealant. I looked at pelican's gasket page and they recommended using sealant on valve cover, not on head surface.

I looked through shop manual and Adrian's book and could find no specific instructions besides the torque spec.

Can anyone provide a recommended approach to the use of the sealant. For example one fellow said you apply the sealant (in this case Curil T) let it dry and then install.

Just so many ways to go wrong.

Is there a preferred pattern to tightening? e.g., center - outwards.

By the way, I found these torque limiting wrenches that are small enough to go anywhere you can get your hand. Look at protorquetools.com website under preset torque wrenches.

tbennett017

I have never used sealant. Only wrist tight (7 ft lbs.) with newish gaskets. No drips.

FeralComprehension

I use Hylomar, every time. Pretty sure I put the serrations out, but my recollector is known to be a little overtaxed.

dlpalumbo

I see 2 variants of hylomar on amazon, 'blue' and 'polyurethane sealant'.

Which do you recommend?

FeralComprehension

I have Blue.

I like this product, it gets gummy but will not harden. I got a great tip for paper gaskets once from some motorcycle guys. Use RTV on one side of a paper gasket and Hylomar on another and your paper gasket comes apart easily and can be reused. It works very well for things like stator covers.

Mixter

This is what I do and have no leaks.

DobermanDad

Are OEM gaskets the way to go?

I have a set of OEM gaskets I've had for awhile and want to do my valve clearances and replace my covers soon.

Rocket Rob

Yes, I use the OEM gasket sets. I buy a bunch of sets from Sunset, so I always have them available if/when needed.

DobermanDad

Cool, thanks man!

gmgracing

My knowledge extends from racing vintage bmw's, but I always keep a little Dirko on hand for this kind of thing (Red or Black, just depends on heat range). Most guys would have a tube of two in their race boxes.

Just be sure not to over tighten (that 7 ft/lb number sounds kosher).