Suspension time
#1
Suspension time
Hi guys, it's time to think about changing suspension in my car, it's a 1991 car. The ride height of the car it's something I would like to keep, it is really low, so I was thinking on bilStein PSS10, or B6HD with which springs??
What would keep my car ride height without loosing too much comfort?
I'll try to post a photo....it would be great if you posted some examples for me to see.
Thanks
What would keep my car ride height without loosing too much comfort?
I'll try to post a photo....it would be great if you posted some examples for me to see.
Thanks
#2
Rennlist Member
Read "suspension madness" and "transformation" threads.
#4
Race Car
I kind of agree, that good struts and springs are important.
But that said. In these cars, until you get rid of the slop everywhere else...no reason to spend a ton of money.
But that said. In these cars, until you get rid of the slop everywhere else...no reason to spend a ton of money.
#5
I recommend the PSS10s. They're the only suspension mod I have put into my C4 and it seems to have made any under steer nonexistent. Also, they're fantastic quality and well worth the money IMO. Just make sure you get the right version for your model year
Part #s:
48-132626 (89-90)
48-132633 (1991-1994)
Attachment 1044496
Part #s:
48-132626 (89-90)
48-132633 (1991-1994)
Attachment 1044496
#7
I went the econo- route on my '90 C2 and love the ride.
100% street use; no desire or need for adjustability.
Bilstein HD's with H&R red (Turbo fitment) springs. Car looks aggressively low without being too slammed. Ride is firm but compliant when it has to be.
100% street use; no desire or need for adjustability.
Bilstein HD's with H&R red (Turbo fitment) springs. Car looks aggressively low without being too slammed. Ride is firm but compliant when it has to be.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Depends what your budget is. The cheapest and best mod for suspension would be the Bilstien HD with H&R reds or greens. Fantastic driving experience, very comfortable and comparable to stock but when you push it hard it will give you what you need. Huge transformation on my old 89 C4. Love them on my C2. If your budget can be extended... go with KWV3's which is my next upgrade this summer and i will be selling my bilstien and H&R greens.
H&R reds are more stiffer than the greens. Greens are a great balance for daily driving and work very well when pushing it into the corners. And the bilstiens are fully adjustable as said above.
Jeff
H&R reds are more stiffer than the greens. Greens are a great balance for daily driving and work very well when pushing it into the corners. And the bilstiens are fully adjustable as said above.
Jeff
#9
Thanks guys! KW are great but hard to find in Europe...bilStein are easier...will the pss10 make the ride too hard? Will the HD + springs make the same height as I have it right now?
Goughary, what do you mean about getting rid of the slop?...
Thanks guys!
Goughary, what do you mean about getting rid of the slop?...
Thanks guys!
#10
Race Car
The slop is in all the points of contact with the triangle. Top hats, ball joints, and control arm bushings. ( and then end links and tie rods obv)
And in the rear, same thing. Trailing arm bushings, spring plate bushings, and top hats. And then the bottom bushing on the strut and end links...
If you want a gold street setup. Go with bilstein HD and h+r springs, and then take the rest of the budget and work on the slip. Simply getting stiffer struts or springs doesn't do yo has much good. If the budget is there, do the slop and switch to bilstein pss10. And of the budget is still there and you are going to track the car, go farher w the struts.
As to sway bars. Seat bars are about balance, for the most part. I like for my street car, stuff swaybars. And we are limited a bit in terms of sizes available. But I like the h+r bars we are using on the C4. They seem to be very well balanced with our current setup. If you like softer swaybars, on a C4, keep the oem front and switch to a C2 oem rear bar. And on a C2, do the opposite. This makes a world of difference balancing the cars.
Back to slip. Think of the suspension as a triangular prism. If you add load to any point, if it stays where it is, the shape of the prism doesn't change, i.e. Your alignment. If you add load and any one or more points move, your alignment moves and changes. Now think about those points bouncing around in a corner and how much alignment change you go through in a given corner when you are driving hard...you want those points of contract to stay where they are supposed to be. Where you tell them to be...
The issue here is the compromise. If it's a street car, you don't want it to feel like a racecar. If it's a racecar, it will feel like a rattle box from hell, but the compromise is that your lap times will be better. On the street, you want softer, but where the "too soft" line is, is up to you.
And in the rear, same thing. Trailing arm bushings, spring plate bushings, and top hats. And then the bottom bushing on the strut and end links...
If you want a gold street setup. Go with bilstein HD and h+r springs, and then take the rest of the budget and work on the slip. Simply getting stiffer struts or springs doesn't do yo has much good. If the budget is there, do the slop and switch to bilstein pss10. And of the budget is still there and you are going to track the car, go farher w the struts.
As to sway bars. Seat bars are about balance, for the most part. I like for my street car, stuff swaybars. And we are limited a bit in terms of sizes available. But I like the h+r bars we are using on the C4. They seem to be very well balanced with our current setup. If you like softer swaybars, on a C4, keep the oem front and switch to a C2 oem rear bar. And on a C2, do the opposite. This makes a world of difference balancing the cars.
Back to slip. Think of the suspension as a triangular prism. If you add load to any point, if it stays where it is, the shape of the prism doesn't change, i.e. Your alignment. If you add load and any one or more points move, your alignment moves and changes. Now think about those points bouncing around in a corner and how much alignment change you go through in a given corner when you are driving hard...you want those points of contract to stay where they are supposed to be. Where you tell them to be...
The issue here is the compromise. If it's a street car, you don't want it to feel like a racecar. If it's a racecar, it will feel like a rattle box from hell, but the compromise is that your lap times will be better. On the street, you want softer, but where the "too soft" line is, is up to you.
#11
Three Wheelin'
You will be able to get as low and a touch lower than RS ride height with the Bilstien HD and H&R green or H&R reds.
Jeff
#12
Rennlist Member
#13
Rennlist Member
stage 1 - 'better' dampers and springs - and a proper alignment, address badly worn rubber bushings
stage 2 - 'better' dampers and springs, top hats F/R, sway bars F/R, address badly worn rubber bushings
Stage 3 - good dampers, monoball everything, sways, etc.
There really isn't a middle ground with these, eventually good dampers are hindered due to slop in the suspension.
#14
Rennlist Member